could someone help me? I have a 99 SE 55600miles on it. bought from nissan dealer about a month ago, problem that has arose is the gauge cluster has a tendency 2 stick ie: speedo goes to 45 or drops to zero,tach shoots to 3500-4000 & sticks or drops to zero, gas goes to full or drops to empty, and temp gauge will peg at hot or drop to cold. It only seems to do it when 80+ degrees out and dosnt do it all the time. took to dealer and they had it about a week trying to duplicate problem,did it 1 time very breifly 4 them. they had dash out,checked all wiring,found nothing. thought it was fixed,but last week was in the 70's. they nor i have been able to find anything anywhere about this problem. Any help or ides is much needed and appriciated.

 

Hey. you mean to tell me no on has any ideas at all? any help is much needed,this problem is driving me crazy.

 

To calibrate, do the following:
(i) Place your key in the ignition and hold in the odometer button.
(ii) Turn the electrical system on while holding the button in.
(iii) Release the button and wait one second.
(iv) Press the button three times. On the third press, HOLD THE BUTTON IN. If the digital readout reads '8' across the board, you are in luck. Otherwise, remove the key and repeat STEPS 9i - 9iii.
(v) You are now in calibration mode. Record where the needles lie. You can hold the button in for as long as you wish to take measurements.

Try that.

 

I may be misunderstanding u or u may be misunderstanding me but the problem w/gauges seems to happen while driving. Seems that whenever it happens, if you cut the car off and let it cool 4 a bit gauges seem to reset themselves, then they will work properly till after a bit i guesswhen everthing gets hot and like i said it only seems to happen when it's 80+degrees out and there's no set time frame it does it in. It just radomly seems to happen.

 

Maybe you should take them apart and clean them to make sure nothing is there.

 

Did you not get a short warranty when you bought the car? I bought my '96 from a dealer two years ago and they still gave me a month or two warranty on it.

 

i've bought 4 brand new cars in the last 10 yrs and this 1 used car from the same dealer so they "treat me right" by r&r rack/pinion unit,new belts,new air filter,and trying to trouble shoot dash problem w/no cost to me so far. could it be a relay somewhere or could there be a problem w/the computerboard in the gauges or does anyone know if there are relays or computerboard for gauges?

 

I don't think there are any relays. 98-99 Cluster will work so you can start a search on ebay if you would like or the 4th gen forsale forum.

 

hoping that if dealer cant figure out they will just replace gauges. b nice if they did this at their cost w/ no cost to me.

 

unless its a TSB for it then they wont.

 

i have kinda the same problem witn my tach. but on mine its only the rpm i have problem with the rest is fine. when i m driving my rpm will go to 3000 or 4000 and drop to 0 and it goes up nad down really really fast like maybe 30 times in 30 secs. its worst when i push cruise on 120, 130. i posted the problem on the noobies section but didnt get much help.

 

sorry guys i forgot to mention mine is a 95 gxe.

 

I had the same issue with the tach jumping around, except I also had intermittent cruise control malfunctions and the CEL light was on with P0500 and P0600 codes. Just replaced the cluster with an ebay one on Friday, so hopefully the issue is fixed.

 

dont know if this problem affects cruise control. seems to happen b4 getting on hwy. also it has never happened n the morn.

 

finally got gauges to cause check eng light to come on. dealer ran dia. on car(no charge to me) and found out its got a speed sensor code showing,so dealer is ordering me a new printed circuit board 4 me. hopefully it will remedy problem w/gauges,we'er hoping.

 

I've got a similar problem... only with the tach though. If I'm going highway speed and the engine is warm, the tach will stick at 2,500 or 3,000 area and not drop or rise unless I either really dip into the throttle (and then it climbs only slightly) or tap the brakes (then it drops down to normal idle rpm).

Really odd, and I only started noticing it last week. Didn't think about the temperature but last week was when it started cracking the upper 80's here in northern NJ. Any other ideas on what causes this and how to resolve it??

Forgot to add: 97 GLE, autotragic, 88k miles.

 

way i caused my ck eng light 2 come on is gauges stuck and i tried to c if my cc worked & it didnt,but it did cause the ck eng lt to come on so dealer had way to check codes. does ur cc work with tach stuck?

 

I'd hate to bring up a thread from last june but I have this same problem with my 99 Maxima. All my guages will just cut out and get wierd symbols on my digital readout. Could it just be a speed sensor? My cruise control works all the time. I just want this fixed! It's so frustrating to not know how fast you're going. Oh and my gauges will do it at any temperature. I live in Michigan so it's about 20 outside. They'll do it no matter what. PLEASE HELP ME!

 

So noone knows what this is?

 

Same thing happen to my buddies 00(similar cluster but not exactly swap in), you need a new cluster in short.

 

Two things (maybe long shots) but worth checking before purchasing a new cluster. 1) Ignition switch provides 12VDC to the cluster circuit. If the switch was bad and the voltage provided to the cluster was decreased it could cause this problem. For what it's worth try playing with the ignition switch when the problem occurs. Maybe even consider changing the ignition switch, again it's a long shot but much cheaper then a new cluster. 2) Pull the cluster out according to the FSM it's two parts with some flexible connector. Take the cluster out and reconnect all the connectors including the front to back of the cluster. A bad connection could possibly cause this type of problem. I have never pulled the cluster so I don't know exactly what it looks like but I would try this.


I'm not saying it's not the cluster causing your problem but those are worth checking.

 

The main connector I would be concerned with is called the FPC or flexible printed circuit board connector it is located at the top of the cluster. If you have access to the FSM there is a procedure in the EL section that helps diagnose cluster problems.

 

go to the stealership if all ideas failed.

 

Yea I'll have to give it a try. All the info helps. Thanks a lot everyone. I'll let you know what happens but it's hard to say when it'll possibly cut out again.

 

Do you think they'd charge me to have a look at it?

 

Why not ask SButler if he got his fixede, and what the problem turned out to be . . . instead of opening an old thread.