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gear position switch removal

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Old Jun 1, 2007 | 09:11 AM
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gear position switch removal

I was trying to change my tranny fluid (manual) and ended up slightly rounding off the bolt that is right by the cross member. Wanting to avoid more issues with this, I decided to move to the gear position switch that is right on the tranny. The FSM seems to talk about removing the one bolt that holds it to the tranny and just pull it out. Well, I tried doing that and ended up cracking the ceramic part of the switch right where the bolt goes it so now it definitely has to come out.

Any one else run into this? Any tips on this besides taking a hammer and cracking the entire thing to bits?!
Old Jun 1, 2007 | 10:23 AM
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Use a needle nose plier, on the two holes in the middle recessed section of the sensor, then pull straight out gently.
Old Jun 1, 2007 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by DandyMax
Use a needle nose plier, on the two holes in the middle recessed section of the sensor, then pull straight out gently.
Thanks Dandy! Let me go try that and see how it goes..
Old Jun 4, 2007 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by DandyMax
Use a needle nose plier, on the two holes in the middle recessed section of the sensor, then pull straight out gently.
alright, so the pliers thing did not work. The edges keep cracking. This thing is stuck in there like theres no tomorrow Any more ideas people? As much as I dont like it, I might have to take it into a shop and have them do everything..
Old Jun 4, 2007 | 03:37 PM
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are you able to get a small flat screwdriver in there and pry it out? if you can, that may do the trick, if not ... well, maybe a gun would work?!? lol

not that i condone my own actions, but i have in the past actually glued something to a part (like a nut that you can get a good hold of) let it dry, then pulled the part like that. i just did what i needed to for the job to be done. btw ... the nut is still on my g/f's car too ... if i recall right, i used either JB weld, or epoxy, but i don't recall which, sorry.


g'luck .. hope ya don't need to take it to the shop, not only will they get a good LOL over it, they will charge you for your mistake too ...
Old Jun 4, 2007 | 06:01 PM
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PM sent, don't worry, I won't charge you much or laugh at you, unless you have a dirty little secret..... like lighted washer nozzles, or chrome wipers, then I'll laugh at you.
Old Jun 5, 2007 | 02:42 AM
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Well it's trash now so order another one ($25) and don't take it out until the new one arrives. Then work on rotating it in the bore and finally pull like mad on the wiring.

Dave
Old Jun 5, 2007 | 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by KRRZ350
PM sent, don't worry, I won't charge you much or laugh at you, unless you have a dirty little secret..... like lighted washer nozzles, or chrome wipers, then I'll laugh at you.


LOL
Old Jun 5, 2007 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by JtzMax
are you able to get a small flat screwdriver in there and pry it out? if you can, that may do the trick, if not ... well, maybe a gun would work?!? lol

not that i condone my own actions, but i have in the past actually glued something to a part (like a nut that you can get a good hold of) let it dry, then pulled the part like that. i just did what i needed to for the job to be done. btw ... the nut is still on my g/f's car too ... if i recall right, i used either JB weld, or epoxy, but i don't recall which, sorry.


g'luck .. hope ya don't need to take it to the shop, not only will they get a good LOL over it, they will charge you for your mistake too ...

Dont I know that!! Yeah, I tried the flat head screw driver thing and its like it come out a little bit and then when you let go, it just snaps back. I'm starting to think that its the stupid o ring stuck to something. That's the only thing that makes sense- I looked at the FSM and both it and the Haynes manual say to just slide it out once you take the bolt off...
Old Jun 5, 2007 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by KRRZ350
PM sent, don't worry, I won't charge you much or laugh at you, unless you have a dirty little secret..... like lighted washer nozzles, or chrome wipers, then I'll laugh at you.

too funny man, too funny i havent succumed to that bug just yet!
Old Jun 5, 2007 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Well it's trash now so order another one ($25) and don't take it out until the new one arrives. Then work on rotating it in the bore and finally pull like mad on the wiring.

Dave

I actually have a new one sitting right next to me! That's what I was thinking about, maybe twist it a bit and pull out but I dont want break something and have it fall inside, then I'd really be screwed!!
Old Jun 5, 2007 | 08:08 PM
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i'm going to try KRRZ350's suggestion tomorrow soon as I get off work to stick a flat head around a few different places and tryand get some leverage. Its never easy ...I'll keep everyone updated....
Old Jun 6, 2007 | 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by cydrive
i'm going to try KRRZ350's suggestion tomorrow soon as I get off work to stick a flat head around a few different places and tryand get some leverage. Its never easy ...I'll keep everyone updated....
If it's as brittle as it sounds like it is, doing that will only crack the lipped edge in pieces. I'm surprised the pliers didn't work for you, did you pull straight out without twisting or wiggling the pliers? I've had a brittle sensor issue before also, cracked edges etc but the pliers worked in the middle, as long as you don't twist.
Old Jun 6, 2007 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by DandyMax
If it's as brittle as it sounds like it is, doing that will only crack the lipped edge in pieces. I'm surprised the pliers didn't work for you, did you pull straight out without twisting or wiggling the pliers? I've had a brittle sensor issue before also, cracked edges etc but the pliers worked in the middle, as long as you don't twist.
Yeah, I did. Plier in between and tried to pull straight out. Its definitely brittle. Like I mentioned before I highly suspect the o-ring in there. I think if I can somehow get a bit of leverage, get some lubricant in there as suggested and let it soak for a bit, we should be o.k. My first thought once it started breaking off was "I cant believe nissan o.k'd this material for something this sensitive" Its probably the only thing that works well though..
Old Jun 10, 2007 | 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by cydrive
Yeah, I did. Plier in between and tried to pull straight out. Its definitely brittle. Like I mentioned before I highly suspect the o-ring in there. I think if I can somehow get a bit of leverage, get some lubricant in there as suggested and let it soak for a bit, we should be o.k. My first thought once it started breaking off was "I cant believe nissan o.k'd this material for something this sensitive" Its probably the only thing that works well though..
Sorry fellas, couldnt quite get to it on Tuesday. I got back from a drive today, let her cool for about 20 min (not enough really but it might have helped) got under, stuck a flat head screw driver in there and sprayed some pb blaster. Let it soak for oh, 30 sec or so and stuck that screw driver in there again. This time it actually started moving as an entire piece so I got another flat head, stuck it in on the other side and just kept jimmying. Worked like a charm!! I got enough to come out and then it was just a matter of pulling it out. I have a new sensor in there now, some new redline MTL so we're good for another 25k!!

Thanks fellas!!....


side note, I noticed that I have quite a bit of rust on the radiator support- right where the cross member bolts on to it. Off to get some research done on that...
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