vnphantom

I was looking at my brake yesterday and I have just a few questions.

The brake looks like it has some compound that sticks the brake pad to the caliper. How would you remove the caliper if it's sticking like that?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Most likely what you're seeing is the anti-squeal compound on the back of the brake pad. It's not a major adhesive by any means. May require some prying with a screwdriver, or a tap with a rubber mallet, but should be no problem.

vnphantom

I was guessing it's the anti-squeal compound too. I kind of see it flaking off. It looks like a clear red compound.

Anyhow, I'm going to look into it today. Should I engage parking brake to change the front brakes?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You can, no real need after it's up on stands though.

vnphantom

Ok, so last night, I tried to change my front brake pads. After removing the upper and lower caliper bolt, I tried to slide the caliper out, but it doesn't move. I can jiggle it a little, but I can't move it out to remove the pad.

Could it be the anti-squeal compound? Should I try to cut the compound off with a thin knife, or a thin hacksaw blade?

vnphantom

Bump, any suggestion? I wanna tackle this job again sometime tonight, after work.

mge2790

you need to open up the valve located right behind the calipers and push in the cylinder that is pushing on the pads (just push the pads with a screw driver or something) and you should have enough clearance to take the brakes off. remember it is POSSIBLE but not always definate that you will get an airbubble in your brake lines after you open that valve and push the breaks, so if you havent ever blead your brakes i would suggest doing it, 1. because it will eliminate the chance of a bubble, and 2. because you probably need new brake fluid anyways.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

No need to open up the bleeder, that's just adding a step that can very well get air in your lines (although a quick bleed would take care of it).

Sometimes a rotor will get a lip on the edge that keeps the pads from coming off...you can either take a screwdriver and pry the caliper off using the torque member as a fulcrum point, or as mge2790 said, use a screwdriver to compress the piston in a little. Opening the bleeder makes it a bit easier, but if you weren't planning on bleeding the brakes anyway, rather unnecessary. You only need to move the piston in not even an 1/8th of an inch to clear the lip on the rotor, if there is one.

It also could very well just be the anti-squeal compound on the pads. Either way, prying the caliper off will work. Pretty safe, too, as long as you only pry on the body of it, never around the piston or piston seal.

If you need more help, hit me up on AIM or Y!.

vnphantom

In the Haynes, they use a C-clamp to compress the piston in ... I had a C-clamp but it wasn't large enough. I might pay a visit to Advanced Auto to trade for a bigger one.

Thanks yall.