For those who have done the TC tensioner
#41
Was the warm rattle there initially or only after installing the tensioner? The dealer parts guys don't know ****, they just told you it's right because that's what there computer tells them, and I'm sure you got the superceded new style one correct? What part # was on the package, and did it come with a new guide as well?
You are right, they’ll tell you anything as long as you pay.
What really bothers me is that they are probably in an office on a computer and have no access check anything.
The tensioner i got was part number 13070-31U0A.
I made a correction to entry #37 above.
It did not come with a timing chain guide
Yes, the it rattle on cold almost everyday. After I replaced the o-ring, it rattled the first time I started the car but was ok after that. I ran errands all day yesterday and all was ok.
look at the link to my web site. go to page 2.
Last edited by faridric; 01-15-2008 at 07:43 AM.
#42
Hey guys.
Thanks for the quick responses.
The part numbers I had the GF order were:
Tensioner 13070-31U0A and gasket 13079-31U00 (as posted by faridric).
Just to clarify a few things and give a brief history:
The GF's 1995 Maxima needed a water pump, and I finally had the opportunity to do it just before New Years. I replaced the pump per the instructions on this site. All seemed to go pretty well really.
Upon startup, we experienced the expected initial rattle. For the most part, it went away after a few minutes at 2000 RPM), but some rattle remained. However, at times (fairly random I would say), it seemed to rattle pretty bad, in fact, sometimes it sounded more like the chain was actually riding/rubbing on the top front portion of the timing chain cover (pretty damn unnerving I have to say).
A few extra bits of info:
I should mention that she has pointed out the cool morning startup rattle before we ever did the water pump. I do remember hearing it a few times, but it was not really THAT bad (but not right nonetheless).
I should also mention that I did find some galding/wear marks on the piston of the original tensioner. It seemed that depending on where the piston was rotated in the tensioner, it could actually get stuck in the retracted position. This discovery is what made me think it may need a new tensioner (but at the time, had to button it all up with the original tensioner as I had to get her back on the road for the following work week). When the rattle continued, I delved deeper into these forums and found this thread (hence the ordering of the parts I listed above).
All I can think is that when replacing the water pump, I disturbed the position of the piston in the tensioner, and further aggravated an existing problem.
When the rattle (just as bad as ever) was still there after installing the new tensioner and gasket, I thought I'd better ask you guys what you thought.
I have done some searching here, but I realize I should probably do a bit more.
As I was writing this post, My GF e-mailed me to say that she did not "notice" the rattle this morning (it is 27 F here in Cincinnati today AND the car sat all day yesterday without being started).
I'm now wondering if it just took that long to bleed out the tensioner.
Well...here's to hoping. I am keeping my fingers crossed.
I may swing by her house after work to give a listen, and will report back afterward.
Thanks again.
Peace,
Dan
Thanks for the quick responses.
The part numbers I had the GF order were:
Tensioner 13070-31U0A and gasket 13079-31U00 (as posted by faridric).
Just to clarify a few things and give a brief history:
The GF's 1995 Maxima needed a water pump, and I finally had the opportunity to do it just before New Years. I replaced the pump per the instructions on this site. All seemed to go pretty well really.
Upon startup, we experienced the expected initial rattle. For the most part, it went away after a few minutes at 2000 RPM), but some rattle remained. However, at times (fairly random I would say), it seemed to rattle pretty bad, in fact, sometimes it sounded more like the chain was actually riding/rubbing on the top front portion of the timing chain cover (pretty damn unnerving I have to say).
A few extra bits of info:
I should mention that she has pointed out the cool morning startup rattle before we ever did the water pump. I do remember hearing it a few times, but it was not really THAT bad (but not right nonetheless).
I should also mention that I did find some galding/wear marks on the piston of the original tensioner. It seemed that depending on where the piston was rotated in the tensioner, it could actually get stuck in the retracted position. This discovery is what made me think it may need a new tensioner (but at the time, had to button it all up with the original tensioner as I had to get her back on the road for the following work week). When the rattle continued, I delved deeper into these forums and found this thread (hence the ordering of the parts I listed above).
All I can think is that when replacing the water pump, I disturbed the position of the piston in the tensioner, and further aggravated an existing problem.
When the rattle (just as bad as ever) was still there after installing the new tensioner and gasket, I thought I'd better ask you guys what you thought.
I have done some searching here, but I realize I should probably do a bit more.
As I was writing this post, My GF e-mailed me to say that she did not "notice" the rattle this morning (it is 27 F here in Cincinnati today AND the car sat all day yesterday without being started).
I'm now wondering if it just took that long to bleed out the tensioner.
Well...here's to hoping. I am keeping my fingers crossed.
I may swing by her house after work to give a listen, and will report back afterward.
Thanks again.
Peace,
Dan
#44
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
By any chance was it making a very loud screeching sound? Mine made that off and on for about a week after removing my timing cover in-car to correct timing that had jumped a tooth, and I also replaced the entire tensioner/guide with the one that comes as a kit. It eventually went away, and never came back, I always thought it was the front crank pulley screeching against the cover, but the first couple times I heard it I was expecting the motor to not last over 500 miles. Hummm, weird.
#45
Actually, it did screech on startup, but it was just a belt that needed tightening (sure took more than what I thought it would take to stop the squeal, almost like the alternator was too hard to turn or something).
Anyway:
This sounded like chain rattle on aluminum, which is something I am pretty used to (I have been working on packaging machinery for years and years).
She reported last night after work that she really did not hear it, but had to admit she was cold and in a hurry, so she did not actually pop the hood.
I will be over there tonight and will listen more closely.
Peace
Anyway:
This sounded like chain rattle on aluminum, which is something I am pretty used to (I have been working on packaging machinery for years and years).
She reported last night after work that she really did not hear it, but had to admit she was cold and in a hurry, so she did not actually pop the hood.
I will be over there tonight and will listen more closely.
Peace
#46
Update:
She said there was a slight rattle this morning.
I'm wondering if it might be worth looking into putting the guts of the new tensioner (spring, piston, o-ring, etc.) into the old (but cleaned up) casting/housing of the old tensioner.
This would provide the original geometry of tensioner and guide, but with new components.
Being that the job really does not take that long, it seems that it may be worth looking into...dunno...
She said there was a slight rattle this morning.
I'm wondering if it might be worth looking into putting the guts of the new tensioner (spring, piston, o-ring, etc.) into the old (but cleaned up) casting/housing of the old tensioner.
This would provide the original geometry of tensioner and guide, but with new components.
Being that the job really does not take that long, it seems that it may be worth looking into...dunno...
Last edited by Dan Erickson; 01-15-2008 at 07:29 AM.
#48
If it's not too terribly bad when I listen to it tonight, I may just do that and see if it gets any better.
#50
Well...She came over last night so I could have another look at tensioner (as well as investigate a burning oil type smell), but there was no noise at all.
Obviously I did not hear it under a cold start situation, but at least it's not doing it anymore when warm.
I will try to be there when she first starts it in the coming days.
Obviously I did not hear it under a cold start situation, but at least it's not doing it anymore when warm.
I will try to be there when she first starts it in the coming days.
#51
Tensioner side effects
Hi, I have a 99 Max and on cold night, it's making an horrible noise from around the timing chain but even worst, its cranking but does not wanna start... Most of the time i drain the battery, do you thing i could have a bad timing due to the tensionner and has a hard time gettind it to start? But if i can make it to start, evererything is ok 'till next start... Montreal in the winter, lots of cold mornings! Any ideas?
#52
Have you tried any sort of aftermarket block heater to help keep it warm on those extremely cold nights?
It may help the cold start problem.
From the sound of it, you do need to replace the tensioner (due to the rattle), but the cold start is likely a different issue.
Sorry I can't help more...New here myself.
Peace
#54
Chain tensioner and belts replacement today
Hi guys, well I did the belts and chain tensioner today. I followed your excellent step by step procedures with photos and it all worked out as planned, mostly. So far so good, the rattling noise went away after about 2 to 3 minutes. I cut the PS belt off and walked the new one on, slick as can be. The serpentine also no problem. The chain noise started after I had the water pump replaced by a local auto repair. He was also supposed to replace the belts but didn't.
Just want to relate, though, that I nearly got myself in trouble by not following the chain tensioner removal procedure as described. I tried to get the little piston pushed back in the old tensioner before I removed it as per the warning. But I started losing patience when I couldn't get it to go. SO, I thought, I should be able to keep the piston and spring from coming out just by getting my finger over it as I remove it. Well, as soon as I removed the last of the two bolts (the top one) I immediately heard metal parts ejecting into, and dropping down into the timing chain case! NOOOO!!! How foolish of me!
Well, I suddenly thought about the long, narrow extension magnet I had in the tool box and thought what the hey. What do you think is the possibility of me retrieving both the piston and the spring? Well, it happened, one at a time. And it took me two atempts at the piston which fell back in once. I couldn't believe how large and long that spring was, and the potential damage that could have occurred if it got caught in the chain and sprockets. So, this is just a tip in case you do as I did. There is a possibility of retrieving the parts (totally by feel and luck) if all the planets are lined up correctly and you have an extension magnet. BTW, I have been a member here for several years, but haven't contributed too much. I had to rejoin because it's been too long since I had a pass word. My Max is a '97 SE w/ 5-spd and 125K miles, pretty much stock except for K&N filter and front shock tower support bar.
Bill
Just want to relate, though, that I nearly got myself in trouble by not following the chain tensioner removal procedure as described. I tried to get the little piston pushed back in the old tensioner before I removed it as per the warning. But I started losing patience when I couldn't get it to go. SO, I thought, I should be able to keep the piston and spring from coming out just by getting my finger over it as I remove it. Well, as soon as I removed the last of the two bolts (the top one) I immediately heard metal parts ejecting into, and dropping down into the timing chain case! NOOOO!!! How foolish of me!
Well, I suddenly thought about the long, narrow extension magnet I had in the tool box and thought what the hey. What do you think is the possibility of me retrieving both the piston and the spring? Well, it happened, one at a time. And it took me two atempts at the piston which fell back in once. I couldn't believe how large and long that spring was, and the potential damage that could have occurred if it got caught in the chain and sprockets. So, this is just a tip in case you do as I did. There is a possibility of retrieving the parts (totally by feel and luck) if all the planets are lined up correctly and you have an extension magnet. BTW, I have been a member here for several years, but haven't contributed too much. I had to rejoin because it's been too long since I had a pass word. My Max is a '97 SE w/ 5-spd and 125K miles, pretty much stock except for K&N filter and front shock tower support bar.
Bill
Last edited by larso1; 09-06-2008 at 03:53 PM.
#55
Hi guys, well I did the belts and chain tensioner today. I followed your excellent step by step procedures with photos and it all worked out as planned, mostly. So far so good, the rattling noise went away after about 2 to 3 minutes. I cut the PS belt off and walked the new one on, slick as can be. The serpentine also no problem.
Just want to relate, though, that I nearly got myself in trouble by not following the chain tensioner removal procedure as described. I tried to get the little piston pushed back in the old tensioner before I removed it as per the warning. But I started losing patience when I couldn't get it to go. SO, I thought, I should be able to keep the piston and spring from coming out just by getting my finger over it as I remove it. Well, as soon as I removed the last of the two bolts (the top one) I immediately heard metal parts ejecting into, and dropping down into the timing chain case! NOOOO!!! How foolish of me!
Well, I suddenly thought about the long, narrow extension magnet I had in the tool box and thought what the hey. What do you think is the possibility of me retrieving both the piston and the spring? Well, it happened, one at a time. And it took me two atempts at the piston which fell back in once. I couldn't believe how large and long that spring was, and the potential damage that could have occurred if it got caught in the chain and sprockets. So, this is just a tip in case you do as I did. There is a possibility of retrieving the parts (totally by feel and luck) if all the planets are lined up correctly and you have an extension magnet.
Bill
Just want to relate, though, that I nearly got myself in trouble by not following the chain tensioner removal procedure as described. I tried to get the little piston pushed back in the old tensioner before I removed it as per the warning. But I started losing patience when I couldn't get it to go. SO, I thought, I should be able to keep the piston and spring from coming out just by getting my finger over it as I remove it. Well, as soon as I removed the last of the two bolts (the top one) I immediately heard metal parts ejecting into, and dropping down into the timing chain case! NOOOO!!! How foolish of me!
Well, I suddenly thought about the long, narrow extension magnet I had in the tool box and thought what the hey. What do you think is the possibility of me retrieving both the piston and the spring? Well, it happened, one at a time. And it took me two atempts at the piston which fell back in once. I couldn't believe how large and long that spring was, and the potential damage that could have occurred if it got caught in the chain and sprockets. So, this is just a tip in case you do as I did. There is a possibility of retrieving the parts (totally by feel and luck) if all the planets are lined up correctly and you have an extension magnet.
Bill
Glad to see that you were successful & thanks for posting your experience!
#56
Well, I thought it was timing chain rattle!
Thanks for the welcome Crime! Well as a one-day followup, I am a little embarassed to report that what I thought was a cam chain rattle apparently wasn't. I mean, it all started after the water pump replacement and just made sense. But I have taken her out for a long spin and the short rattle, or vibration, sound is still there when I accellerate within a narrow rpm band, mostly in second gear. It seems to come from forward of the trans tunnel or even within the lower dashboard area. It isn't there in first gear and I can hear it just slightly in third. So, I guess I'll be taking her to my local transmission service and having them take a look/listen......maybe a CV joint, or input shaft bearing, or? Any thoughts on this are very appreciated. It's not bad, just very annoying to me that it's even there. I'm still glad I replaced the tensioner and now won't have to worry about that. It was only $65.00 incl. shipping from a Nissan Co. online in AZ. BTW, I made my own gasket from thin gasket material from NAPA. Thanks again for the welcome.
#57
I just wanted add, the how-to's for the water pump and timing chain tensioner on this forum are excellent. I just finished replacing the pump on my wife's 95 GXE 3 days ago. All seems to be well, except for a small rattle coming from the timing chain area. This rattle is present at all revs, but is inaudible past 20 mph due to wind noise. I did drop the tensioner spring and piston into the timing chain cover, but with good fortune was able to fish them both out with long magnets. There is no misfiring or stumbling from the motor at any RPM, so I assume the timing is not altered. Does anyone know what that noise could be?
#58
I just wanted add, the how-to's for the water pump and timing chain tensioner on this forum are excellent. I just finished replacing the pump on my wife's 95 GXE 3 days ago. All seems to be well, except for a small rattle coming from the timing chain area. This rattle is present at all revs, but is inaudible past 20 mph due to wind noise. I did drop the tensioner spring and piston into the timing chain cover, but with good fortune was able to fish them both out with long magnets. There is no misfiring or stumbling from the motor at any RPM, so I assume the timing is not altered. Does anyone know what that noise could be?
Here are a ton of threads about it as well for more info:
http://www.google.com/#hl=en&source=...3c88006b48283c
One of the greatest things about the .org is that you have tons of answers already here so you may not even have to ask the question. Try searching first and often you'll find your answer without having to wait for others to respond.
Last edited by dan1el; 02-26-2010 at 11:21 AM.
#60
So I'm not the only one
Update:
I'm wondering if it might be worth looking into putting the guts of the new tensioner (spring, piston, o-ring, etc.) into the old (but cleaned up) casting/housing of the old tensioner.
This would provide the original geometry of tensioner and guide, but with new components.
I'm wondering if it might be worth looking into putting the guts of the new tensioner (spring, piston, o-ring, etc.) into the old (but cleaned up) casting/housing of the old tensioner.
This would provide the original geometry of tensioner and guide, but with new components.
I had a very similar situation after doing the water pump/tensioner job myself.
Just last night I swapped back my old tensioner in an attempt to get this ***** back to the way it was. Car ran perfectly and quietly before doing this job and disturbing things. I had the SAME idea - Swap the new guts into the old tensioner casting. I haven't gone there yet, I want to see if simply re-installing the old tensioner will clear things up.
But yeah - you are not alone in your thinking. I also noticed the new tensioner has a beefier spring. I was actually thinking of simply swapping the springs. I'm sure that will help the cold starts after the oil has drained back into the pan.
Also bear in mind that the used tensioner body and plunger will have worn-in together (just like camshaft lobes or lifters in their bores) so it might be best to keep these parts together rather than putting a new plunger in the old body.
#62
^^Ummm, it's VQ30DE used in the I30/4th gen maxima, the VG30DE was used in the Z32 300zx. There are three tensioners, the main one and two for the secondarys, but I couldn't see those causing any noise whatsoever, I mean sure it's possible, but not really.
Was the warm rattle there initially or only after installing the tensioner? The dealer parts guys don't know ****, they just told you it's right because that's what there computer tells them, and I'm sure you got the superceded new style one correct? What part # was on the package, and did it come with a new guide as well?
Was the warm rattle there initially or only after installing the tensioner? The dealer parts guys don't know ****, they just told you it's right because that's what there computer tells them, and I'm sure you got the superceded new style one correct? What part # was on the package, and did it come with a new guide as well?
I have a 1996 Maxima with 126,200 miles. I am the original owner and have done all of the regular maintenance on schedule and repairs on it since it was new. It has good power and it drives and shifts well.
Over the last six months my top side of the timing chain cover area, more at the rear cylinder side, has a whirring/whining sound that has become much worse. It is similar to a recording someone posted on this forum as cam chain noise. I also just removed the PS pump and main serpentine belts to isolate all of those accessories including a new PS pump and all of that is quiet and the noise was still there at the top when I ran the engine.
I changed the main chain lower left tensioner at 120,000 miles, at the same time time that I replaced the leaking water pump:each through the access panels. Both areas are still quiet when I listen with a short piece of garden hose to my ear. So I a thinking that the sound must be from the secondary timing chain?
Can anyone direct me to a good link or you-tube video on how to remove the cover and replace the tensioners? It is possible to just put in the two secondary tensioners without replacing all of the timing chains and gears? I don't want to deal with the cam timing. How long will the cam drive train last with this minimal work? I only drive a few thousand miles a year and as a senior retiree.
Thanks, Steve
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