p0400 : Do I must remove EGR tube from bottom?
#1
p0400 : Do I must remove EGR tube from bottom?
Project for 4th July is to librate maxi from evil axis of P0400 & P0325 codes.
P0400 is for EGR & need EGR tube cleaned. problem is don't have jack stands and I am not sure how to get to lower part of EGR tube, Acually I can't even see where lower part goes?
Can I remove EGR tube from top or I must lift the car and work under it?
P0400 is for EGR & need EGR tube cleaned. problem is don't have jack stands and I am not sure how to get to lower part of EGR tube, Acually I can't even see where lower part goes?
Can I remove EGR tube from top or I must lift the car and work under it?
#2
i'd lift the manifold and the TB so you have plenty of room to work with so you can get in there (without the struggle and cuts) and even remove the hole egr assembly in its entirety, clean everything including the vacuum tubes..
#4
If you pull the TB and the IAC valve that controls the idle you should be able to get to egr tube more easily. I would replace the gaskets for the TB and IAC. That's all I had to pull to replace my EGR valve and tube. This takes a while if you don't have the correct tools.
#5
Originally Posted by midnight0045
i'd lift the manifold and the TB so you have plenty of room to work with so you can get in there (without the struggle and cuts) and even remove the hole egr assembly in its entirety, clean everything including the vacuum tubes..
Thanks
#7
Originally Posted by nitink
I have IACV & TB Removed. Upper EGR tube bolts are out but damn I can't reach lower tubr bolts!!!
Any idea what else to do
Any idea what else to do
#9
Originally Posted by PLUMMAXSE
Not sure what year your Max is, but mine is a 99. Just looked at mine again and the lower nuts that connect the small egr tube should be accessible. One nut on the right is behind the large egr tube which you can get to with a box wrench(14-12mm) and the other one you can use a socket. I did mine and had no trouble getting them out. Looks like the lower egr bolts on the side of the egr valve. The 98-95 max's could have a little more vacuum lines and stuff in the way. What year is your MAX?
#10
Originally Posted by nitink
Mine is 95 and really I can't see where the tube is going, i tried following tube but couldn't locate any bolt
can you post a picture of the area from your 95??
Maybe someone with a 95 can chime in!!
#12
You don't have to lift the car to remover egr. There is a write-up with detailed intructions. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....58751&t=496494
However you do not need to cut the bolts as the write up says just get a 12 mm deep socket and big adjustable wrench to open the large egr pipe. After you open the large egr pipe just press it down a little bit for more access. After that, it should be a pice of cake to remove remaining bolts with 12 mm deep socket. After you remove the tube and clean that carbon rocks out of it, don't forget to clean intake hole where the upper egr tube connects to the intake. Mine had a rock solid build up but I cleaned it somehow hehe. Good luck
However you do not need to cut the bolts as the write up says just get a 12 mm deep socket and big adjustable wrench to open the large egr pipe. After you open the large egr pipe just press it down a little bit for more access. After that, it should be a pice of cake to remove remaining bolts with 12 mm deep socket. After you remove the tube and clean that carbon rocks out of it, don't forget to clean intake hole where the upper egr tube connects to the intake. Mine had a rock solid build up but I cleaned it somehow hehe. Good luck
#15
P0400 could be caused by bad EGRC-Solenoid, too. You can unplug the green connector and test the solenoid. The EGRC-solenoid has three vacuum connectors. Two on one end, and a single one on the other end. The two on one end are blocked from each other when there is no power. If you apply 12V to the solenoid, the air flows between those two. BTW, the solenoid is adjacent to the transmission dipstick. When mine failed, the resistance of the bad coil was about 300 ohms. The replacement one has 34 ohms. Also, when 12V is applied, the good one produces a loud click. Bad one: nothing.
If you have code P0400, better check those easy things first (EGRC-solenoid, EGR valve, BPT valve, vacuum lines, etc.) before spending hours pulling the EGR pipes for cleaning. My car has 168K miles and the EGR pipes were clean, just a thin coat of carbon inside.
If you have code P0400, better check those easy things first (EGRC-solenoid, EGR valve, BPT valve, vacuum lines, etc.) before spending hours pulling the EGR pipes for cleaning. My car has 168K miles and the EGR pipes were clean, just a thin coat of carbon inside.
#16
P0400 could be caused by bad EGRC-Solenoid, too. You can unplug the green connector and test the solenoid. The EGRC-solenoid has three vacuum connectors. Two on one end, and a single one on the other end. The two on one end are blocked from each other when there is no power. If you apply 12V to the solenoid, the air flows between those two. BTW, the solenoid is adjacent to the transmission dipstick. When mine failed, the resistance of the bad coil was about 300 ohms. The replacement one has 34 ohms. Also, when 12V is applied, the good one produces a loud click. Bad one: nothing.
If you have code P0400, better check those easy things first (EGRC-solenoid, EGR valve, BPT valve, vacuum lines, etc.) before spending hours pulling the EGR pipes for cleaning. My car has 168K miles and the EGR pipes were clean, just a thin coat of carbon inside.
If you have code P0400, better check those easy things first (EGRC-solenoid, EGR valve, BPT valve, vacuum lines, etc.) before spending hours pulling the EGR pipes for cleaning. My car has 168K miles and the EGR pipes were clean, just a thin coat of carbon inside.
#18
Sorry, I don't have picture. If you see something nearby with a green connector and matches the description (3 vacuum ports), it is probably the EGR-C solenoid.
A coil resistant of 34 ohms does not guarantee a working one, however. It could be clogged, or vacuum lines could be clogged, too. I took apart the old solenoid and it has all kind of crud inside.
If you activate the EGR valve, either by applying vacuum or pushing up on the G-spot, and the engine stalls, then the pipes are clean.
A coil resistant of 34 ohms does not guarantee a working one, however. It could be clogged, or vacuum lines could be clogged, too. I took apart the old solenoid and it has all kind of crud inside.
If you activate the EGR valve, either by applying vacuum or pushing up on the G-spot, and the engine stalls, then the pipes are clean.
#19
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Help.
#20
Is there a write up with any pics for this egr removal and cleaning of all the tube/ hoses? Mine has got to be clogged up. Bad gas mileage, also have traces of leaks all over the manifold so Im assuming all the manifold gaskets need to be replaced. Got quoted $450 to do this from a mechanic, sound reasonable anyone?
#21
I had a horrible gas mileage such as 12 to 15 miles/gal in the last winter. There wasn't any CEL. I had been to three shops with a nissan dealership. The shops told me three different diagnosises which were a MAF sensor, exhuast manifold(back side), and entire exhaust system leak. I replaced the MAF and exhuast manifold but nothing happened which were still 12 to 15 miles/gal. The funny thing is that the gas mileage is getting better 15 to 20 miles after on April. I didn't do anything except the outside temperature is getting hot. What I want to say do not go to the shop for replacing the exhaust.
I have the same error code now. I replaced the EGR valve by oem, all of the rubber hoses and cleaned the tube up even though the tube was not clogged. I will replace the EGR-C solenoid as soon as possible.
Thanks.
I have the same error code now. I replaced the EGR valve by oem, all of the rubber hoses and cleaned the tube up even though the tube was not clogged. I will replace the EGR-C solenoid as soon as possible.
Thanks.
#22
Well i paid goodyear 153 to do this job for me. We almost had sucess. cel was off for almost the whole day then it came back on. I'm taking it back this friday. I will let you all know what exactly needs to be done. here is the check list so fart
New egr valve(autozone with 2 year warranty)
EGRC soleniod check(done by good year mechanic)
New egr valve(autozone with 2 year warranty)
EGRC soleniod check(done by good year mechanic)
#24
I had a horrible gas mileage such as 12 to 15 miles/gal in the last winter. There wasn't any CEL. I had been to three shops with a nissan dealership. The shops told me three different diagnosises which were a MAF sensor, exhuast manifold(back side), and entire exhaust system leak. I replaced the MAF and exhuast manifold but nothing happened which were still 12 to 15 miles/gal. The funny thing is that the gas mileage is getting better 15 to 20 miles after on April. I didn't do anything except the outside temperature is getting hot. What I want to say do not go to the shop for replacing the exhaust.
I have the same error code now. I replaced the EGR valve by oem, all of the rubber hoses and cleaned the tube up even though the tube was not clogged. I will replace the EGR-C solenoid as soon as possible.
Thanks.
I have the same error code now. I replaced the EGR valve by oem, all of the rubber hoses and cleaned the tube up even though the tube was not clogged. I will replace the EGR-C solenoid as soon as possible.
Thanks.
#25
Ok well my mechanic finally found out the problem. The car was loosing vacuum in the Air duct. here is the part number we took off it 31u17. I'm not sure if that's correct. He even plugged up the tube that goes to the air duct to prove that it was the problem. SO have your mechanic do a vaccum leak test on everything to make sure they are all working. I've already replace my egr valve and the soleniod works.
#26
when you get to the bottom part of the EGR, your going to have to cut off a piece of the stud for the bottom right bolt. your not going to be able to remove the nut w/o cutting off that piece b/c theres a pipe blocking the way...
#27
Well the answer for my problems is definitely the resonator box/air box. Since the mechanic plugged up the hose going to it as a temporary fix the check engine light has not come back on since. I already order it $65 from nissan online.
#28
P0400 Problem
My daughter's 1997 Maxima with 139,000 miles has been throwing a P0400 code for a couple of months now. It also had an O2 sensor code, but replacing the sensor solved that problem. When the dealership looked at it, they indicated the BPT-valve needed replacing and that has since been replaced.
Over the long weekend, I decided to clean the EGR tube as described here hoping that would correct the problem. While I was there, I also cleaned the IAC valve and Throttle body assembly. Both were dirty, but not excessively so. Once I got to the EGR tube, I removed the 4 nuts and worked the tube out after loosening the big pipe to get it out of the way.
I didn't find the clogged pipe as I was expecting and didn't have a clog at the top or bottom parts of the engine where it mounts. I soaked and cleaned the pipe good and went ahead and cleaned both ports where it connects to the engine. Since the throttle body and IAC were removed, it was easy to see all the way through and felt around and didn't see or feel anything that wasn't supposed to be there.
When I began putting it back together, I noticed that the plenum was loose even through the bolts were tightened down as much as they could be (I didn't remove this, but somewhere along the line, someone had). I found a few washers and was able to tighten it down more so that it wouldn't move.
I did get all of the gaskets back in place, no, I didn't replace them with new ones, but they all looked good with no nicks or any tear.
The CEL light has stayed off for 3 days, however, it is back on today. In the process I also checked the EGR valve and it seems to function like it's supposed to; if I press up on it with the engine running, the engine will almost stall.
So what's next? I hate CEL lights and really want this one to go away. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
Anyone?
Over the long weekend, I decided to clean the EGR tube as described here hoping that would correct the problem. While I was there, I also cleaned the IAC valve and Throttle body assembly. Both were dirty, but not excessively so. Once I got to the EGR tube, I removed the 4 nuts and worked the tube out after loosening the big pipe to get it out of the way.
I didn't find the clogged pipe as I was expecting and didn't have a clog at the top or bottom parts of the engine where it mounts. I soaked and cleaned the pipe good and went ahead and cleaned both ports where it connects to the engine. Since the throttle body and IAC were removed, it was easy to see all the way through and felt around and didn't see or feel anything that wasn't supposed to be there.
When I began putting it back together, I noticed that the plenum was loose even through the bolts were tightened down as much as they could be (I didn't remove this, but somewhere along the line, someone had). I found a few washers and was able to tighten it down more so that it wouldn't move.
I did get all of the gaskets back in place, no, I didn't replace them with new ones, but they all looked good with no nicks or any tear.
The CEL light has stayed off for 3 days, however, it is back on today. In the process I also checked the EGR valve and it seems to function like it's supposed to; if I press up on it with the engine running, the engine will almost stall.
So what's next? I hate CEL lights and really want this one to go away. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
Anyone?
Last edited by Dcarlton; 07-09-2008 at 03:47 PM.
#30
#32
I have Max 1999. Unlike model years 95-99, it does not have EGR Solenoid Control as I checked at CourtesyNissan.com website (they provided images of parts). Could some one send me hungtdao@yahoo.com or post an instruction of how to clean the EGR tube. I removed EGR Valve but could not remove the tube that has the top connected to the manifold? Pictures would be nice. Thanks.
#33
Anyone have detailed instruction on removing the egr valve for a 1996 Maxima? You can email them to nicjamesallen@gmail.com. Thanks!
#35
My 1999 Maxima has code P0400. Anyone has detail instructions on how to clean/change the EGR valve &/or tube plz provide w/ pics or simply email me @ jt1199@yahoo.com. Thnx-a-lot...
#36
you should check the how-to section...
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-dummies.html
just did it myself, followed the tutorial and everything went well and the code is gone
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-dummies.html
just did it myself, followed the tutorial and everything went well and the code is gone
#37
For an instruction of cleaning EGR tube, you can search for my (hungtdao) and other posts on this site:
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/maxim...tor-light.html
In addition, I finally got my EGR tube out but I take a lot of efforts by twisting the EGR guide tube and bending (pushing) down the EGR Tube. Once you got a right angle, then the EGR guide tube can be removed.
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/maxim...tor-light.html
In addition, I finally got my EGR tube out but I take a lot of efforts by twisting the EGR guide tube and bending (pushing) down the EGR Tube. Once you got a right angle, then the EGR guide tube can be removed.
#39
Hey Fella's i have the same code coming up this is like the 3rd time my EGR valve has gone bad with-in the 6 months i had it (bought it in Aug) the 1st two times the car was fine even survived the harsh winter we got in Jan this year. My Mech tells me that he wants to look into it further but to me that small talk for "imma take ur money fool" i told him about the tubes and he told me he doubt it smh i dont want to dish out any more money on that darn thing since i want to modify it with a cold air intake etc. What can be the problem? i want to go to him and show him i kno what im talking about. Thanks Guys.
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