axion

I have a 95 GLE, and recently I've noticed that my car seems to shake, it feels like the engine is causing it. Every 5 seconds or so, it seems to give a little "kick", but it's not that noticable. I just want to be sure everything is okay. If you need any more info just tell me and I'll do my best. Thanks.

Sonic

He's going to need the mileage, how it was driven, the last service done, last time plugs were replaced, if the car exhibits any other signs or symptoms, whether or not the AC is on and whether all the fluids are where they should be.

axion

here we go...it's got 130,000 miles I drive it pretty normal, sometimes rather aggresively but not often. The oil was replaced not too long ago, with synthetic oil. As for spark plugs, I'm not sure when I didn't ask the person I bought it from. It does it whether the AC is on or off.

Daniel B. Martin

MedicSonic is right, a detailed symptom report is always helpful. Has the Check Engine Light ever turned on?

The little "kick" may be an isolated misfire. This could be the result of an ignition problem or a fuel problem.

Ignition problems include a bad plug, bad coil, defective harness or connector, or a bad sensor such as a Crankshaft Position Sensor.

Fuel problems include a bad fuel injector, defective harness or connector, stuck-open EGR valve, stuck-open PCV valve, or a vacuum leak.

Since you don't know your car's maintenance history, please do (or have done) the full 120K mile service which will include new spark plugs. Even if plugs don't cure the shaking symptom, it will be money well spent. If the symptom persists, post to this thread again and we can go from there.

axion

Does anybody know how much this 120,000 mile service will cost? And where do I have it done?

Daniel B. Martin

The regular scheduled maintenance procedures may be done by anyone: the dealer, an independent shop, or the owner.

If you like to do your own "wrenching" you can do the 120K service in your own driveway for less than $100 in parts and materials. See http://integra.vtec.net/geeser/megamax/60k_service.html

If you prefer to have a professional do your service work, ask around town. Ask friends, neighbors, coworkers. Chances are you will hear some horror stories, and also some glowing recommendations.

Independents usually charge less than the dealer. Perhaps you will find a former Nissan dealer technician who opened his own repair shop. That's a good man to know!

axion

I called the person that owned the car before me, he said they did the 60k service around about 80-85k miles. Does that mean I should do it anyway?

Sonic

You are past another 60K service. Do it.

Daniel B. Martin

Yes, by all means.

vmok

I guess you should really do it... Daniel told you to do it twice.

-V

Daniel B. Martin

Yes, but the second post was unintentional. Sometimes the Maxima.Org server gets bogged down and a post operation times out, so I repeat it. Afterwards it turns out both posts "took".

I'll delete the superfluous, redundant, plethoric, extraneous, and unnecessary duplicate post.

axion

On my previous tank of gas, I used a fuel injector cleaner. I think it was Mobil Complete, and I filled up my tank all the way and poured it in, and drove normally. But that's kind of when the problem started to show up I believe. Do you think this has anything to do with it?

Daniel B. Martin

Possibly. Nissan recommends that no fuel system treatment be used. These chemicals are powerful solvents and will attack the insulation of the fuel injector windings. I would use fuel system treatment only if there is a clear indication of an injector problem, but never as a routine preventive measure.

Daniel B. Martin

Your engine miss could be caused by a bad fuel injector. There are two tests the home mechanic can make, the sound test and the resistance test.

Sound test...
This test is performed with the engine idling. Use a mechanic's
stethoscope or a length of rubber vacuum hose, and listen to each injector.
All injectors should sound alike. If you find one which makes a different
sound (or no sound at all) you have found a problem.

Resistance test...
This test is performed with the engine off. Use an ohmmeter to measure the
resistance of each injector. This does not require removing the injectors.
I don't know the correct resistance value for the injectors on your model,
but they are typically a low number such as 16 ohms. The important thing
is they should all be equal. If you find one injector with substantially
higher resistance than the others, it is bad. If you find one with zero
ohms (short circuit) that is truly unfortunate, because the injector is bad
and it may also have damaged the Engine Control Module (the computer)
because of excessive current drain.

Measuring the resistance of the front bank of cylinders is easy because the
injectors are in plain view. Disconnect the injector electrical connector
for cylinder #2, measure the resistance, reconnect the connector. Repeat
for the cylinders #4 and #6.

Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.

The dealer's shop is equipped with high-tech diagnostic instruments. These are wonderful devices but they are expensive and the dealer has to recover his cost by charging you for diagnostic time. Sometimes the home mechanic can do legitimate diagnostic work with nothing more than a ohmmeter and a rubber tube.

vmok

I was just trying to be humorous, funny, comic....

-V