How did you remove the driver's side axle? The Haynes manual says I can't just pry it out it has to be pushed out from the otherside, or did you guys manage some other way?

 

some one should be prying while the other person is yanking. i did not go in from the other side. I did see the same thing in the Haynes manual, i think it's just showing that it might be easier by looking at it from the other side.

 

just use a pry bar and rock the the base CV joint with your weight pulling on it. it will come out, no need for a friend to be there. should be smooth sailing make sure when you re-install that you hear the click sound when the CV axle is re-inserted

 

I just took mine to the shop

 

Glad that worked out for you, but I want little or nothing to do with mechanics around here

 

I think they want me to stick a broomstick in and push it out LOL!

 

some one should be prying while the other person is yanking.

 

We're still talking about the AXLE right?

 

I had a friend of mine pushed it a little it and hammered it a little and it popped right out. Took me like 10 minutes.

 

^^^ agree, get a pry bar and in short bursts with one hand pry between transaxle and axle end where they attach. With the other hand pull on the axle, don't put your face dirrectly below the axle end or it could hit u in the face and tran fluid in eyes. No need for a friend, I just removed mine to drop my motor.

edit: careful with axle/tran seal- Inspect them.

 

I used a metal bar that i had laying around and was punching it out while someone else was pulling on it...worked pretty easily...

 

do you mean punching it out from the passenger side?

 

thats a litlle over the top for me CV joints are a finesse thing wiggle it a little get the pry bar at a good angle and ****** it out.........make sure you have a drip pan though some tranny fluid should come out as well

 

yeah...i didn't bang on it...i lightly tapped it with a rubber hammer..

 

I am. Are you, feg?

 

Will a 1/2" ratchet hold up to the 36mm bolt? (according to the guide on motorvate his didn't)

 

yes it will hold a 36mm SOCKET, you'll prob need a breaker bar cuz it's on there pretty tight, air or strong electric impact wrench are a plus.

 

I meant if it would break. I have a craftsman 1/2" ratchet it's been pretty sturdy thus far, but if it breaks I'm heading to sears to get my money back (gotta love that lifetime warranty )

 

My 1/2" breaker bar and torque wrench didn't hold up...had to go to autozone and get a 3/4" breaker along with the socket, which i returned after i was done with it...

 

1/2 is bigger than 3/4..........you can use a ratchet but have a pipe to put on the end of it.

 

1/2 is bigger than 3/4....not

 

1/4 < 1/2 < 3/4

 

you would be in idiot if you used a 1/2 socket on that axle nut. Sears sells a 3/4 36mm socket for like 7 bucks, then you need a ~4 inch extension, and a breaker bar.

 

I couldn't find a 3/4" 36mm socket. the largest one they have was 1/2", plus I have a 1/2" socket breaker bar which I could use to loosen the bolt without risking damage to the ratchet

 

I've used a 1/2" 36mm and my BMF pipe countless times, you don't need a 3/4"

Also, I've always been lucky and just pushed in and then used the guns to yank the thing right out

 

You can get a 36mm axle nut socket on loan from autozone or advance auto that is suitable for the job. Add a breaker bar to it and you should be set. My bar is 25" long 1/2" drive and nothing broke hopping on the end of the bar, just keep the socket straight, you don't want it to slip off.

 

Take out the passenger side first then work on the drivr side. I did that last week. I followed Hayne manual. So do that and am not mechanic and plz let me know how u make out.

 

u do not need to remove the passenger side... why are u guys saying that.. haynes manual is a piece of crap...

alls u do is pry the **** out of it and have someone else pull it out.... thats it...

 

It's fairly easy once you've done it a time or two.

One good thing to remember if you have to use a breaker bar on the axle nut with an extension, put a jackstand next to the wheel and let the extension lay on that while you're hanging on the breaker bar. Keeps a 90 degree angle (no loss of torque) and basically keeps the socket from slipping off of the axle nut. This obviously may or may not be possible depending on the wheel size you have, or if the car's in the air or not.

Personally my cheapie $100 electric impact from Lowes takes my axle nuts off no problems (where even the IR guns and big compressor at my school had troubles), but this method worked on Saturn axle nuts I recently did (a clutch job) and a crank pulley bolt in a Civic (god that was fun without power/air tools).