Maxima owners with Auto Tranny who have replaced their CV axles please step in
#1
Maxima owners with Auto Tranny who have replaced their CV axles please step in
How did you remove the driver's side axle? The Haynes manual says I can't just pry it out it has to be pushed out from the otherside, or did you guys manage some other way?
#3
just use a pry bar and rock the the base CV joint with your weight pulling on it. it will come out, no need for a friend to be there. should be smooth sailing make sure when you re-install that you hear the click sound when the CV axle is re-inserted
#6
Originally Posted by maxima985spd
some one should be prying while the other person is yanking. i did not go in from the other side. I did see the same thing in the Haynes manual, i think it's just showing that it might be easier by looking at it from the other side.
#10
Originally Posted by slinky87
just use a pry bar and rock the the base CV joint with your weight pulling on it. it will come out, no need for a friend to be there. should be smooth sailing make sure when you re-install that you hear the click sound when the CV axle is re-inserted
edit: careful with axle/tran seal- Inspect them.
#12
Originally Posted by kostya.lyt
I used a metal bar that i had laying around and was punching it out while someone else was pulling on it...worked pretty easily...
#13
thats a litlle over the top for me CV joints are a finesse thing wiggle it a little get the pry bar at a good angle and ****** it out.........make sure you have a drip pan though some tranny fluid should come out as well
#17
Originally Posted by Dexter
Will a 1/2" ratchet hold up to the 36mm bolt? (according to the guide on motorvate his didn't)
#18
Originally Posted by maxpeed96plat.
yes it will hold a 36mm SOCKET, you'll prob need a breaker bar cuz it's on there pretty tight, air or strong electric impact wrench are a plus.
#19
Originally Posted by Dexter
Will a 1/2" ratchet hold up to the 36mm bolt? (according to the guide on motorvate his didn't)
#24
Originally Posted by maxima985spd
you would be in idiot if you used a 1/2 socket on that axle nut. Sears sells a 3/4 36mm socket for like 7 bucks, then you need a ~4 inch extension, and a breaker bar.
#26
You can get a 36mm axle nut socket on loan from autozone or advance auto that is suitable for the job. Add a breaker bar to it and you should be set. My bar is 25" long 1/2" drive and nothing broke hopping on the end of the bar, just keep the socket straight, you don't want it to slip off.
#29
Originally Posted by f550maranello2
u do not need to remove the passenger side... why are u guys saying that.. haynes manual is a piece of crap...
alls u do is pry the **** out of it and have someone else pull it out.... thats it...
alls u do is pry the **** out of it and have someone else pull it out.... thats it...
It's fairly easy once you've done it a time or two.
One good thing to remember if you have to use a breaker bar on the axle nut with an extension, put a jackstand next to the wheel and let the extension lay on that while you're hanging on the breaker bar. Keeps a 90 degree angle (no loss of torque) and basically keeps the socket from slipping off of the axle nut. This obviously may or may not be possible depending on the wheel size you have, or if the car's in the air or not.
Personally my cheapie $100 electric impact from Lowes takes my axle nuts off no problems (where even the IR guns and big compressor at my school had troubles), but this method worked on Saturn axle nuts I recently did (a clutch job) and a crank pulley bolt in a Civic (god that was fun without power/air tools).
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