my 99 auto trans has been acting up lately. when its first started after sitting for over about 8 hrs it shuts of when you put it in drive or reverse. It has about 15,000 miles on the trans. Once you get the car to move it seems like it is getting stuck in second but it usually clears up after i drive a mile or so. If anyone has any ideas please respond!!!

 

Check your ATF level. Follow the instructions in the owner manual (engine on, flat surface, etc...).

The ATF should be pink, and not dark. It also shouldn't have a metallic odor.

 

Ive already checked that.

 

check the fuel pressure. maybe something caught in the fuel filter. I'd take it to the dealer since it's still under warranty.

 

There are several tests you can make with the fluid on the automatic transmission dipstick.

1) Level. It should be up to the full mark. If not, add as required.

2) Color. It should be bright red and translucent. A brown or black color is a sign of fluid degraded by excessive heat, and/or worn friction materials. A minty pink color is a sign of water contamination.

3) Odor. It should have a clean oily smell. A burned odor is a sign of fluid degraded by excessive heat.

4) Feel. Wipe the dipstick with your fingers and then rub your fingers together. It should be smooth and slippery. A "gritty" feeling is a sign of worn friction materials.

Sometimes the service life of a transmission can be extended by changing the fluid. Automatic transmission fluid is loaded with detergents, so new fluid can clean the insides of the transmission. If you decide to do this, find a shop that uses the Magic Sucker Pump which removes -all- of the old fluid. An ordinary drain-and-refill changes only about half of the fluid.

You said "... about 15,000 miles on the trans." Does that mean this is not the original transmission in the car?

 

Power is transmitted from the engine to the automatic transmission through the Torque Converter. The TC provides enough slippage so that the engine doesn't stall when the vehicle is stopped. However, this slippage has the disadvantage of inefficiency. To eliminate this inefficiency at highway speeds (and thereby improve fuel economy) the TC has a lockup clutch which is engaged automatically by the Transmission Control Unit when the vehicle is cruising at highway speeds.

Your symptoms indicate the possibility of a TC clutch which is engaged when it should not be. This could be the result of a faulty TC or TC clutch solenoid valve.

 

How do I check the torque converter solenoid and where is it located and yes this is a different trans. than original the dealer had to replace it because it wouldnt shift into drive or OD.

 

The torque converter solenoid is one of five solenoids in the shift solenoid valve assembly. This component is located inside the automatic transmission. It may be removed without first removing the transmission from the vehicle. However, it is possible to make a simple resistance test without opening the transaxle.

Find the harnesses which emanate from the transaxle. One of them terminates in a brown plastic connector with eight pins. This is connector F42, and is located (approximately) above the transaxle case and below the black plastic engine air intake ductwork. With the engine off, disconnect F42. You want to measure the transmission side of F42. Hold the connector such that the plastic latch is at the top. You should now see two rows of four terminals. These are numbered (top row, left to right) 1 - 4, and (bottom row, left to right) 5 - 8. Make resistance measurements between a clean ground and the following terminals:
#1, Shift solenoid B, 20 - 40 ohms.
#2, Shift solenoid A, 20 - 40 ohms.
#3, Overrun clutch solenoid valve, 20 - 40 ohms.
#4, Line pressure solenoid valve, 2.5 - 5 ohms.
#5, Torque converter clutch solenoid valve, 10 - 20 ohms.

There is also a "bench test" procedure for testing these solenoids with a 12 volt supply such as a car battery. However, this requires removal of the shift solenoid valve assembly. I don't know if you want to get involved with that.

The ATF temperature sensor resistance is measured across terminals 6 and 7 of F42.
At 68 degrees F, the resistance should be approximately 2.5Kohms.
At 176 degrees F, the resistance should be approximately 0.3Kohms