95 Max stalls and hesitates
#1
95 Max stalls and hesitates
My 95 Max stalls immediately after it starts about 1/3 of the time. It won't start until I hold the pedal to the floor and crank the starter. After it starts, the smell of fuel is strong. At stoplights, the car will stall occasionally. There is also a noticeable "miss" when it is at a stoplight. These is also the same hesitation at about 30-35 mph. After that it accelerates just fine. Fuel mileage is down slightly, but nothing significantly. Any suggestions?
Stock motor, 163K miles, injectors, coils & tune up at 142K miles and the dealer couldn't find the problem. No codes being thrown at this time.
Help! Please!
Stock motor, 163K miles, injectors, coils & tune up at 142K miles and the dealer couldn't find the problem. No codes being thrown at this time.
Help! Please!
#3
Thanks. The dealer replaced that as well and it didn't make any difference. They even consulted with a Nissan tech who was unable to offer any more suggestions.
The last thing the dealer said before telling me they couldn't fix it was to consider buying a new ECM and having that installed.
The last thing the dealer said before telling me they couldn't fix it was to consider buying a new ECM and having that installed.
#5
Originally Posted by rolldog1
Thanks. The dealer replaced that as well and it didn't make any difference. They even consulted with a Nissan tech who was unable to offer any more suggestions.
The last thing the dealer said before telling me they couldn't fix it was to consider buying a new ECM and having that installed.
The last thing the dealer said before telling me they couldn't fix it was to consider buying a new ECM and having that installed.
#8
STOP spending your money! I had the same problem. I replaced the MAF (mass air flow) sensor and that was it. I got the new one from AutoZone. The part number is 74-10035. I paid about $270 for it. after that solved my problem I took the old one back and got $43. You can also try a junk yard. My friend was having the same problem and fixed his for $100.
#9
You may be better off in trying to clean the MAF sensor first and save yourself several hundred dollars. A lot of folks has cleaned theirs and it worked great. Another thing to check and clean is your throttle body. My daughter had a problem similar to yours. After I cleaned the TB and put on a new MAF, that fixed her problem. It is very easy to clean. Be sure to use a good quality throttle body cleaner on it though. Good luck
#11
Originally Posted by wayne937
You may be better off in trying to clean the MAF sensor first and save yourself several hundred dollars. A lot of folks has cleaned theirs and it worked great. Another thing to check and clean is your throttle body. My daughter had a problem similar to yours. After I cleaned the TB and put on a new MAF, that fixed her problem. It is very easy to clean. Be sure to use a good quality throttle body cleaner on it though. Good luck
#12
go to the bay, buy a maf for ~50 shipped, and replace it. It is a very simple job and took me about half an hour. I took my old one out, and will clean it when I have time. Didn't really try cleaning it, wanted to replace as quick as possible so I can stop wasting gas.
#13
Originally Posted by wayne937
You may be better off in trying to clean the MAF sensor first and save yourself several hundred dollars. A lot of folks has cleaned theirs and it worked great. Another thing to check and clean is your throttle body. My daughter had a problem similar to yours. After I cleaned the TB and put on a new MAF, that fixed her problem. It is very easy to clean. Be sure to use a good quality throttle body cleaner on it though. Good luck
good quality TB cleaner? like what? CRC? examples please
#14
Your throttle body (TB) is located behind the air filter and the MAF sensor. It is attached to your engine. I also replaced my MAF sensor at the same time I cleaned the TB. I ordered my MAF sensor from Southpoint Nissan in Austin Telephone #1-888-254-6060. Ask for a Dave Burnette. They are expensive. Mine cost $403.95 with the two day shipping. According to everyone I have read about Dave is that he will treat you right and he is well versed on Nissans. To clean the MAF sensor right you have to completely remove it and then spray a good throtte body cleaner in the front and rear of the of the hot wire sensing element. About a three to four second burst of TB cleaner from both directions is recommended. Then let dry for about 1/2 hour then reinstall. Go here, http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/517 for pictures and a complete write up on how to clean the throttle body. For information on how to clean the MAF sensor go here: http://www.q45.org/maf.html By the way I bought my TB cleaner from NAPA. I suppose Auto Zone would have it also.
#16
u know recently i developed a similar problem of strong fuel smell trying to restart my car after it stalled soon after the car started up. However, my car gave me a p0125, which is a Engine Coolant Temp Sensor code. Try change that sensor see if it helps. It should be pretty cheap and quick replacement.
Oh i also did stall few times when fully stopped, and few times also got hesitation. Hope this helps.
Oh i also did stall few times when fully stopped, and few times also got hesitation. Hope this helps.
#18
Dude, don't spend 250 on the MAF sensor! You can buy it new for 150 from parts stores. That first.
Second, I am cheap and mean so I go, buy the part and put it in, if it works, I keep it, if not -- return it. So a MAF is a great place to start.
I think he should have replaced the spark plugs with the tune up, even if he didn't i doubt it's the plugs.
Keep in mind that no codes does not outrule malfunctioning sensors, ECU usually detects tham when they are completely unoperable..
Second, I am cheap and mean so I go, buy the part and put it in, if it works, I keep it, if not -- return it. So a MAF is a great place to start.
I think he should have replaced the spark plugs with the tune up, even if he didn't i doubt it's the plugs.
Keep in mind that no codes does not outrule malfunctioning sensors, ECU usually detects tham when they are completely unoperable..
#19
So i am having the same problem. Just wondering what fixed your problem? my max has 142k on it. Same exact symptoms except that once the car gets warm the problems usually stop except for a few mis fires at a stop light. ive replaced plugs, coils, fuel filter, toped off all fluids, new air fitler.
#20
Misfires can be spark or fuel related.
The most common is dirty injectors or an injector that is failing.
There are also 3 sensors associated with timing and spark- 1 camshaft and 2 crank sensors. If one of thoese is failing it will cause misfires.
The most basic thing you can do to help your Max is disconnect all of the wiring connectors under the hood, spray them with WD40 or electrical contact cleaner, and reconnect them. Poor connections are a very common cause of weird issues.
The most common is dirty injectors or an injector that is failing.
There are also 3 sensors associated with timing and spark- 1 camshaft and 2 crank sensors. If one of thoese is failing it will cause misfires.
The most basic thing you can do to help your Max is disconnect all of the wiring connectors under the hood, spray them with WD40 or electrical contact cleaner, and reconnect them. Poor connections are a very common cause of weird issues.
#23
Okay well today I went ahead and cleaned my throttle body and MAF. I went to do a little test drive and instantly I can feel the difference. But it did not fix the problem. I began to drive down my street and everything was fine but my car usually had problems when i started from a dead stop while the engine was fairly cold. So I came to a stop on my street and began to accelerate and instantly the car stalled. I turned the car back on and it started up perfectly then right when I put the car in drive I stalled again. It did that 3 more times before I could put it in drive without the car stalling. So I'm thinking that i need to replace the fuel pump? any other ideas? I listed other maintenance things i did above.
#25
No codes, plugs have been changed, and all filters have been changed except the one that goes with the fuel pump. I'm not really sure what that filter is called but I know I have to replace a filter and O-ring seal when i replace the fuel pump. Any more ideas before I buy a new fuel pump?
#28
probably not, you will end up with gas all over when you take the fuel rail off if you not careful if you get it running you can try a basic "click" test by using a screwdriver touching the mounting bolt of each injector. it should make a "click" each time it pulses fuel. if any dont they are probably bad $$$. see if your new plugs are fouled by gas already... maybe one is stuck open somehow... usualy they are dead closed and you get a miss
#29
I'll try doing that Click test because my car does run. Now i have notices that since i have cleaned the throttle body and MAF sensor that the car never stalls anymore. The only thing it does now is stutter everyonce in awhile. Gives the car a quick jerk usually in lower rpms between 1k and 1500. How would I know it's not the fuel pressure reg instead of the fuel pump?
#30
So i went and got a new fuel pump. Didn't fix the problem. So instead of taking it to Autozone again i went to the dealer and they said its the MAF. So i went and bought a new MAF sensor. So $400 later the problem is fixed. Now to get new tires.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
litch
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
123
01-04-2024 08:01 PM
BPuff57
Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking
33
04-16-2020 06:15 AM