Couple brake questions
08-30-2007, 05:38 PM
#1
Couple brake questions
Three quick questions...
1 - I go to tighten one of the bolts on the rear caliper pins, and the bolt breaks. I order a new bolt, after checking the pin and seeing that it looks fine, put the new bolt in and it breaks in the same spot...right above where the threads stop. Threads in the pin still look perfect. I've broken a lot of bolts on this car...but this is a new one on me. I'll order a new pin, but I don't understand why a brand new bolt would break like this. It never even gets tight...I'm using a torque wrench that worked fine for every other pin on the car. I suppose I should run a tap into the pin tommorrow and see what happens, but I've never seen anything like this before...threads in the pin look FINE.
2 - When you grease the caliper pins, are you using the method they recommend in the paper that comes with the little rebuild kit...i.e. put grease in the hole until it squishes out when you push the pin in and then wipe off what squished out, or are you applying less. I read motorvate's instructions and the pins do seem to stick a bit because air cant get in, and I understand why they shouldn't stick like that, but those were nissan's instructions...
3 - Last but not least...my ebrake handle isn't pulling the cable for probably the first inch of travel...it's just slack. The car has not been on a lift in a long time and actually this started as a result of letting the car sit for a few weeks. The crap on the rear calipers seems in good enough shape and I didn't see any crimps in the cable under the car when I took a quick look. The ebrake still seems to work ok, but I suspect it's making the brakes drag. Any suggestions of where to start looking?
Thanks in advance.
1 - I go to tighten one of the bolts on the rear caliper pins, and the bolt breaks. I order a new bolt, after checking the pin and seeing that it looks fine, put the new bolt in and it breaks in the same spot...right above where the threads stop. Threads in the pin still look perfect. I've broken a lot of bolts on this car...but this is a new one on me. I'll order a new pin, but I don't understand why a brand new bolt would break like this. It never even gets tight...I'm using a torque wrench that worked fine for every other pin on the car. I suppose I should run a tap into the pin tommorrow and see what happens, but I've never seen anything like this before...threads in the pin look FINE.
2 - When you grease the caliper pins, are you using the method they recommend in the paper that comes with the little rebuild kit...i.e. put grease in the hole until it squishes out when you push the pin in and then wipe off what squished out, or are you applying less. I read motorvate's instructions and the pins do seem to stick a bit because air cant get in, and I understand why they shouldn't stick like that, but those were nissan's instructions...
3 - Last but not least...my ebrake handle isn't pulling the cable for probably the first inch of travel...it's just slack. The car has not been on a lift in a long time and actually this started as a result of letting the car sit for a few weeks. The crap on the rear calipers seems in good enough shape and I didn't see any crimps in the cable under the car when I took a quick look. The ebrake still seems to work ok, but I suspect it's making the brakes drag. Any suggestions of where to start looking?
Thanks in advance.
08-30-2007, 08:34 PM
#2
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1. I had that same problem and had to use a different bolt from Ace.
2. I just put some grease on the pin with my finger, then slide it in. Seems to work just fine.
3. I'm a little confused/ If the cable has slack, I don't think that the brakes would be dragging. It sounds like the cable is stretched. I believe you can adjust the cable at one of the ends.
2. I just put some grease on the pin with my finger, then slide it in. Seems to work just fine.
3. I'm a little confused/ If the cable has slack, I don't think that the brakes would be dragging. It sounds like the cable is stretched. I believe you can adjust the cable at one of the ends.
08-31-2007, 06:53 AM
#3
Hmmm...I have two more bolts I ordered from Nissan but I don't wanna break them. Maybe a different bolt is the look, because I can't even get close to the torque spec. I guess I'll run a tap down it and then try it again.
Thanks for the advice on the grease...I was kind of thinking that was the way to go.
You could be right that the cable is stretched, but what I was thinking is that it might be hanging up. The car was fine, then it sat for a while, now it doesn't seem to have tension at the beginning of the throw and the brakes were dragging when I drove it. I'll look in the manual on adjusting it though...
Thanks for the advice on the grease...I was kind of thinking that was the way to go.
You could be right that the cable is stretched, but what I was thinking is that it might be hanging up. The car was fine, then it sat for a while, now it doesn't seem to have tension at the beginning of the throw and the brakes were dragging when I drove it. I'll look in the manual on adjusting it though...
08-31-2007, 12:33 PM
#4
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Originally Posted by endus
Hmmm...I have two more bolts I ordered from Nissan but I don't wanna break them. Maybe a different bolt is the look, because I can't even get close to the torque spec. I guess I'll run a tap down it and then try it again.
Thanks for the advice on the grease...I was kind of thinking that was the way to go.
You could be right that the cable is stretched, but what I was thinking is that it might be hanging up. The car was fine, then it sat for a while, now it doesn't seem to have tension at the beginning of the throw and the brakes were dragging when I drove it. I'll look in the manual on adjusting it though...
Thanks for the advice on the grease...I was kind of thinking that was the way to go.
You could be right that the cable is stretched, but what I was thinking is that it might be hanging up. The car was fine, then it sat for a while, now it doesn't seem to have tension at the beginning of the throw and the brakes were dragging when I drove it. I'll look in the manual on adjusting it though...
Well, the brakes are going to drag a little just because the rotors probably have a nice layer of rust on them from lack of use/humidity. That should clear off within a few miles of stop and go driving. I would put my money on the cable being stretched, especially if it was stored with the e-brake pulled up.
08-31-2007, 12:43 PM
#5
Originally Posted by Slickismax
Well, the brakes are going to drag a little just because the rotors probably have a nice layer of rust on them from lack of use/humidity. That should clear off within a few miles of stop and go driving. I would put my money on the cable being stretched, especially if it was stored with the e-brake pulled up.
True that. Never really let a car sit before so I don't think of these things. I think you're probably right. I'll take a look at the cable adjustment...you're probably right and it does seem like it could be stretched.
Thanks much for your help!
08-31-2007, 09:26 PM
#6
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: NW Burbs Chicago IL
Posts: 54
Rear Brake Slack
There is anaother possible cause for the slack.. I know this becuase it happened to me. If for some reason you got water inside the ebrake cable the cable will start to rust. This will cause the cable to bind inside the plastic shell. When you pull up on the ebrke handle you will engage the brake. When you release the handle the brake will release enough to free the rotor but the spring isn't strong enough to pull the the calipar all the way apart. Without the calipar fully apart you will feel the slack in the cable when you pull the handle(about 2 clicks worth). Try this.. Engage the ebrake and then release. Drive the car for a few blocks then check for heat on the rear rotors. If its hot or anything more than warm then that is most likely the problem. The brake isn't fully releasing because of the binding in the cable.
08-31-2007, 09:42 PM
#7
Originally Posted by av8orjb
There is anaother possible cause for the slack.. I know this becuase it happened to me. If for some reason you got water inside the ebrake cable the cable will start to rust. This will cause the cable to bind inside the plastic shell. When you pull up on the ebrke handle you will engage the brake. When you release the handle the brake will release enough to free the rotor but the spring isn't strong enough to pull the the calipar all the way apart. Without the calipar fully apart you will feel the slack in the cable when you pull the handle(about 2 clicks worth). Try this.. Engage the ebrake and then release. Drive the car for a few blocks then check for heat on the rear rotors. If its hot or anything more than warm then that is most likely the problem. The brake isn't fully releasing because of the binding in the cable.
I gotta get under there and take another look see.
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