Hey there everyone, I've had a check engine light for a little while and was unable to find out what was causing it because the car was driving fine and I couldn't pull any codes. However I remember reading something from another thread a while back, but the details were vague and after that I found this issue in my car and took a picture

http://picasaweb.google.com/m00njal/...75815147164226

Seems like some sort of hose that the heat of the strut bar broke off ....is this critical enough to cause the CEL light to come on after being cleared several times? If so, I'll replace it with a longer, re-routed house tomorrow from AutoZone.

Thanks for your help everyone.

 

its not the heat of the strut bar. its the engine revving at high rpm and when it moves up, that hose gets broken by your FSTB. been there, done that 3 times. get a new one and bend the bracket attached to it. its like $20 at junkyard or pm fanaticrockford, its called the EVAP canister purge control valve and yes it throws on CEL.


to me it looks like you snapped the hose itself (how is beyond me). you can just get a new hose or use some barbed fitting to put it back together. mine snapped like this

 

what kind of bar r u using ? maybe some bars are lower than others

 

i belive he had the EBay strut bars. i have the same one.. and i my evap purge thing broke too..

 

It's the Otto Racing one that does it.

 

do the brand named ones do the same thing ?

i am considering pickin one up locally, from LSS exhaust (Budget) they are like a 30 minute drive from me for $50 can + tax

But this thread is scaring me, i dont want my evap to go kaputz!!!

 

Yes, I do have an eBay strut bar, but it seems that many most cheaper and lower end bars do that.

Personally, I'm not too worried, now I know I can either bend the bracket or re-route a longer hose, since fortunately, the entire purge valve didn't break for me like VIP Maxima's.


So don't hesitate to get a strut bar, I guess this is an addressed issue and you should just be ready to re-do your EVAP purge valve. Thanks for this advice everyone!

On another un-related note, who here thinks having a wiki dedicated on this site would be a much faster, easier solution than the stickies we have here?

Thanks for your input!

 

I have the eBay strut bar, and I posted a thread awhile back about this problem. Here was the bar at the time:



I bent the bracket as much as it would safely go (without touching the throttle cable). I also took the hose off and trimmed about a half inch off of the plastic nipple.

It fits perfectly with about 3/4 inch of clearance, and I've been running with it like this for a couple months and the bar's never even touched the hose. If you have worn motor mounts, you'd be better off running without a bar, as the engine will lurch too much.

 

uh.......okay......

So how do I and what bracket do I bend so that the purge valve exactly moves away from the strut bar? I tried bending the one that sort of "clamps" on the to the purge valve and just the bracket moves...and the valve stays in place.

Do I have to replace the larger hoses attached to it with longer ones and bend some of the other things also to move everything? I'm very puzzled and don't want to break anything. Anyone experienced with this able to set aside 20 minutes this weekend to help me with it? (Jae possibly?)
Thanks a lot in advance.