CoOlKidS1979

I have been having this problem for the last year, since I purchased the car.

When I go start the car it will make a click like sound several times then turm over, each time it click the power is cut , because the dash lights go on and off with each click. This does not happen everytime I start the car, only about 1/4 of the time, but when it does start it seems to take longer than it should to turn over, at least compared to my 98 Sentra.

So far the spark plugs, fuel filter, and battery have been replaced. I have checked amd cleaned all battery connections, and removed the starter and had it tested at 2 seperate auto supply stores, both said that there was no problem with it. Im not sure what to look at next, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Daniel B. Martin

You are reporting an intermittent problem and that is the most difficult kind.

The spark plugs and fuel filter are not involved in engine cranking. It is good to do this maintenance, but it would not make any change in this symptom.

Replacing the battery and cleaning all battery connections were constructive steps. The kind of "bench test" which auto parts stores do is a no-load test. This kind of test is useful but not conclusive. If a starter fails the no-load test it is bad. However, some starters can pass the no-load test and still fail in the car.

You asked what you might do next. Here are some ideas for a step-by-step fault isolation test sequence.

1) Verify that the negative battery cable to engine block connection is clean and tight. Verify that the positive battery cable to starter motor connection is clean and tight.

2) Some Maxima owners have reported severe corrosion of the battery cable, hidden from view underneath the plastic insulation. Test for this condition by using jumper cables to "help" the battery cables.

On a temporary basis, for testing only, connect ...
- one jumper cable from the negative battery terminal to a clean engine ground.
- one jumper cable from the positive battery terminal to the large terminal on the starter motor.
There is no need to remove the battery cables to make this test. The jumper cables are now in parallel with the battery cables. Crank the engine to start. Switch the ignition off. Wait 20 seconds and repeat the sequence. Do this start/stop operation at least ten times. The reason for the brief wait between starts is to avoid overheating the starter motor. If the starter motor balks, even once, stop this test because you know the battery cables are not the cause. Remove the jumper cables.

3) There may be a problem with the ignition switch, the clutch safety switch (5-speed), the Park/Neutral Position switch (automatic), or the Inhibitor Relay. Test for this possibility by using a fused test lead. Fashion this test lead from a 3-foot length of insulated stranded wire, two alligator clips, and an in-line fuse holder. This test lead should be at least as thick as the starter motor signal wire. Put a 15 amp fuse in the fuse holder.

Shift the car to Park (automatic) or Neutral (5-speed). There are two wires which connect to the starter motor. One is the thick 12 volt battery cable wire. The other is the thin "crank now" signal wire. Remove the thin wire. Turn the ignition on.

Connect one end of this fused test lead to the positive battery terminal. Touch the other end to the starter motor terminal which formerly had the signal wire connected to it. The engine should crank immediately and the engine start. Turn the ignition off, wait 20 seconds and turn it on again. Perform this test ten times, as above. If the starter motor balks, even once, stop this test because you know the ignition switch, clutch switch, PNP switch, and Inhibitor Relay are not the cause. Remove the test lead and install the starter motor signal wire.

Please perform these tests and post your findings here. There are other tests which can be made but let's get into those only if needed.