Broke the Neutral Park finder!
Ok, this is bad, I was trying to take out the neutral park finder in order to fix my leak, except I broke the damn thing trying to pry it out. Unfortunately, it does not look like theres a quick pack connector on it. I'm thinking along the lines of JB welding the plastic part back together as I'm sure this piece is not going to be cheap to replace. Anyway, I removed the O ring, and it is intact alright. It does not fit tightly over the neutral park finder however. I'm definately going to get a new O ring. But I'm thinking about RTVing the thing in as well to stop the leakage. I really dont anticipate needing to remove that unit again, so long as there is no leak coming from it. I'm letting all the oil drain out of the M/T as I type this into a clean oil pan, so I will be able to reuse the oil. Then I'll clean the area and RTV the thing in.
By the way, I replaced my rear wheel stud and it was ALOT easier then I thought it would be! It also cost me less then $2, but I still need a new lug nut. Can anybody explain to me how the rear emergency brake is activated? From what I heard, even cars with rear disc brakes have shoes, because of the difficulty in a cable pushing the hydraulic piston. From what I saw today from removing the rotor, there is NOTHING behind the rotor "hat" where shoes would be. And, the parking brake cables go right into the caliper anyway. Does the cable actually active the piston?
By the way, I replaced my rear wheel stud and it was ALOT easier then I thought it would be! It also cost me less then $2, but I still need a new lug nut. Can anybody explain to me how the rear emergency brake is activated? From what I heard, even cars with rear disc brakes have shoes, because of the difficulty in a cable pushing the hydraulic piston. From what I saw today from removing the rotor, there is NOTHING behind the rotor "hat" where shoes would be. And, the parking brake cables go right into the caliper anyway. Does the cable actually active the piston?
Confusing
Originally posted by ericdwong
Ok, this is bad, I was trying to take out the neutral park finder in order to fix my leak, except I broke the damn thing trying to pry it out. Unfortunately, it does not look like theres a quick pack connector on it. I'm thinking along the lines of JB welding the plastic part back together as I'm sure this piece is not going to be cheap to replace. Anyway, I removed the O ring, and it is intact alright. It does not fit tightly over the neutral park finder however. I'm definately going to get a new O ring. But I'm thinking about RTVing the thing in as well to stop the leakage. I really dont anticipate needing to remove that unit again, so long as there is no leak coming from it. I'm letting all the oil drain out of the M/T as I type this into a clean oil pan, so I will be able to reuse the oil. Then I'll clean the area and RTV the thing in.
...
Ok, this is bad, I was trying to take out the neutral park finder in order to fix my leak, except I broke the damn thing trying to pry it out. Unfortunately, it does not look like theres a quick pack connector on it. I'm thinking along the lines of JB welding the plastic part back together as I'm sure this piece is not going to be cheap to replace. Anyway, I removed the O ring, and it is intact alright. It does not fit tightly over the neutral park finder however. I'm definately going to get a new O ring. But I'm thinking about RTVing the thing in as well to stop the leakage. I really dont anticipate needing to remove that unit again, so long as there is no leak coming from it. I'm letting all the oil drain out of the M/T as I type this into a clean oil pan, so I will be able to reuse the oil. Then I'll clean the area and RTV the thing in.
...
Originally posted by ericdwong
... By the way, I replaced my rear wheel stud and it was ALOT easier then I thought it would be! It also cost me less then $2, but I still need a new lug nut. Can anybody explain to me how the rear emergency brake is activated? From what I heard, even cars with rear disc brakes have shoes, because of the difficulty in a cable pushing the hydraulic piston. From what I saw today from removing the rotor, there is NOTHING behind the rotor "hat" where shoes would be. And, the parking brake cables go right into the caliper anyway. Does the cable actually active the piston?
... By the way, I replaced my rear wheel stud and it was ALOT easier then I thought it would be! It also cost me less then $2, but I still need a new lug nut. Can anybody explain to me how the rear emergency brake is activated? From what I heard, even cars with rear disc brakes have shoes, because of the difficulty in a cable pushing the hydraulic piston. From what I saw today from removing the rotor, there is NOTHING behind the rotor "hat" where shoes would be. And, the parking brake cables go right into the caliper anyway. Does the cable actually active the piston?
Originally posted by ericdwong
Ok, this is bad, I was trying to take out the neutral park finder in order to fix my leak, except I broke the damn thing trying to pry it out. Unfortunately, it does not look like theres a quick pack connector on it. I'm thinking along the lines of JB welding the plastic part back together as I'm sure this piece is not going to be cheap to replace. Anyway, I removed the O ring, and it is intact alright. It does not fit tightly over the neutral park finder however. I'm definately going to get a new O ring. But I'm thinking about RTVing the thing in as well to stop the leakage. I really dont anticipate needing to remove that unit again, so long as there is no leak coming from it. I'm letting all the oil drain out of the M/T as I type this into a clean oil pan, so I will be able to reuse the oil. Then I'll clean the area and RTV the thing in. ...
... OK make that the "Park Neutral Position" switch.
Ok, this is bad, I was trying to take out the neutral park finder in order to fix my leak, except I broke the damn thing trying to pry it out. Unfortunately, it does not look like theres a quick pack connector on it. I'm thinking along the lines of JB welding the plastic part back together as I'm sure this piece is not going to be cheap to replace. Anyway, I removed the O ring, and it is intact alright. It does not fit tightly over the neutral park finder however. I'm definately going to get a new O ring. But I'm thinking about RTVing the thing in as well to stop the leakage. I really dont anticipate needing to remove that unit again, so long as there is no leak coming from it. I'm letting all the oil drain out of the M/T as I type this into a clean oil pan, so I will be able to reuse the oil. Then I'll clean the area and RTV the thing in. ...
... OK make that the "Park Neutral Position" switch.
I think RTV could make a good seal if you can get the surfaces really clean.
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