fnkmaster

i just went to get a haircut a couple of hrs ago, and when i drove there, the car seemed in perfect condition. after my haircut when i tried to start the car, much to my dismay, it just would not start. the only sound that is heard is the clicking when u turn the key, but there is no ignition. also, the battery seemed to lose it power as i could not roll up the windows (which rolled down fine with the key fob).
i tried jump starting the car, but it did not help. it still wouldnt start. it did help to recharge the battery a little bit though, so i managed to roll up the windows.
i think it might have something to do with the alternator but i am not sure... i really dont feel like spending the money to get it fixed if i can do it myself. poor maxine is still parked there... i really appreciate the help! thx.

Sonic

If you try to jump start a dead battery, the car will not start. Get the battery checked. The reason that it isn't the alternator is because the car would start right up if you jumped it, then would die.

Daniel B. Martin

Here are some ideas for a step-by-step fault isolation test sequence.

1) Make sure the battery is in good condition and fully charged. Replace or recharge the battery, as required.

2) Verify that the negative battery cable to engine block connection is clean and tight. Verify that the positive battery cable to starter motor connection is clean and tight.

3) Some Maxima owners have reported severe corrosion of the battery cable, hidden from view underneath the plastic insulation. Test for this condition by using jumper cables to "help" the battery cables.

On a temporary basis, for testing only, connect ...
- one jumper cable from the negative battery terminal to a clean engine ground.
- one jumper cable from the positive battery terminal to the large terminal on the starter motor.
There is no need to remove the battery cables to make this test. The jumper cables are now in parallel with the battery cables. Crank the engine to start. Switch the ignition off. Wait 30 seconds and repeat the sequence. Do this start/stop operation at least ten times. The reason for the brief wait between starts is to avoid overheating the starter motor. If the starter motor balks, even once, stop this test because you know the battery cables are not the cause. Remove the jumper cables.

4) There may be a problem with the ignition switch, the clutch safety switch (5-speed), the Park/Neutral Position switch (automatic), or the Inhibitor Relay. Test for this possibility by using a fused test lead. Fashion this test lead from a 3-foot length of insulated stranded wire, two alligator clips, and an in-line fuse holder. This test lead should be at least as thick as the starter motor signal wire. Put a 15 amp fuse in the fuse holder.

Shift the car to Park (automatic) or Neutral (5-speed). There are two wires which connect to the starter motor. One is the thick 12 volt battery cable wire. The other is the thin "crank now" signal wire. Remove the thin wire. Turn the ignition on.

Connect one end of this fused test lead to the positive battery terminal. Touch the other end to the starter motor terminal which formerly had the signal wire connected to it. The engine should crank immediately and the engine start. Turn the ignition off, wait 30 seconds and turn it on again. Perform this test ten times, as above. If the starter motor balks, even once, stop this test because you know the ignition switch, clutch switch, PNP switch, and Inhibitor Relay are not the cause. Remove the test lead and install the starter motor signal wire.

Please perform these tests and post your findings here. There are other tests which can be made but let's get into those only if needed.

fnkmaster

thanks medic and dbm... i'm about to check out the car... i'll post my findings in a little while.

fnkmaster

well i found out the source of the problem. i began performing the steps that daniel posted. the battery seemed in good condition and so were the battery cables. i connected the cables from the starter motor to the battery and sure enough the car started fine. but the funny part i noticed here was that when the car was turned off, and the cables removed, i couldnt start the car anymore. once again the clicking sound would resume. before performing the last step, i disconnected the battery and shook it a little because the acid looked a different color than usual. i plugged it back in and the car started up fine. i guess this was just a case of a faulty battery... i'm probably going to get a new one, the existing battery was the factory hitachi one... well thanks for the info!

Sonic

Cool, a simple fix.