CV Boots Damn
#1
Just got started putting on my Ground Control coil-overs. and DAMN Both front CV boots are split. Last time I had the wheels off (i was cleaning them) they where OK. Are these boots hard to replace or since they are now exposed to the world do I need to do more (regrease etc.) How much will a shop charge to fix. Any help is appreciated.
#2
Pep boys quoted me 200+ just to do one side... I got the whole axle and replaced it for $60 and about 45 minutes of my time...
Let me know if you have any questions on how to do it... I just did it three days ago...
Let me know if you have any questions on how to do it... I just did it three days ago...
#4
Most auto part stores can get them for you or tell you where to get them...
There is usually a core charge too, but you get that back when you bring back your new axle...
-Lift your car
-Take the wheel off
-Remove the Spindle nut, while applying the brakes
-Remove the Caliper
-Remove Rotor
-Remove Top Strut Bolt
-Now you should be able to bend the axle and the A-arm enough to slide the axle out.
-Then you have to tug on it to get it out of the tranny.
-Put your new one in, turn it till the teeth line up
-Use a rubber mallet or something to get it back in the tranny
-Put everything back on
-Get an alignment
-Drink a beer, you're done
There is usually a core charge too, but you get that back when you bring back your new axle...
-Lift your car
-Take the wheel off
-Remove the Spindle nut, while applying the brakes
-Remove the Caliper
-Remove Rotor
-Remove Top Strut Bolt
-Now you should be able to bend the axle and the A-arm enough to slide the axle out.
-Then you have to tug on it to get it out of the tranny.
-Put your new one in, turn it till the teeth line up
-Use a rubber mallet or something to get it back in the tranny
-Put everything back on
-Get an alignment
-Drink a beer, you're done
#6
i've noticed a lot of max drivers go to Pep Boys for car service and parts installation. i've got a Pep Boys right down the street from where i live. are these guys reliable? i'm still searching for a good mechanic who i can trust.
#9
Originally posted by Rooster286
Jeez, Brake King does boot replacments around here for 39.99, 200.00 is insane. I had to get an Axle replaced and Brake King charged me 140.00 for that (including labor)
Jeez, Brake King does boot replacments around here for 39.99, 200.00 is insane. I had to get an Axle replaced and Brake King charged me 140.00 for that (including labor)
#10
Originally posted by MadMax95
Pep boys quoted me 200+ just to do one side... I got the whole axle and replaced it for $60 and about 45 minutes of my time...
Let me know if you have any questions on how to do it... I just did it three days ago...
Pep boys quoted me 200+ just to do one side... I got the whole axle and replaced it for $60 and about 45 minutes of my time...
Let me know if you have any questions on how to do it... I just did it three days ago...
#11
Originally posted by MadMax95
Most auto part stores can get them for you or tell you where to get them...
There is usually a core charge too, but you get that back when you bring back your new axle...
-Lift your car
-Take the wheel off
-Remove the Spindle nut, while applying the brakes
-Remove the Caliper
-Remove Rotor
-Remove Top Strut Bolt
-Now you should be able to bend the axle and the A-arm enough to slide the axle out.
-Then you have to tug on it to get it out of the tranny.
-Put your new one in, turn it till the teeth line up
-Use a rubber mallet or something to get it back in the tranny
-Put everything back on
-Get an alignment
-Drink a beer, you're done
Most auto part stores can get them for you or tell you where to get them...
There is usually a core charge too, but you get that back when you bring back your new axle...
-Lift your car
-Take the wheel off
-Remove the Spindle nut, while applying the brakes
-Remove the Caliper
-Remove Rotor
-Remove Top Strut Bolt
-Now you should be able to bend the axle and the A-arm enough to slide the axle out.
-Then you have to tug on it to get it out of the tranny.
-Put your new one in, turn it till the teeth line up
-Use a rubber mallet or something to get it back in the tranny
-Put everything back on
-Get an alignment
-Drink a beer, you're done
The procedure in the Chilton repair manual (page 7-4) calls for separating the steering knuckle from the ball joint. Advantage: no alignment is required afterward.
If you have a ball joint separator you can use the Chilton method and avoid the expense of the alignment. Don't use the common "pickle fork" style of separator because it may tear the rubber ball joint boot. Use the kind of separator which uses a forcing screw.
Some auto parts stores offer a no-cost loan of special tools if you buy the parts from them. Ask about that.
#12
CV boots..
I've heard that a lot of times when the boot is already ripped the entire CV joint may need to be replaced as a whole... My cv boots were ripped as I was getting my tranny rebuilt, the mechanic let me know about the ripped boots and they charged 100$ to do both sides. About 6 months later the joints began to make that clicking sound on turns. So I had to go ahead and replace both CV axle assemblies. I think what happens is, too much dirt and dust gets under when the boot is ripped and if it's not replaced right ASAP it wouldn't be very effective replacing just the boot after....
Anyways, the rates I paid was 90$ for just both boots and 150$ per side parts and labor included, for the entire CV joint assembly.
Dealer quoted me as much as 500$ to do CV joints.
Anyways, the rates I paid was 90$ for just both boots and 150$ per side parts and labor included, for the entire CV joint assembly.
Dealer quoted me as much as 500$ to do CV joints.
#13
Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
This is excellent! I cannot match your 45 minute repair time. What kind of axle did you get for $60? Remanufactured? Used?
This is excellent! I cannot match your 45 minute repair time. What kind of axle did you get for $60? Remanufactured? Used?
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