New Wheels and Rims
10-27-2000, 06:02 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Wassup all, I own a Black '98 Maxima SE and I need some help on deciding what kind of tires and rims would fit for my car. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm thinking about 18's right now but I need advice on where to buy, what brand, and all that good stuff.
-Meth
-Meth
10-27-2000, 10:46 PM
#2
10-27-2000, 10:48 PM
#3
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 5,363
Originally posted by Meth101
Wassup all, I own a Black '98 Maxima SE and I need some help on deciding what kind of tires and rims would fit for my car. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm thinking about 18's right now but I need advice on where to buy, what brand, and all that good stuff.
-Meth
Wassup all, I own a Black '98 Maxima SE and I need some help on deciding what kind of tires and rims would fit for my car. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm thinking about 18's right now but I need advice on where to buy, what brand, and all that good stuff.
-Meth
10-28-2000, 06:01 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 217
18's look sharp but depending upon where you drive
17's give a better ride compliance and have nice beefy look as well.- Not as easy to dent - and with aluminum wheels - if you dent em that's pretty much it. If you drive on wonderful smooth roads all the time don't worry about it.
for 17" 235/45
for 18" 235/40
These sizes keep your speedometer ratio's close enough.
You can go wider - 245 but then you'll get a bulge sticking out from the wells of the car. Besides - with 235 meat on there your car will stick like an M3. Have fun.
for 17" 235/45
for 18" 235/40
These sizes keep your speedometer ratio's close enough.
You can go wider - 245 but then you'll get a bulge sticking out from the wells of the car. Besides - with 235 meat on there your car will stick like an M3. Have fun.
10-29-2000, 04:00 AM
#5
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 577
Wheels and tires choices... what to buy
Hello:
If you haven't done any serious suspension mods, I would not recommend 18" wheels...
17" X 8" is plenty big enough... and that option requires coilovers with lower camber angles to keep treadwear even...
Wheels somewhat bigger than OEM is better but way bigger than stock is going back in the wrong direction...
With low profile tires, the overall form of the tire (sidewall and tread shape) is fairly rigid... Due to this, you will need a sufficiently stiff suspension and adequate camber to properly keep the 17" tire option squarely planted...
To keep a good even treadwear on 235/45/17 tires, you will need coilovers (around 350-400LBS/INCH springs) and be running at about -.5 degrees camber or less....
Now 16" X 7.5-8.00" wheels with a 225/50/16 will be more forgiving of less roll resistance (I.E. Eibach pro-kit, H&R springs, etc..) ... Since the overall form of the tire shape is less rigid, then the tread is planted with more even contact pressures even with bigger camber tolerances (due to higher body roll or static camber)...
So why go with big 17" sizes?? Well, the more rigid the sidewalls and tread are, the sharper response you get in steering feel... perhaps better braking feel and performance...
With a strut type suspension, the only way to apprecicably improve the stability of the contact patch is with significantly increased roll resistance... On more sophisticated suspensions (i.e. HONDA/ACURA double-wishbone), the suspension does a much more efficient job of keeping the tires square with the road even with higher body roll... so the car doesn't have to be as stiff... and they also have much less unsprung weight so thats is why you can see HONDA/ACURA cars (or anything with control-arm suspension) with ultra-low profile tires a lot more often...
If you haven't done any serious suspension mods, I would not recommend 18" wheels...
17" X 8" is plenty big enough... and that option requires coilovers with lower camber angles to keep treadwear even...
Wheels somewhat bigger than OEM is better but way bigger than stock is going back in the wrong direction...
With low profile tires, the overall form of the tire (sidewall and tread shape) is fairly rigid... Due to this, you will need a sufficiently stiff suspension and adequate camber to properly keep the 17" tire option squarely planted...
To keep a good even treadwear on 235/45/17 tires, you will need coilovers (around 350-400LBS/INCH springs) and be running at about -.5 degrees camber or less....
Now 16" X 7.5-8.00" wheels with a 225/50/16 will be more forgiving of less roll resistance (I.E. Eibach pro-kit, H&R springs, etc..) ... Since the overall form of the tire shape is less rigid, then the tread is planted with more even contact pressures even with bigger camber tolerances (due to higher body roll or static camber)...
So why go with big 17" sizes?? Well, the more rigid the sidewalls and tread are, the sharper response you get in steering feel... perhaps better braking feel and performance...
With a strut type suspension, the only way to apprecicably improve the stability of the contact patch is with significantly increased roll resistance... On more sophisticated suspensions (i.e. HONDA/ACURA double-wishbone), the suspension does a much more efficient job of keeping the tires square with the road even with higher body roll... so the car doesn't have to be as stiff... and they also have much less unsprung weight so thats is why you can see HONDA/ACURA cars (or anything with control-arm suspension) with ultra-low profile tires a lot more often...
10-29-2000, 05:58 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 866
Re: Wheels and tires choices... what to buy
Originally posted by chris j vurnis
Hello:
If you haven't done any serious suspension mods, I would not recommend 18" wheels...
17" X 8" is plenty big enough... and that option requires coilovers with lower camber angles to keep treadwear even...
Wheels somewhat bigger than OEM is better but way bigger than stock is going back in the wrong direction...
With low profile tires, the overall form of the tire (sidewall and tread shape) is fairly rigid... Due to this, you will need a sufficiently stiff suspension and adequate camber to properly keep the 17" tire option squarely planted...
To keep a good even treadwear on 235/45/17 tires, you will need coilovers (around 350-400LBS/INCH springs) and be running at about -.5 degrees camber or less....
Now 16" X 7.5-8.00" wheels with a 225/50/16 will be more forgiving of less roll resistance (I.E. Eibach pro-kit, H&R springs, etc..) ... Since the overall form of the tire shape is less rigid, then the tread is planted with more even contact pressures even with bigger camber tolerances (due to higher body roll or static camber)...
So why go with big 17" sizes?? Well, the more rigid the sidewalls and tread are, the sharper response you get in steering feel... perhaps better braking feel and performance...
With a strut type suspension, the only way to apprecicably improve the stability of the contact patch is with significantly increased roll resistance... On more sophisticated suspensions (i.e. HONDA/ACURA double-wishbone), the suspension does a much more efficient job of keeping the tires square with the road even with higher body roll... so the car doesn't have to be as stiff... and they also have much less unsprung weight so thats is why you can see HONDA/ACURA cars (or anything with control-arm suspension) with ultra-low profile tires a lot more often...
Hello:
If you haven't done any serious suspension mods, I would not recommend 18" wheels...
17" X 8" is plenty big enough... and that option requires coilovers with lower camber angles to keep treadwear even...
Wheels somewhat bigger than OEM is better but way bigger than stock is going back in the wrong direction...
With low profile tires, the overall form of the tire (sidewall and tread shape) is fairly rigid... Due to this, you will need a sufficiently stiff suspension and adequate camber to properly keep the 17" tire option squarely planted...
To keep a good even treadwear on 235/45/17 tires, you will need coilovers (around 350-400LBS/INCH springs) and be running at about -.5 degrees camber or less....
Now 16" X 7.5-8.00" wheels with a 225/50/16 will be more forgiving of less roll resistance (I.E. Eibach pro-kit, H&R springs, etc..) ... Since the overall form of the tire shape is less rigid, then the tread is planted with more even contact pressures even with bigger camber tolerances (due to higher body roll or static camber)...
So why go with big 17" sizes?? Well, the more rigid the sidewalls and tread are, the sharper response you get in steering feel... perhaps better braking feel and performance...
With a strut type suspension, the only way to apprecicably improve the stability of the contact patch is with significantly increased roll resistance... On more sophisticated suspensions (i.e. HONDA/ACURA double-wishbone), the suspension does a much more efficient job of keeping the tires square with the road even with higher body roll... so the car doesn't have to be as stiff... and they also have much less unsprung weight so thats is why you can see HONDA/ACURA cars (or anything with control-arm suspension) with ultra-low profile tires a lot more often...
The wheels look good on the car. They perform MUCH better than stock. They help nurture an image of STEALTHY urban assault vehicle: They do not shout, "Hey, I got wheels!" The springs closed the gap in the fender well by 1.4". I have less dive under braking and better grip to stop, go, and corner. And, of course, I get a lot of compliments about them from friends, associates, and even total [female] strangers... Nice side benefit, huh? Later...
10-29-2000, 06:45 AM
#7
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,931
Re: Wheels and tires choices... what to buy
Originally posted by chris j vurnis
Hello:
17" X 8" is plenty big enough... and that option requires coilovers with lower camber angles to keep treadwear even...
To keep a good even treadwear on 235/45/17 tires, you will need coilovers (around 350-400LBS/INCH springs) and be running at about -.5 degrees camber or less....
With a strut type suspension, the only way to apprecicably improve the stability of the contact patch is with significantly increased roll resistance... On more sophisticated suspensions (i.e. HONDA/ACURA double-wishbone), the suspension does a much more efficient job of keeping the tires square with the road even with higher body roll... so the car doesn't have to be as stiff... and they also have much less unsprung weight so thats is why you can see HONDA/ACURA cars (or anything with control-arm suspension) with ultra-low profile tires a lot more often...
Hello:
17" X 8" is plenty big enough... and that option requires coilovers with lower camber angles to keep treadwear even...
To keep a good even treadwear on 235/45/17 tires, you will need coilovers (around 350-400LBS/INCH springs) and be running at about -.5 degrees camber or less....
With a strut type suspension, the only way to apprecicably improve the stability of the contact patch is with significantly increased roll resistance... On more sophisticated suspensions (i.e. HONDA/ACURA double-wishbone), the suspension does a much more efficient job of keeping the tires square with the road even with higher body roll... so the car doesn't have to be as stiff... and they also have much less unsprung weight so thats is why you can see HONDA/ACURA cars (or anything with control-arm suspension) with ultra-low profile tires a lot more often...
I disagree. With my Eibach/Tokico suspension, my camber settings were set to within the specified range, and my 235/45ZR/17s have had even tire wear. Coilovers are not required for 17s or 18s.
10-29-2000, 07:03 AM
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: Wheels and tires choices... what to buy
Thanks for replying people, I got some great information. This is my first time on this site so im a newbie. What mods should I do first? Should I go for the wheels and rims first?
-Meth
-Meth
Originally posted by Micah95GLE
I disagree. With my Eibach/Tokico suspension, my camber settings were set to within the specified range, and my 235/45ZR/17s have had even tire wear. Coilovers are not required for 17s or 18s.
Originally posted by chris j vurnis
Hello:
17" X 8" is plenty big enough... and that option requires coilovers with lower camber angles to keep treadwear even...
To keep a good even treadwear on 235/45/17 tires, you will need coilovers (around 350-400LBS/INCH springs) and be running at about -.5 degrees camber or less....
With a strut type suspension, the only way to apprecicably improve the stability of the contact patch is with significantly increased roll resistance... On more sophisticated suspensions (i.e. HONDA/ACURA double-wishbone), the suspension does a much more efficient job of keeping the tires square with the road even with higher body roll... so the car doesn't have to be as stiff... and they also have much less unsprung weight so thats is why you can see HONDA/ACURA cars (or anything with control-arm suspension) with ultra-low profile tires a lot more often...
Hello:
17" X 8" is plenty big enough... and that option requires coilovers with lower camber angles to keep treadwear even...
To keep a good even treadwear on 235/45/17 tires, you will need coilovers (around 350-400LBS/INCH springs) and be running at about -.5 degrees camber or less....
With a strut type suspension, the only way to apprecicably improve the stability of the contact patch is with significantly increased roll resistance... On more sophisticated suspensions (i.e. HONDA/ACURA double-wishbone), the suspension does a much more efficient job of keeping the tires square with the road even with higher body roll... so the car doesn't have to be as stiff... and they also have much less unsprung weight so thats is why you can see HONDA/ACURA cars (or anything with control-arm suspension) with ultra-low profile tires a lot more often...
I disagree. With my Eibach/Tokico suspension, my camber settings were set to within the specified range, and my 235/45ZR/17s have had even tire wear. Coilovers are not required for 17s or 18s.
10-29-2000, 07:13 AM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 866
Re: Re: Re: Wheels and tires choices... what to buy
Originally posted by Meth101
Thanks for replying people, I got some great information. This is my first time on this site so im a newbie. What mods should I do first? Should I go for the wheels and rims first?
-Meth
Probably a great difference of opinion on this, OK? Personally, I started with handling items:
1. Tires and rims.
2. Suspension Techniques lowering springs & Tokico struts
3. Stillen Rear Sway Bar (RSB)
4. Stillen Front & Rear Strut Tower Braces
I decided that if I were going to increase the HP, I better lay some ground work first... In retrospect, I think I did the right thing. Goodluck.
Thanks for replying people, I got some great information. This is my first time on this site so im a newbie. What mods should I do first? Should I go for the wheels and rims first?
-Meth
Probably a great difference of opinion on this, OK? Personally, I started with handling items:
1. Tires and rims.
2. Suspension Techniques lowering springs & Tokico struts
3. Stillen Rear Sway Bar (RSB)
4. Stillen Front & Rear Strut Tower Braces
I decided that if I were going to increase the HP, I better lay some ground work first... In retrospect, I think I did the right thing. Goodluck.
Originally posted by Micah95GLE
I disagree. With my Eibach/Tokico suspension, my camber settings were set to within the specified range, and my 235/45ZR/17s have had even tire wear. Coilovers are not required for 17s or 18s.
Originally posted by chris j vurnis
Hello:
17" X 8" is plenty big enough... and that option requires coilovers with lower camber angles to keep treadwear even...
To keep a good even treadwear on 235/45/17 tires, you will need coilovers (around 350-400LBS/INCH springs) and be running at about -.5 degrees camber or less....
With a strut type suspension, the only way to apprecicably improve the stability of the contact patch is with significantly increased roll resistance... On more sophisticated suspensions (i.e. HONDA/ACURA double-wishbone), the suspension does a much more efficient job of keeping the tires square with the road even with higher body roll... so the car doesn't have to be as stiff... and they also have much less unsprung weight so thats is why you can see HONDA/ACURA cars (or anything with control-arm suspension) with ultra-low profile tires a lot more often...
Hello:
17" X 8" is plenty big enough... and that option requires coilovers with lower camber angles to keep treadwear even...
To keep a good even treadwear on 235/45/17 tires, you will need coilovers (around 350-400LBS/INCH springs) and be running at about -.5 degrees camber or less....
With a strut type suspension, the only way to apprecicably improve the stability of the contact patch is with significantly increased roll resistance... On more sophisticated suspensions (i.e. HONDA/ACURA double-wishbone), the suspension does a much more efficient job of keeping the tires square with the road even with higher body roll... so the car doesn't have to be as stiff... and they also have much less unsprung weight so thats is why you can see HONDA/ACURA cars (or anything with control-arm suspension) with ultra-low profile tires a lot more often...
I disagree. With my Eibach/Tokico suspension, my camber settings were set to within the specified range, and my 235/45ZR/17s have had even tire wear. Coilovers are not required for 17s or 18s.
10-29-2000, 09:07 AM
#11
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 2,931
No, they aren't needed. They are worth the premium over regular springs and dampers for only two reasons: serious road racing and car show competition. If you are just looking for improved street performance, springs and dampers is all you need, and, with correct alignment, you will have no problems. My first set of Z-rated tires lasted for over 20K miles (a little longer than was expected) with regular aggressive driving, and the wear was even. My current tires are doing well, too, with 25K miles and plenty of tread (and I haven't rotated them as much as I should have, either).
10-29-2000, 03:56 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 146
Meth,
I recommend you get your car those "new shoes".
Especially new performance tires. The stock tires
(at least on my max) sucked. No Grip. Besides,
what would be the point of more horses or upgraded suspension if your tires can't hang on to the road?
I recommend you get your car those "new shoes".
Especially new performance tires. The stock tires
(at least on my max) sucked. No Grip. Besides,
what would be the point of more horses or upgraded suspension if your tires can't hang on to the road?
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