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My car acting weird!

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Old Sep 15, 2001 | 12:07 AM
  #1  
190hpKiLLA's Avatar
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I have a 5spd! If it makes a difference in RPMs at idle.

Today I noticed that when I turn on my lights the RPMs drop to like 600 from 650 the steering wheel starts shaking lightly. There is noise coming through the firewall like D'D'D'D'D'D'D. When I open my hood its pretty quiet. Then when I come to complete stop the RPMS drop to 500 and then back to 650. Its happens suddently! Like at the stop sign.

I did use the tube to find the problem but I cant. Everyhting is quiet. The lights drain a lot of RPMs.

I have noticed before that it makes that d'd'd'd sound when you press the brake at idle. Any clue.
Old Sep 15, 2001 | 08:00 AM
  #2  
Lime's Avatar
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tuneup time. how recently have you changed your sparkplugs, fuel filter, oil filter?? Other than that, it could be the EGR valve, if the max has one like my old car did.
Old Sep 15, 2001 | 08:37 AM
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Daniel B. Martin's Avatar
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Do the twist!

Originally posted by 190hpKiLLA
I have a 5spd! If it makes a difference in RPMs at idle.

Today I noticed that when I turn on my lights the RPMs drop to like 600 from 650 the steering wheel starts shaking lightly. There is noise coming through the firewall like D'D'D'D'D'D'D. When I open my hood its pretty quiet. Then when I come to complete stop the RPMS drop to 500 and then back to 650. Its happens suddently! Like at the stop sign.

I did use the tube to find the problem but I cant. Everyhting is quiet. The lights drain a lot of RPMs.

I have noticed before that it makes that d'd'd'd sound when you press the brake at idle. Any clue.
This reply addresses the d'd'd'd sound but not the idle speed.

The sound may be emanating from the hood rattling against the hood latch and that's the reason you don't hear it with the hood raised. Here's an easy experiment which might also be a "fix".

1) Raise the hood.

2) Identify the radiator support. This is the stamped steel member which extends from fender to fender, immediately behind the headlights and in front of the radiator.

3) At the extreme left and right ends of the radiator support you will find cylindrical black rubber cushions which support the corners of the hood when it is closed. These cushions are spiral cut. That means you can change the height just by twisting, as if it were a bolt. Twist both cushions counterclockwise 1/2 turn. No tools required; you can do this with fingers. Elapsed time: less than one minute.

4) Close the hood. Test drive the vehicle. If you are lucky the unwanted sound will be gone.
Old Sep 15, 2001 | 02:36 PM
  #4  
190hpKiLLA's Avatar
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Re: Do the twist!

Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
This reply addresses the d'd'd'd sound but not the idle speed.

The sound may be emanating from the hood rattling against the hood latch and that's the reason you don't hear it with the hood raised. Here's an easy experiment which might also be a "fix".

1) Raise the hood.

2) Identify the radiator support. This is the stamped steel member which extends from fender to fender, immediately behind the headlights and in front of the radiator.

3) At the extreme left and right ends of the radiator support you will find cylindrical black rubber cushions which support the corners of the hood when it is closed. These cushions are spiral cut. That means you can change the height just by twisting, as if it were a bolt. Twist both cushions counterclockwise 1/2 turn. No tools required; you can do this with fingers. Elapsed time: less than one minute.

4) Close the hood. Test drive the vehicle. If you are lucky the unwanted sound will be gone.
Lets forget about the noise! It might be my imagination and 111K kicking in. The RPM drop.
The car is on. I turn on the lights and they drop to 600 even, slight vibration in the wheel. Altanator meter is not on 14 but end of the red almost touching the green but not much.( I am talking about the altanator meter that tells how much charge it gives).
1- should the car do that?
2-I probably didnt notice it?
3- my altanator was changed with a rebiult one and warranty running out on Oct 28th 2001. please help Daniel B martin and other wonderful people.
Old Sep 15, 2001 | 02:58 PM
  #5  
Daniel B. Martin's Avatar
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Re: Re: Do the twist!

Originally posted by 190hpKiLLA


Lets forget about the noise! It might be my imagination and 111K kicking in. The RPM drop.
The car is on. I turn on the lights and they drop to 600 even, slight vibration in the wheel. Altanator meter is not on 14 but end of the red almost touching the green but not much.( I am talking about the altanator meter that tells how much charge it gives).
1- should the car do that?
2-I probably didnt notice it?
3- my altanator was changed with a rebiult one and warranty running out on Oct 28th 2001. please help Daniel B martin and other wonderful people.
Here is some text copied from the factory service manual.

"Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) -- Auxiliary Air Control (AAC) Valve

This system automatically controls engine idle speed to a specified level.
Idle speed is controlled through fine adjustment of the amount of air which
bypasses the throttle valve via the IACV-AAC valve. The IACV-AAC valve
changes the opening of the air bypass passage to control the amount of
auxiliary air. ... "


The correct idle speed is...
- 700 +/- 50 (automatic transmission, in Neutral)
- 625 +/- 50 (5-speed)

Here's the factory service manual component inspection procedure for the IACV-AAC.

1) Make this test with the ignition key OFF. Disconnect the IACV-AAC valve harness connector.

2) Looking into the valve connector with the latch at the top, you will see two rows with three terminal positions in each. They are numbered 1-3 (top row, right to left) and 4-6 (bottom row, right to left). Check resistance between the following terminals.
2 and 1.
2 and 3.
5 and 4.
5 and 6.
At a temperature of 68 F, the reading for all measurements should be approximately 30 ohms.

3) Reconnect the IACV-AAC valve harness connector.

4) Remove the idle air adjusting unit assembly (IACV-AAC valve is built-in) from engine. The IACV-AAC valve harness connector should remain connected.

5) Turn ignition switch ON and OFF, and verify that the IACV-AAC valve shaft smoothly moves forward and backward. If NG, replace the IACV-AAC valve.


There are other engine parts which play a role in maintaining the right idle
speed, but the IACV-AAC is the first thing to look at. Good luck!
Old Sep 15, 2001 | 06:32 PM
  #6  
matty's Avatar
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From: Northern Jersey
another question

I get that same drop in RPM's and I havent got around to cleaning that valve yet cause I dont know what to clean it with ? but thats not my question

-Will the rpm's drop alittle bit when I release my finger from the window switch after putting the window up or down when that valve is dirty ???

Its almost 100 Rpm's almost not even that

-matt
Old Sep 15, 2001 | 08:22 PM
  #7  
24KP-I-M-P's Avatar
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just hit the dash board... works in movies.
Old Sep 15, 2001 | 11:25 PM
  #8  
BlkStnValyMaxima's Avatar
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From: Worcester County, MA
600 RPM's is not a low RPM speed. When warm that's what my car Idle's at. Hey, Maybe you should cut a hole in your fender.
Old Sep 15, 2001 | 11:36 PM
  #9  
190hpKiLLA's Avatar
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Originally posted by BlkStnValyMaxima
600 RPM's is not a low RPM speed. When warm that's what my car Idle's at. Hey, Maybe you should cut a hole in your fender.
Hole? Fender?
Old Sep 16, 2001 | 12:05 AM
  #10  
Sonic's Avatar
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From: Westchester County, NY
Originally posted by 190hpKiLLA


Hole? Fender?
CAI
Old Sep 16, 2001 | 12:09 AM
  #11  
190hpKiLLA's Avatar
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Originally posted by medicsonic


CAI
Why would that solve the problem?
Old Sep 16, 2001 | 12:43 AM
  #12  
NZ Max's Avatar
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Originally posted by 190hpKiLLA


Why would that solve the problem?
{NZ MAX Laughs after seeing post about the hole in fender mod for cai}
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