HELP!!!! Standard Transmission
#1
HELP!!!! Standard Transmission
Ok, so I bought a new clutch and aluminum flywheel installed everything...and everything works great. But, lost the ability to down shift. Ok let me rephrase that I can down shift to 4th and to 3rd but going from 3rd to 2nd I get a grind. I can't down shift to second unless I slow down tremendously (obviously so the gears catch up with the gear I'm in) What could be the problem. I'm thinking it could by my synchronizer, but it was able to downshift before I put the new clutch and flywheel in. Any ideas...and if it is the the synchronizers...I heard it cost a pretty penny to replace that...well I guess for all the labor and I don't know if I'm ready to try to take apart a transmission to replace the synchronizers. If I need to replace the synchronizers I might as well get a new transmission, and I was thinking of maybe mating the new 6-speed (is that possible)??? All input would be greatly appreciated thanks.
#2
Re: HELP!!!! Standard Transmission
Originally posted by Mr Cranman
Ok, so I bought a new clutch and aluminum flywheel installed everything...and everything works great. But, lost the ability to down shift. Ok let me rephrase that I can down shift to 4th and to 3rd but going from 3rd to 2nd I get a grind. I can't down shift to second unless I slow down tremendously (obviously so the gears catch up with the gear I'm in) What could be the problem. I'm thinking it could by my synchronizer, but it was able to downshift before I put the new clutch and flywheel in. Any ideas...and if it is the the synchronizers...I heard it cost a pretty penny to replace that...well I guess for all the labor and I don't know if I'm ready to try to take apart a transmission to replace the synchronizers. If I need to replace the synchronizers I might as well get a new transmission, and I was thinking of maybe mating the new 6-speed (is that possible)??? All input would be greatly appreciated thanks.
Ok, so I bought a new clutch and aluminum flywheel installed everything...and everything works great. But, lost the ability to down shift. Ok let me rephrase that I can down shift to 4th and to 3rd but going from 3rd to 2nd I get a grind. I can't down shift to second unless I slow down tremendously (obviously so the gears catch up with the gear I'm in) What could be the problem. I'm thinking it could by my synchronizer, but it was able to downshift before I put the new clutch and flywheel in. Any ideas...and if it is the the synchronizers...I heard it cost a pretty penny to replace that...well I guess for all the labor and I don't know if I'm ready to try to take apart a transmission to replace the synchronizers. If I need to replace the synchronizers I might as well get a new transmission, and I was thinking of maybe mating the new 6-speed (is that possible)??? All input would be greatly appreciated thanks.
In order to install the new clutch you had to remove the transmission. You probably drained the old lubricant. When you installed the tranny, did you remember to refill with fresh lube?
Difficult shifting may be caused by a dragging clutch. A dragging clutch is one which does not fully disengage, even when the clutch pedal is all the way down. This could be caused by ...
- wrong part number for new clutch
- driven disk installed backwards
- a foreign body caught inside the clutch cover
- clutch cover (pressure plate) bolts not properly tightened
- bent or cracked clutch withdrawal lever
- hydraulic clutch actuator malfunction (fluid level?)
#4
Re: Re: HELP!!!! Standard Transmission
Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
Each gear has its own synchronizer mechanism. You wouldn't get several synchros to wear out simultaneously, all at the same time as you replaced the clutch. This problem is tied in with the new clutch or its installation.
In order to install the new clutch you had to remove the transmission. You probably drained the old lubricant. When you installed the tranny, did you remember to refill with fresh lube?
Difficult shifting may be caused by a dragging clutch. A dragging clutch is one which does not fully disengage, even when the clutch pedal is all the way down. This could be caused by ...
- wrong part number for new clutch
- driven disk installed backwards
- a foreign body caught inside the clutch cover
- clutch cover (pressure plate) bolts not properly tightened
- bent or cracked clutch withdrawal lever
- hydraulic clutch actuator malfunction (fluid level?)
Each gear has its own synchronizer mechanism. You wouldn't get several synchros to wear out simultaneously, all at the same time as you replaced the clutch. This problem is tied in with the new clutch or its installation.
In order to install the new clutch you had to remove the transmission. You probably drained the old lubricant. When you installed the tranny, did you remember to refill with fresh lube?
Difficult shifting may be caused by a dragging clutch. A dragging clutch is one which does not fully disengage, even when the clutch pedal is all the way down. This could be caused by ...
- wrong part number for new clutch
- driven disk installed backwards
- a foreign body caught inside the clutch cover
- clutch cover (pressure plate) bolts not properly tightened
- bent or cracked clutch withdrawal lever
- hydraulic clutch actuator malfunction (fluid level?)
#5
Re: HELP!!!! Standard Transmission
Yeah, sound like a synchro is possibly gone bad. Maybe the gears aren't lubed enough after the clutch change.
One way to combat sychros from going bad is to matching the engine speed to gear or toe-heel shifting. Say you are going 40mph and want to downshift to 2nd. 40mph in 2nd would probably be like 4500-5000rpm, so you would rev the motor to about that range +or- 500rpms and let off the clutch. By doing so, you will make that transition a lot smoother so it is not as jerky. Thus, this is much easier on the hardware.
Good luck.
One way to combat sychros from going bad is to matching the engine speed to gear or toe-heel shifting. Say you are going 40mph and want to downshift to 2nd. 40mph in 2nd would probably be like 4500-5000rpm, so you would rev the motor to about that range +or- 500rpms and let off the clutch. By doing so, you will make that transition a lot smoother so it is not as jerky. Thus, this is much easier on the hardware.
Good luck.
#6
Re: Re: Re: HELP!!!! Standard Transmission
Originally posted by Mr Cranman
... is it complicated taking the tranmission apart???? ...
... is it complicated taking the tranmission apart???? ...
... I know it is my own risk but would you suggest taking the transmission apart myself to save on the labor and replacing the synchronizers ...
In the left window click on Transmission
In the left window click on Disassembly
This is an excellent Web site for the home mechanic. You may enjoy browsing all of it.
... maybe just dropping the tranny and taking it to a shop to have them replace it so not to cost as much in labor???
#7
Honestly?
Because you installed aluminum flywheel, the revs are going to drop dramaticly when you put the tranny in neutral. This will make downshifting harder than before.
If the tranny was shifting well before, there is no reason to suspect it now(assuming you installed everything correct)
Try bleeding the slave cylinder again and check it for leakage. A preformance pressure plate will put more stress on the slave since it now takes more pressure to push on it.
Try double clutching and see if that helps.
If you don't know how to work on transmissions, the maxima one is not really a good one to start on. You don't really know if you have done everything right until you get the thing installed again. Then if you did something wrong, you have to take the tranny out again + it's now 3x as hard to figure out what you did wrong. There is a reason why rebuilds cost $1,300+, it's damn hard to work on.
Because you installed aluminum flywheel, the revs are going to drop dramaticly when you put the tranny in neutral. This will make downshifting harder than before.
If the tranny was shifting well before, there is no reason to suspect it now(assuming you installed everything correct)
Try bleeding the slave cylinder again and check it for leakage. A preformance pressure plate will put more stress on the slave since it now takes more pressure to push on it.
Try double clutching and see if that helps.
If you don't know how to work on transmissions, the maxima one is not really a good one to start on. You don't really know if you have done everything right until you get the thing installed again. Then if you did something wrong, you have to take the tranny out again + it's now 3x as hard to figure out what you did wrong. There is a reason why rebuilds cost $1,300+, it's damn hard to work on.
#8
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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I had a Honda that did the exact same thing. Turned out it was excessive clutch drag. Being this problem started when you put the new clutch in, I bet your having the same problem. Bleading the slave cylinder is a good start. I'm not so sure where to point you to find out what causes clutch drag, my Honda was fixed by the dealer who put the clutch in new. Might wanna give a transmission shop a call and see what they have to say regarding clutch drag.
Good luck and stay calm, I'm sure your transmission is just fine.
Good luck and stay calm, I'm sure your transmission is just fine.
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