Auto Tranny Fluid Change
09-22-2001, 08:30 AM
#1
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Auto Tranny Fluid Change
I am thinking about changing my auto tranny oil to synthetic today. It was changed first at 25k and now its at 50k. I also want to put a tranny fuild coooler on. I was trying to find out how much fluid I need to buy and did a search (IT WORKED!!) but I am not sure if I got the correct answer. I saw the 5-speeds need 5-6 quarts and I saw in some post that if you take your own oil to a shop they need 12 to 16 quarts for an auto. I thought that was a big difference and wanted to make sure first. If anyone knows of any write ups on changing the fluid, please let me know. Thanks.
09-22-2001, 09:10 AM
#3
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Re: Auto Tranny Fluid Change
Originally posted by WaarrEagle
I am thinking about changing my auto tranny oil to synthetic today. It was changed first at 25k and now its at 50k. I also want to put a tranny fuild coooler on. I was trying to find out how much fluid I need to buy and did a search (IT WORKED!!) but I am not sure if I got the correct answer. I saw the 5-speeds need 5-6 quarts and I saw in some post that if you take your own oil to a shop they need 12 to 16 quarts for an auto. I thought that was a big difference and wanted to make sure first. If anyone knows of any write ups on changing the fluid, please let me know. Thanks.
I am thinking about changing my auto tranny oil to synthetic today. It was changed first at 25k and now its at 50k. I also want to put a tranny fuild coooler on. I was trying to find out how much fluid I need to buy and did a search (IT WORKED!!) but I am not sure if I got the correct answer. I saw the 5-speeds need 5-6 quarts and I saw in some post that if you take your own oil to a shop they need 12 to 16 quarts for an auto. I thought that was a big difference and wanted to make sure first. If anyone knows of any write ups on changing the fluid, please let me know. Thanks.
Method 1) An ordinary drain-and-refill may be done by the home mechanic. This method changes only about half of the fluid, but is easy and inexpensive. The cost is 4 or 5 quarts of ATF, plus your time. This is done with by removing a drain plug similar to the engine oil drain plug. There is no need to remove the transmission pan.
Method 2) Most commercial service facilities use the Magic Sucker Pump which changes all of the fluid. The cost is about US$80. The fluid capacity of the automatic transmission is 10 quarts. However, the Magic Sucker Pump spits out some incoming (new) fluid along with the old fluid. Therefore, if you want the shop to use your own fluid, bring 12-14 quarts.
My Maxima is a 5-speed so the issue of ATF change does not apply. I maintain a Honda Accord for a family member. On that car I do a drain-and-refill ATF change with every oil change. It is not a big deal, as the car is already up on jackstands and my hands are already dirty. This costs about US$8/year in ATF and the car is always running on almost-new ATF.
09-22-2001, 02:21 PM
#5
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DBM told you all you need to know already, but here's my input as well.
I've been using Redline D4ATF for some time now. First got a drain and refill with it at 30k, then a complete flush at 45k using Jiffy Lube's T-tech service (needs 12 quarts or more, very expensive since Redline is $8/quart). The drain and refill uses approx 4 quarts.
Don't expect smoother shifts with synthetic over regular ATF. The Maxima's automatic isn't smooth to begin with, and there's not much you can do to make it smoother. Synthetic's main advantage is that is resists thermal breakdown better than conventional ATF (much like how synthetic oil protects a little better than dino oil under extreme conditions). In my opinion, synthetic ATF is not needed unless you drive your automatic very hard. It's tough to justify the $8/quart premium Redline has over normal ATF. Conventional ATF at 15k drain and refill intervals should provide good protection.
I installed my tranny cooler myself. Not too hard at all. Just have lots of rags around since ATF will drip from the cooling lines during the install.
I've been using Redline D4ATF for some time now. First got a drain and refill with it at 30k, then a complete flush at 45k using Jiffy Lube's T-tech service (needs 12 quarts or more, very expensive since Redline is $8/quart). The drain and refill uses approx 4 quarts.
Don't expect smoother shifts with synthetic over regular ATF. The Maxima's automatic isn't smooth to begin with, and there's not much you can do to make it smoother. Synthetic's main advantage is that is resists thermal breakdown better than conventional ATF (much like how synthetic oil protects a little better than dino oil under extreme conditions). In my opinion, synthetic ATF is not needed unless you drive your automatic very hard. It's tough to justify the $8/quart premium Redline has over normal ATF. Conventional ATF at 15k drain and refill intervals should provide good protection.
I installed my tranny cooler myself. Not too hard at all. Just have lots of rags around since ATF will drip from the cooling lines during the install.
09-22-2001, 08:26 PM
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Originally posted by Eric L.
DBM told you all you need to know already, but here's my input as well.
I've been using Redline D4ATF for some time now. First got a drain and refill with it at 30k, then a complete flush at 45k using Jiffy Lube's T-tech service (needs 12 quarts or more, very expensive since Redline is $8/quart). The drain and refill uses approx 4 quarts.
Don't expect smoother shifts with synthetic over regular ATF. The Maxima's automatic isn't smooth to begin with, and there's not much you can do to make it smoother. Synthetic's main advantage is that is resists thermal breakdown better than conventional ATF (much like how synthetic oil protects a little better than dino oil under extreme conditions). In my opinion, synthetic ATF is not needed unless you drive your automatic very hard. It's tough to justify the $8/quart premium Redline has over normal ATF. Conventional ATF at 15k drain and refill intervals should provide good protection.
I installed my tranny cooler myself. Not too hard at all. Just have lots of rags around since ATF will drip from the cooling lines during the install.
DBM told you all you need to know already, but here's my input as well.
I've been using Redline D4ATF for some time now. First got a drain and refill with it at 30k, then a complete flush at 45k using Jiffy Lube's T-tech service (needs 12 quarts or more, very expensive since Redline is $8/quart). The drain and refill uses approx 4 quarts.
Don't expect smoother shifts with synthetic over regular ATF. The Maxima's automatic isn't smooth to begin with, and there's not much you can do to make it smoother. Synthetic's main advantage is that is resists thermal breakdown better than conventional ATF (much like how synthetic oil protects a little better than dino oil under extreme conditions). In my opinion, synthetic ATF is not needed unless you drive your automatic very hard. It's tough to justify the $8/quart premium Redline has over normal ATF. Conventional ATF at 15k drain and refill intervals should provide good protection.
I installed my tranny cooler myself. Not too hard at all. Just have lots of rags around since ATF will drip from the cooling lines during the install.
03-01-2002, 09:43 AM
#9
To bring this post back alive......
My car has a jerky ride now....I've been searching.....will doing a ATF Flush smooth the ride in any way??? Is there performance ATF? Whats the diference compared to regular? Will a VB Mod smooth the ride too???? The car is jerky when up and downshifting.......
Thank You
Chris
Thank You
Chris
03-02-2002, 07:19 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 191
Here is a very good straight forward link regarding ATF fluid changes etc. www.amsoil.com/faqs/faq8.htm 96 se auto 166,300 miles all amsoil lubricants/filtration, RedLINE "Water Wetter" Super Strict Maintenance
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