I have a 1996 4th generation model Maxima SE with a 4-speed automatic transmission. Some time ago (before winter - that's around May in NZ for you northern folk) it appeared to exibit slow change-up from 1st to 3rd gear. It wasn't that pronounced at first and I had assumed it to be a cold weather phemonena (-0C) and it continued to drive perfectly. Slowly over time I just got into the habit of lifting off the accelerator pedal at around 3,ooo rpm to ease it down a gear (into 3rd it appears). It is apparent now that it is slipping through 2nd without engaging it at all and the O/D appear to also not be engaging. I have searched and searched for any history of other owners experiences on the web but have had little luck to date with anything specifically similar. I have posted a couple or questions on various car forums I have stumbled acros but have to date received no reply. This forum looks like a possible solution. In fact regardless of any solution for my particular problem I will recommend it to other NZ Nissan owners as a great source of information. Still, I would really be interested if anyone has experienced a similar problem and might know the likely cause in the first instance and further more what might be the outlook for repair. I purchased this car some 3 years ago (130,000km, now 150,000km) to use as a family vehicle, from the company for which I work, assuming it had received good maintenance. I love it to drive but we have had one or two problems that has taken the shine off the ownership sonewhat. We have only used it for one or two long family vacations and general tripping around (no towing). Not long after we took possession I noticed a clicking sound. This turned out to be a very expensive (NZ$1,500, mainly labour I recall) discovery as it was discovered that an internal timing belt tensioner had worn out due most probably to poor oil feed. I discoeverd that the car service history only ran until 70,000 and what happened after that is anyones guess. Apparently the oil filters are very particluar and dirty oil will clog the fine filtration which in turn can cause all sorts of problems. About 6 months ago, the crusie control required repair, and now this... So you can see, I am fast starting to loose confidence in the car. We did follow an establish regular 12 month service with the local agent after the first incident to ensure that the car was well maintained. I assume as a Nissan agent they perform regular checks on all critical components such as oil, transmission fluid, bearing and the like. We are now being advised by them not to drive the vehicle and are being quoted a minimum NZ$2,500 to have repairs (clutch pad replacement). As you may appreciate, I am a bit reluctant to inject more money into a dying horse, especially given that the local repair agent has little experience in these matters (they were on a steep learning curve on the last major repair job). I feel like I am funding their in-house vehicle training programme on this model of car as they are (supposed) to be so... reliable that they "never ever repair them". "Your's is the first one..." really cuts no mustard.
I have read annecdotes that allude to transmission fluid, solenoids, etc. Does anyone have a better diagnosis (or better still experience)?
- My apologies for the long post, although it is kinda cathartic.

 

Autos are cheap.. I know a guy that did the 5 speed conversion and still has his AUTo.. He will sell it for like $550-650 i suspect.. You can put it in in 2 days (much less after the first time) but any tranny shop can do it pretty fair.. i suspect you have a $900 problem on your hands.. Here is Harolds write-up about the conversion, and his email is there to.. So just email him.. Shipping was $70 or something via UPS.
http://www.stormpages.com/autoto5spd/

 

Thank you for your long and detailed symptom report. Boiled down to bare bones, you have only 1st and 3rd gear in your automatic transmission.

Your automatic transmission has two shift solenoids, designated A and B.
They control which of the four forward speeds the transmission is using.

Here's how the shift solenoids control the gear selection:
1st gear: A=on B=on
2nd gear: A=off B=on
3rd gear: A=off B=off
4th gear: A=on B=off

I can't account for a lack of 2nd and 4th gears. Is it possible that you are actually lacking 1st and 4th gears? That malfunction could arise if shift solenoid A is always off (or the valve is jammed so it behaves as if A is always off).

You can do some troubleshooting without opening the transmission. Find the harnesses which emanate from the transaxle. One of them terminates in a brown plastic connector with eight pins. This is connector F42, and is located (approximately) above the transaxle case and below the black plastic engine air intake ductwork. With the engine off, disconnect F42. You want to measure the transmission side of F42. Hold the connector such that the plastic latch is at the top. You should now see two rows of four terminals. These are numbered (top row, left to right) 1 - 4, and (bottom row, left to right) 5 - 8. Make resistance measurements between a clean ground and the following terminals:
#1, Shift solenoid B, 20 - 40 ohms.
#2, Shift solenoid A, 20 - 40 ohms.
#3, Overrun clutch solenoid valve, 20 - 40 ohms.
#4, Line pressure solenoid valve, 2.5 - 5 ohms.
#5, Torque converter clutch solenoid valve, 10 - 20 ohms.

There is also a "bench test" procedure for testing these solenoids with a 12 volt supply such as a car battery. However, this requires removal of the shift solenoid valve assembly. I don't know if you want to get involved with that.

The ATF temperature sensor resistance is measured across terminals #6 and #7 of F42.
At 68 degrees F, the resistance should be approximately 2.5Kohms.
At 176 degrees F, the resistance should be approximately 0.3Kohms
A defective ATFTS could prevent the transmission from shifting into 4th gear.

It's possible that your transmission has more than one problem with the valve body. That would make for confusing symptoms and more difficult diagnosis.

 

Gerard Pearson is in New Zealand. Shipping cost from US to NZ will be more than US$70.

 

wow this is a long post.

 

Sorry you are having this problem but it's nice to know someone else is sharing the same issue as myself. I too have had the same issues - search and you'll see my posts. I never did liken the behavior to skipping through 2nd, I thought it just had trouble knowing when to shift. DBM posted a similar response for testing, but I have yet to perform the test. Hopefully, this weekend I can get some time. Keep in touch and I'll do the same - perhaps the two of us can figure this thing out. By the way, I was quoted $1200 for a valve body rebuild if a flush did not solve the problem. Perhaps its just Kiwi luck with Nissan cars - as I'm half Kiwi. Skull!

 

There ceretainly appears to be a number of Maxima owners who have similar tell-tale signs symptomatic of a lost gear. For what it's worth I received the following response from 'parttrackers':

Ref:http://www.parttrackers.com/mechanic...96nissanmaxima

Keep sharing the knowledge...

Answer: Hi Gerard;

There are several areas that can cause this.
1/ Inhibitor switch malfunction
2/ Reduction and vehicle speed sensors.
3/ Engine speed sensor.
4/ Control valve body.
5/ Shift solenoid valves A & B
6/ Line pressure solenoid.

This would be best taken to a service depot that can handle this type of work.

All the best,
Stu

 

Yes, I think it would be cheaper to get the work done in NZ. Stillen wated $150 USD ($370 NZD) to post a supercharger which is about 25 kg ( about 50lb) A tranny is how many kg?

 

An automatic weighs approximately 70 kg.