Help needed, after fix Max won't start...
Help needed, after fix Max won't start...
My harmonic balancer seperated from the outer serp. pulley about a week ago, I bought a new balancer from Nissan, installed it without issue. Went to start the car, fired right up and ran fine. Pulled car out to parking lot of my dad's shop, left it sit for a while while I did some stuff in my trunk, and when I went to start the car it wouldn't start at first, then after about 5-10 seconds of cranking it finally started, and seemed to run ok. Shut the car off, try to start it again and no start. Finally get it to start again and take it for a drive, seems to run ok until I try to run the engine up past 5k and it acted like it wanted to cut out.
I put the scanner on it and it came back with cam sensor circuit A malf, and engine ign misfire something or other. So I thought the cam sensor may have gone bad, got a new one from Nissan, installed and now I can't get it to start at all.
Car is a 97 w/ 175,xxx miles, 5spd. I have never had an ounce of engine trouble out of this car, but it seems like ever since it hit 170,000 miles it is falling apart. I just don't know where to go from here. If anyone has ANY suggestions, I would greatly appreciate the help. Also if any more info is needs, please let me know.
Thanks in advance,
-Matt
I put the scanner on it and it came back with cam sensor circuit A malf, and engine ign misfire something or other. So I thought the cam sensor may have gone bad, got a new one from Nissan, installed and now I can't get it to start at all.
Car is a 97 w/ 175,xxx miles, 5spd. I have never had an ounce of engine trouble out of this car, but it seems like ever since it hit 170,000 miles it is falling apart. I just don't know where to go from here. If anyone has ANY suggestions, I would greatly appreciate the help. Also if any more info is needs, please let me know.
Thanks in advance,
-Matt
OK, I have to work today so I had my brother who is at the shop try and start the car this morning. He said after about 5 sec of cranking, it started, and now the cam sensor code is gone!
But, it still has the same other code as it had before :
P1335 MFR Cntrlld Ign Sys or Misfire
He says it still is hard to start, but once fired off it runs great. And the one above is the only code it has.
Any new ideas?
But, it still has the same other code as it had before :
P1335 MFR Cntrlld Ign Sys or Misfire
He says it still is hard to start, but once fired off it runs great. And the one above is the only code it has.
Any new ideas?
Ok, so I did some digging, and P1335 is
Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
Is this the one down by the crank pulley, or the one back by the tranny? Code 1336 is
Crank Pos sens, but it has (CKPS) at the end...
Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
Is this the one down by the crank pulley, or the one back by the tranny? Code 1336 is
Crank Pos sens, but it has (CKPS) at the end...
Last edited by MadMaxSE-L; Sep 14, 2007 at 06:01 AM.
First...check your connections. If you didn't have this problem pryer to working on the car, it is more likly you have injected a problem rather than a fluke that parts just went bad. MadMaxSE-L is on the right track IMO. Check the crank connection down near the harmonic balancer. There is also a sub connection on top near the intake. You can also get this code and simptoms if you have a bad ground, weak or bad battery. Check your battery and its connections. Simple stuff first.
DO IT RIGHT...DO IT ONCE.
DO IT RIGHT...DO IT ONCE.
Last edited by 67whitegoat; Sep 16, 2007 at 08:42 PM.
First...check your connections. If you didn't have this problem pryer to working on the car, it is more likly you have injected a problem rather than a fluke that parts just went bad. MadMaxSE-L is on the right track IMO. check the crank connection down near the harmonic balancer. there is also a sub connection on top near the intake. You can also get this code and simptoms if you have a bad ground, weak or bad battery. Check your battery and its connections. Simple stuff first.
DO IT RIGHT...DO IT ONCE.
DO IT RIGHT...DO IT ONCE.
I am having this SAME problem and the guy from my shop tells me that it's the crankshaft position sensor. It either takes me about 4-5 seconds to start if I'm lucky or takes me about 4-5 tries to start it.
Can you send me a picture or something of where this sensor is located? I ordered it and I would like to put it in myself and NOT make the trip to the shop to ask where it is located.
Can you send me a picture or something of where this sensor is located? I ordered it and I would like to put it in myself and NOT make the trip to the shop to ask where it is located.
I am having this SAME problem and the guy from my shop tells me that it's the crankshaft position sensor. It either takes me about 4-5 seconds to start if I'm lucky or takes me about 4-5 tries to start it.
Can you send me a picture or something of where this sensor is located? I ordered it and I would like to put it in myself and NOT make the trip to the shop to ask where it is located.
Can you send me a picture or something of where this sensor is located? I ordered it and I would like to put it in myself and NOT make the trip to the shop to ask where it is located.
FInally got my sensor today, and...
FIXED! Finally agter a week. It was the Crank Position Senson up by the crank pulley. Now the motor doesn't even turn over all the way before it fires up. I think my idle is a little low now, though, but don't think it has anything to do with the sensor.
The car is a 5spd and has a Place Racing CAI, and idles w/o the a/c on @500-550. Turn on the a/cand it goes to maybe 800rpm...
FIXED! Finally agter a week. It was the Crank Position Senson up by the crank pulley. Now the motor doesn't even turn over all the way before it fires up. I think my idle is a little low now, though, but don't think it has anything to do with the sensor.
The car is a 5spd and has a Place Racing CAI, and idles w/o the a/c on @500-550. Turn on the a/cand it goes to maybe 800rpm...
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