Engine 1/2 way fixed...update on the situation with the new motor

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Oct 1, 2007 | 08:32 AM
  #1  
Okay, things have gotten better, my last trip back to the mechanic, he fixed a oil leak coming from what appeared to be the real main seal. He said it wasn't the rear main seal but somewhere else that had the leakage. He fixed that, also he fixed the shutoff problem which had something to do with the sensors...

The car runs much better, no engine jerking and no engine lights are currently on anymore, however, I still have another oil leak coming from somewhere else.

He said he doesn't want to fix the other oil leak, I'm kinda mad but I understand, he's a family mechanic and I paid him about 1/2 of what he usually charges due to me being on hard times right now....

Anyways even though the engine runs good, its burning a massive amount of fuel, currently I've gone 240 miles and I'm on 1/4th tank...

I got the car back on about 3/4 tank and the mechanic left the engine on for a good amount of time to figure some things out so maybe the problem is I need to do the 60k mile tune up or something of that nature?
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Oct 1, 2007 | 09:28 AM
  #2  
I don't know what you're complaining about. I get 220 miles a TANK in the city doing <3,000 rpm.
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Oct 1, 2007 | 10:10 AM
  #3  
nothing wrong with 1/4 tank left and 240 miles.. thats almost exactly what i get if not better
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Oct 1, 2007 | 08:16 PM
  #4  
It's a salvageyard engine. You didn't put new plugs in it?
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Oct 1, 2007 | 08:28 PM
  #5  
Calculate your real gas mileage...guages can be off. Did you compression test this engine? o2 sensors?
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Oct 1, 2007 | 10:13 PM
  #6  
Yea, the compression is fine and I'm going to do the 60k mileage tune up soon, also throw in a air filter for the maxima as well and clean the throttle body.
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Oct 2, 2007 | 05:40 AM
  #7  
Werd, good to hear your car is back up and running. As for the rear-main, he probably meant the upper oil pan seal, that's what always leaks anyways before the rear main seal, and it sounds like he fixed it right by removing the oil pan or just re-tourqing the bolts, hopefully that's the case. When you do the 60k service even if there is no cel make sure there isn't a knock sensor ghost code as well.

Just out of curiosity, what did he end up charging you? You can pm me the answer if you like. I just did an engine/trans swap for a freind and I only charged him $650, it turned out to be a good situation for both of us though, swapping the entire drivetrain (engine and trans) at the same time makes it a bit easier though (and much less messy!).
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