is one front strut tower bar better than the rest?
#1
wants an I35
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is one front strut tower bar better than the rest?
so this will be my first "performance mod" on any car, ever. i been all around the internet today, first looking in our local forums and for sale forums and then just googling it. ive found a variety of FSTBs at a variety of prices. some say they are better because they are wider and thicker (makes sense) and some say "lightweight" as a selling point. prices range from 50 to 95 bux.
so im asking is there a high quality/reasonably priced FSTB that i should be lookin at? i mean its basically a piece of metal. i cant imagine that craftsmanship makes that much of a difference. seems like it would be more material or quality of material. anyway, just lookin for advice. thanks
so im asking is there a high quality/reasonably priced FSTB that i should be lookin at? i mean its basically a piece of metal. i cant imagine that craftsmanship makes that much of a difference. seems like it would be more material or quality of material. anyway, just lookin for advice. thanks
#2
wants an I35
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http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/alalstruttow39.html
this is the cheapo one
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/pr...gory=strut_bar
this seems legit
this is the cheapo one
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/pr...gory=strut_bar
this seems legit
#4
They all generally do the same thing and you won't notice much of a difference between the high priced ones and the low priced ones. I'd say look for one on ebay or on here. I got mine for 30 bucks shipped.
#10
ive owned a generic and a stillen. the generic one is far easier to setup and remove. the stillen one is much better looking. id say the generic one feels stronger when leaning on them.
just buy one that fits the bill and make sure your evap control valve (2" black disk near the throttle body) is far enough away or else it will break.
just buy one that fits the bill and make sure your evap control valve (2" black disk near the throttle body) is far enough away or else it will break.
#13
wants an I35
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the interior is filthy though, the steering wheel is losing its cover and the console has stupid stickers here and there, but nothing i cant take care of with a little effort. rotors are warped. bumper and fender have small 1"-3" scratches.
regardless i got a steal. bluebook for this car is $6400+...
i feel way more confident investing $1000 on wheels/tires or $1000 on performance mods into a car thats worth 6-7k as opposed to my old car worth 3.5-4.5k (had 141k, 100,000 miles more).
anyway my first order of business, after cleanign of course, is to get tints. i heard one of you south florida people mention a tinting place in ft. lauderdale. whats its name? any other suggestions on where to go?
next would be rotors and fsts. any suggestions on quality rotors? or pads for that matter? im gettin jackstands so i can start doing real work in my parking lot.
appreciate all ur help
Last edited by ROCKART; 10-08-2007 at 07:37 PM.
#15
#16
#18
yea man. a 90 year old woman sold me her car (through a third party) for $4,500. 41800 miles when i bought it on saturday. less than 4000 miles a year. leather, sunroof, NEW TIRES. i coudlnt believe it. i carfaxed it (she was original owner), ran the codes cuz the cel was on (evap and KS), and did a thorough inspection. thing is barely used. the shocks, exhaust, boots, cvs etc. are all rock solid. paint is spotless and it idles beautifully. the bose system has never been touched.
the interior is filthy though, the steering wheel is losing its cover and the console has stupid stickers here and there, but nothing i cant take care of with a little effort. rotors are warped. bumper and fender have small 1"-3" scratches.
regardless i got a steal. bluebook for this car is $6400+...
i feel way more confident investing $1000 on wheels/tires or $1000 on performace modes into a car thats worth 6-7k as opposed to my old car worth 3.5-4.5k (had 141k, 100,000 miles more).
anyway my first order of business, after cleanign of course, is to get tints. i heard one of you south florida people mention a tinting place in ft. lauderdale. whats its name? any other suggestions on where to go?
next would be rotors and fsts. any suggestions on quality rotors? or pads for that matter? im gettin jackstands so i can start doing real work in my parking lot.
appreciate all ur help
the interior is filthy though, the steering wheel is losing its cover and the console has stupid stickers here and there, but nothing i cant take care of with a little effort. rotors are warped. bumper and fender have small 1"-3" scratches.
regardless i got a steal. bluebook for this car is $6400+...
i feel way more confident investing $1000 on wheels/tires or $1000 on performace modes into a car thats worth 6-7k as opposed to my old car worth 3.5-4.5k (had 141k, 100,000 miles more).
anyway my first order of business, after cleanign of course, is to get tints. i heard one of you south florida people mention a tinting place in ft. lauderdale. whats its name? any other suggestions on where to go?
next would be rotors and fsts. any suggestions on quality rotors? or pads for that matter? im gettin jackstands so i can start doing real work in my parking lot.
appreciate all ur help
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Wheel...All&sort=Brand
as far as rotors go brembo blanks ftw. i use axxis metal masters pads (hawk hps is another popular choice), but i wouldn't hesitate to try these brembo sport pads on closeout:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...8&autoModClar=
honestly i wouldn't bother with a fstb since i know you're gonna keep the suspension stock.
WIGGAFLY: how's the fitment on that sarona grill? i like the style but it seems a little off in all the pics i've seen.
#19
I bought it with the car, and its just being held in by these thin metal brackets that bend pretty easy.
I dont think they come with brackets, i mean theres no holes or anything iirc to mount it with.
I was going to secure it, but it doesnt move around when the hood is closed, so i havent really messed with it.
The only thing i have to worry about is when i close the hood, so i just close it gently.
#20
the rear strut bar connects the rear strut mounting points just like a front strut bar connects the front strut mounting points. both are stiffeners to reduce chassis flex.
rear anti-sway bar attaches to the rear suspension beam tightening up the rear under hard cornering. hence the term: anti-sway.
rear anti-sway bar attaches to the rear suspension beam tightening up the rear under hard cornering. hence the term: anti-sway.
#22
basically there is no point in getting this,
just that Vibrant is going to have a sale on oct 20th at their warehouse, which is close to me, FSTB for $20, i know i can make money on it later, thats they only reason i am thinking of getting it
just that Vibrant is going to have a sale on oct 20th at their warehouse, which is close to me, FSTB for $20, i know i can make money on it later, thats they only reason i am thinking of getting it
#23
wants an I35
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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told ya everything would work out. sounds like you got a killer deal. what color did you end up with? auto/manual?
as far as rotors go brembo blanks ftw. i use axxis metal masters pads (hawk hps is another popular choice), but i wouldn't hesitate to try these brembo sport pads on closeout:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...8&autoModClar=
as far as rotors go brembo blanks ftw. i use axxis metal masters pads (hawk hps is another popular choice), but i wouldn't hesitate to try these brembo sport pads on closeout:
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...8&autoModClar=
about the rotors tho, you recommend standard brembo blanks? not slotted rotors? i mean im not gonna be racing this thing or whatnot but i do want the best stopping power available. u think slotted rotors are overkill? theres a pretty big discrepancy in pricing. plain rotors are like 30-40 bux and slotted start at 70 and go all the way to 150.
im leaning towards plain brembo rotors, but i would want good pads
do you recommend ceramic? metallic? or hybrid composite? (with the brembo non slotted rotors)
yea i guess ill hold off on the fstb for a while. its useless without lowering is the idea right??
immona get that drop in K&N stock filter tho. only like 40-50 bux and supposedly just as good as an aftermarket cai.
#24
yea i got a 97 pearl white/artic white whatever the fck its called. auto tranny. shifts smoother than any car i have owned before it.
about the rotors tho, you recommend standard brembo blanks? not slotted rotors? i mean im not gonna be racing this thing or whatnot but i do want the best stopping power available. u think slotted rotors are overkill? theres a pretty big discrepancy in pricing. plain rotors are like 30-40 bux and slotted start at 70 and go all the way to 150.
im leaning towards plain brembo rotors, but i would want good pads
do you recommend ceramic? metallic? or hybrid composite? (with the brembo non slotted rotors)
yea i guess ill hold off on the fstb for a while. its useless without lowering is the idea right??
immona get that drop in K&N stock filter tho. only like 40-50 bux and supposedly just as good as an aftermarket cai.
about the rotors tho, you recommend standard brembo blanks? not slotted rotors? i mean im not gonna be racing this thing or whatnot but i do want the best stopping power available. u think slotted rotors are overkill? theres a pretty big discrepancy in pricing. plain rotors are like 30-40 bux and slotted start at 70 and go all the way to 150.
im leaning towards plain brembo rotors, but i would want good pads
do you recommend ceramic? metallic? or hybrid composite? (with the brembo non slotted rotors)
yea i guess ill hold off on the fstb for a while. its useless without lowering is the idea right??
immona get that drop in K&N stock filter tho. only like 40-50 bux and supposedly just as good as an aftermarket cai.
#25
wants an I35
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=540664
mark says the stock intake is a better system due to its design. and the K&N will allow more air than a fram or standard filter
mark says the stock intake is a better system due to its design. and the K&N will allow more air than a fram or standard filter
#27
I meant that a k&n is a good upgrade for stock box. But also the fact that stock + k&n is not like CAI. They are different and create different effects on the powerband. But yes, a k&n filter is a good idea.
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