Transmission out to repair leak
10-08-2007, 05:20 PM
#1
Transmission out to repair leak
I am having my tranny removed to put a seal to fix gear oil leak. I will be changing the clutch since the transmission is out. Another thing is that my reverse lights don't come ON and I would definately like to fix this since the transmission will be out. Any ideas what to do to fix the reverse light problem and anything else I can do when the transmission is out..............
10-08-2007, 05:42 PM
#2
Check the engine's rear main seal or just replace it if you feel spunky. Also, you could install a stainless steel clutch line. They are only $25 and you might as well bleed the clutch. Don't forget to grease the pivot ball, throw-out bearing surfaces and fork.
You could also change the axle seals and "striking rod oil seal" which is the input shaft from the shifter... and while you are onto the shifter you could do a STS or at least get some poly bushings for the shifter... to name a few.
And lastly, as many have said before, sand the engine and trans bell housing surfaces. It will save you grief later.
You could also change the axle seals and "striking rod oil seal" which is the input shaft from the shifter... and while you are onto the shifter you could do a STS or at least get some poly bushings for the shifter... to name a few.
And lastly, as many have said before, sand the engine and trans bell housing surfaces. It will save you grief later.
10-08-2007, 05:47 PM
#3
Check the engine's rear main seal or just replace it if you feel spunky. Also, you could install a stainless steel clutch line. They are only $25 and you might as well bleed the clutch. Don't forget to grease the pivot ball, throw-out bearing surfaces and fork.
You could also change the axle seals and "striking rod oil seal" which is the input shaft from the shifter... and while you are onto the shifter you could do a STS or at least get some poly bushings for the shifter... to name a few.
And lastly, as many have said before, sand the engine and trans bell housing surfaces. It will save you grief later.
You could also change the axle seals and "striking rod oil seal" which is the input shaft from the shifter... and while you are onto the shifter you could do a STS or at least get some poly bushings for the shifter... to name a few.
And lastly, as many have said before, sand the engine and trans bell housing surfaces. It will save you grief later.
10-08-2007, 06:47 PM
#4
Take the tranny to a tranny shop and have them split it open to directly inspect the bearings. Your axle seal leak could very well be due to worn out bearings, and you'll kick yourself really hard if you have the tranny all the way out and you just change the seal and it still leaks.
The correct way to handle the clutch is to take the flywheel out for machining (not sanding) and clean both the pressure plate and flywheel with solvent prior to installation. You don't want a single greasy fingerprint on those surfaces.
Dave
The correct way to handle the clutch is to take the flywheel out for machining (not sanding) and clean both the pressure plate and flywheel with solvent prior to installation. You don't want a single greasy fingerprint on those surfaces.
Dave
10-08-2007, 07:26 PM
#5
10-08-2007, 07:32 PM
#6
Take the tranny to a tranny shop and have them split it open to directly inspect the bearings. Your axle seal leak could very well be due to worn out bearings, and you'll kick yourself really hard if you have the tranny all the way out and you just change the seal and it still leaks.
The correct way to handle the clutch is to take the flywheel out for machining (not sanding) and clean both the pressure plate and flywheel with solvent prior to installation. You don't want a single greasy fingerprint on those surfaces.
Dave
The correct way to handle the clutch is to take the flywheel out for machining (not sanding) and clean both the pressure plate and flywheel with solvent prior to installation. You don't want a single greasy fingerprint on those surfaces.
Dave
I have a new clutch kit which I think contains the fly wheel, so I will not have to go through the cleaning process.
Any idea about the reverse light switch....
Thanks!
10-08-2007, 07:56 PM
#7
Reverse lights, did you see the above post?
10-11-2007, 06:13 PM
#8
The trans came out. To insert the seal they had to open up the transmission since it looks that it's on the other side of the input/output shaft, and they found out that the main bearing was also gone. The options were to rebuild the transmission or get another one, I went for the later....
The other question I may have is whether I have a non LCD or LCD transmission. The car is a 1995 maxima SE..........
The other question I may have is whether I have a non LCD or LCD transmission. The car is a 1995 maxima SE..........
10-11-2007, 09:37 PM
#9
The trans came out. To insert the seal they had to open up the transmission since it looks that it's on the other side of the input/output shaft, and they found out that the main bearing was also gone. The options were to rebuild the transmission or get another one, I went for the later....
The other question I may have is whether I have a non LCD or LCD transmission. The car is a 1995 maxima SE..........
The other question I may have is whether I have a non LCD or LCD transmission. The car is a 1995 maxima SE..........
10-15-2007, 05:14 PM
#11
10-15-2007, 06:05 PM
#12
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$900 was without a core, I can do it for $725 + your old trans, the shop can leave all the shift components in a box and toss the shaft's/dif back into the case for convenience.
10-15-2007, 06:22 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,190
Well if they are replacing the differential carrier bearing at the same time, make sure it is shimmed properly.
I would print out the 10-pager from www.motorvate.ca for how to shim the differential bearing properly. It was done twice at the stealership and still leaked until he did the job himself.
I would print out the 10-pager from www.motorvate.ca for how to shim the differential bearing properly. It was done twice at the stealership and still leaked until he did the job himself.
10-15-2007, 06:28 PM
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 38
You didn't say how many miles on this tranny that you are having removed. Make sure the shop cleans the interior of the bellhousing and clutch fork. You want them to remove any glaze from the flywheel. They should absolutely replace the throwout bearing after clearning all surfaces and lubricating pivot points on the ball stud, release bearing, and clutch fork clips. Getting a Stock viscous LSD tranny is of little value if the viscous pack isn't relatively new as the fluid inside breaks down over approximately 60K miles; a used one with more than that mileage wouldn't be worth the extra money. I"d go with the open diff. If you really care about an LSD you can get a geared (like Quaife) or clutch type installed for significantly more $$. If your driveaxles haven't been rebuilt with new grease and boots this might also be something you want to reconsider, all depends upon when they were last rebuilt, if at all. Good luck, Rich
10-15-2007, 06:57 PM
#15
My VLSD has over 160K miles and still functions correctly. According to the FSM test. but i suspect once it starts to get beat on the fluid heats up and it reverts to semi-open. Not a big deal though, a LSD will do very little in a straight line. I dont think ive heard of a clutch kit that contains the flywheel. The cost of a flywheel would knock up the price atleast $300, flywheels aint cheap, especially OEM. Personally id just get a fidanza but thats me. Good luck!
10-16-2007, 04:22 PM
#16
was missing some of the nearings. The gears all look good, not chipped.
The reason I went for a "new" one was that the shop were not willing to replace the seal and bearing without doing a complete rebuild. They would not guarantee the rebuilding job........
10-16-2007, 04:27 PM
#17
You didn't say how many miles on this tranny that you are having removed. Make sure the shop cleans the interior of the bellhousing and clutch fork. You want them to remove any glaze from the flywheel. They should absolutely replace the throwout bearing after clearning all surfaces and lubricating pivot points on the ball stud, release bearing, and clutch fork clips. Getting a Stock viscous LSD tranny is of little value if the viscous pack isn't relatively new as the fluid inside breaks down over approximately 60K miles; a used one with more than that mileage wouldn't be worth the extra money. I"d go with the open diff. If you really care about an LSD you can get a geared (like Quaife) or clutch type installed for significantly more $$. If your driveaxles haven't been rebuilt with new grease and boots this might also be something you want to reconsider, all depends upon when they were last rebuilt, if at all. Good luck, Rich
I will make sure the shop cleans the parts that you mentioned.
Thanks!
10-17-2007, 03:54 AM
#18
BTW, for $750 I don't think you're getting a new tranny. New ones are around $2000.
Dave
10-17-2007, 09:13 AM
#19
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^^
And thanks for the offer to buy the tranny, but since you're in NJ and I'm not desperate for another one right now I'll let someone much closer take it off your hands........
And thanks for the offer to buy the tranny, but since you're in NJ and I'm not desperate for another one right now I'll let someone much closer take it off your hands........
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