i recently did mines and it had a lot of gunk took it apart clean every thing and put new gasket as well now when im goin got put it in neutrol like down hill or stop light as the rmp drop its stops at like 1200 for a second then it drop to 700 did i did something wrong?

 

No problem man -- this is exactly what this site is all about, and why some people come here

i am glad i could help some people out - including yourself

thank you

 

Hey guys, I am just curious, what is the benefit of cleaning the TB? I understand the IACV, and the TB on some cars because the air passage that feeds the IACV in some cars is a bypass hole IN the throttle body that sometimes gets gunked, but that isn't the case with our TB's. Other than a wee bit of restricted overall flow at WOT is there any real downside to a dirty TB?

 

Im having the same trouble, it idles at 525+- then when at a stop while engaging the clutch it drops to 100 or so, its been gradually been getting worst. Guess i have something to do this weekend

 

I just did this. after 140k miles it really wasnt all that bad. but the inside of my intake manifold is horrible... is there a thread about taking that off and cleaning it? please pm me if anyone know one. thanks

 

Great info!

 

awesome write up

 

I did mine awhile ago, still got the #25 code, might clean it again tonight, like take the hole thing apart, the connectors and all. I cleaned my MAF and TB, no big difference, but the recent owner didnt replace anything. I recently tried to replace my knock sensor, and now I need to get a new hose, I found a large crack in the hose (that might be a problem).

Note to all newbies doing this, be careful, if you have very old hoses, you might have a problem with them, like they crack or the just break apart.

Thanks.

 

do you have to replace the IACV gasket

 

I never did, mine was still in perfect condition, but if its all bent up and screwed up, yes.

I have a question, that large sensor part on the IACV wont come off, the 2 screws came off easily, but the metal part wont come off. Any suggestions?

Edit: Nevermind, it was on, and it looked like it wasnt supposed to come off, but I got it off.

 

My buddy is gonna show me how to do it, hes a mechanic.

 

I would recommend replacing the gasket. It is cheap from the dealer.

 

i cant find one in town, everybody said 1-2 weeks to get one

 

i remember doing this when i first got my car... Was disgusting... Gonna do it again.... Surpisly it actually made a difference with my idle and all....Smoother expect at first my idle was high for the first few starts then it was fine

 

idk wat it is but wen i would start my car after like 6 or 7 hours of just sitting and would put it in drive, it jus dies on me, then i put it in nuetral and start it back up and put it in drive and it does the same thing i have to let it warm up in order to be able to drive... im a firefighter hence y i start and go but its been really bad lately any ideas?

 

subscribed, i need to do this to my car

 

i did the auto to 5spd swap 2 weeks ago and a couple days later i noticed the idle would drop and eventually the car would cut off in neutral or with my foot on the clutch pedal. a couple days ago i noticed in neutral while coasting the idle was almost at 2000 rpms sometimes 1500. today, i cleaned the iacv, tb, upper and lower intake manifolds and still get the same problems, except that the car runs smoother in gear. could it be the ecu? its still the auto one

 

get your self a 95 5 spd ecu.

 

This is my next project. 3 more posts and I can start a noob thread he he he

 

just reporting, i just cleaned the IACV,TB and EGR tube, it was giving me code for the IACV and the idle used to bounce, now, wow, the thing is silky smooth.

And actually it wasn't that clogged, but now i feel how good it pulls from 5th
on the highway past 60mph. Hope this gives me better MPG`s.

 

I have a 99 se replaced the motor and now some times when I drive it the idle starts rising and I can start first with out gas do you think this will fix it