I have a 1996 Nissan Maxima 5-Speed and it has a bogging problem. Between 2k-4k in the RPM's it can range from between 2k-4k and its not a specific gear its whenever it feels like being stupid! Well I replaced the knock sensor, Installed new spark plugs. One of my friends said it could be the TPS and I bought a new TPS but I never thought it would be that hard to remove so it hasnt been installed yet. The little screws are crazy tight how can I remove those?. Its not a continuous bog it goes away then comes back and so on and so forth...It will bog while Im driving then it will go away once I give it more gas and when I come to a stop it either stalls or the RPM's start shooting up and down and almost shutting off if not it will completely stall. One thing that I did do and it might be throwing me off is my test pipe had no o2 sensor bung so I just removed the o2 sensor. Could that be a problem? I was told by an employee at Munroe Muffler or something like that, that it wouldnt be a problem if I just get rid of it due to the fact its on the cat and it shouldnt infulence how the car works. The one that infulences how the car runs is the ones on the y-pipe but those are still there. I NEED HELP WHAT COULD BE CAUSING THIS BOG!!!

Mods:
Intake
Megan Racing Cat-Back Exhaust
Stone Mountain Racing Y-Pipe
Test Pipe
Walbro 255 Fuel Pump
Zex Spark Plugs

*Cant really remeber if anything else off the top of my head*

 

any check engine lights? Have you tried replacing the MAF, My coolant temp sensor use to do something similar to this before I replaced it.

 

have you replaced your coils? i had a similar problem, check ur engine for misfires that will let you know if any of your coils are bad

 

I'm going to run a diagnostics check today. I do have a check engine but I thought that it was from the top speed limiter I removed on the ECU. I'll post it on here what codes I'm getting.

 

oh ya I have a stock MAF and the wires are spliced together. It was spliced for a 300zx TT MAF for my Vortech but I removed that and installed my stock one back and spliced it together. Any more ideas

 

find out what the ECU knows. It only takes 5 minutes and a screw driver.

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Automob...a_screw_driver

 

I never knew you could do that. Awesome thanks Im going to do that right now acually...

 

Ok. I havent done that manual test thing but I hooked up a OBDII scanner to it and these are the codes I got.

P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor A Malfunction
P0150 02s Ckt Malfunction 2/1
P0136 02s Ckt Malfunction 1/2
P0155 02s Heater Ckt Malfunction 2/1

Will any of these effect the Bogging Issue I have???

 

It looks like I need to replace all my o2 sensors. Doing this do you guys believe my car will be fine?

 

i think all 4 of those issues would affect it, also if u are removing the TPS make sure u adjust it(see those two screws and how u can kinda tilt it, left and right) I would do the vehicle speed sensor FIRST, as for the TPS leave that for last(if there is something even wrong with it)

 

Your fuel and timing are out of sync at lower RPMs, which is when you're under heavier load. The O2 sensor, when in open loop mode, isn't sending the proper signals to the ECU so your car is running overly rich, causing the stumble.

 

IIRC, I got at least one of the TPS screws off using vise grips. I think the inside one might be tricky though.

 

I wonder if the problem has anything to do with the bigger fuel pump.

the rear o2 sensor is strictly there to make sure the cat is working, it is mainly for monitoring purposes, it doesnt really do anything, the front 2 are the ones which are used to alter the A/F ratio under closed loop conditions.

 

I replaced the other 2 o2 sensors on the y-pipe and still have a bog. I have a tps sensor and also a oem fuel pump. Do you guys believe it may be my fuel pump. I cant figure it out also I just did a quick diagnostics test and no more o2 sensor codes but a P1150 code andit says No DTC Definition found. What is this?

 

thats code P1105 not P1150

 

Wait what? 1996 SEs don't have speed limiters. What the hell did you remove? The only model in the 1996 that has a limiter is the GLE. o.O Whatever the hell you cut might be the problem.

 

I do have a gle I know that's not the problem...I haven't updated anythin on here

 

Many maximas had speed limiters, SE's did not but i believe GXE/GLE's did.

In my opinion, i think the fuel pump is supplying too much pressure, even though you have a FPR i think the pump will still bump up the fuel pressure which would explain the bog at lower rpm.

I am not 100% sure, but if you have the OEM fuel pump, its not too hard to swap fuel pumps so id try that because in my opinion i think thats what could be causing the problem.

 

Oh ok, that makes sense then because under your name it says its a SE so that threw me off heh.

 

I think it is fuel pump of MAF. The bog down on the rpm's you are talking about seems to fit the MAF theory but fuel pump isnt out of the realm of possibilities.

 

ok Im going to try to clean my MAF today hopefully if it doesnt snow here in RI, Im going to be using that CNC MAF Cleaner or w.e it is I'll take a ride to my near by AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts. If That doesnt work Im putting in my OEM Fuel Pump and see what happens then and if problems still continue off to Nissan I go lol...

 

oh ya forgot to mention my MAF the wires are spliced...They're spliced because I had the Z32 300zx TT MAF for my vortech but the connections seem fine I'll re-do the connections and check it all out ect.