Yea i was looking for an aftermarket intake manifold.
I was wondering how much hp i would gain?
Where to get one?
and how much they cost?

Thanxs

 

Search and you will find all your answers, but in case you were wondering you mean like this

 

Yea im trying to find one like that where did u get it

 

You can buy them from courtesy nissan there site is www.courtesyparts.com

The other better alternative is the 00vi from the 00-01 maximas. It is a much more difficult swap compared to the MEVI which is what i have. The mevi is basically a bolt on, but will require an RPM switch, vacuum canister, control solenoid and perhaps a check valve if your vacuum canister doesnt have one. It is a somewhat involved job, you will have to remove your intake plenum and everything before it.

The 00vi requires you to use either the 00-01 LIM + injectors, and the 00-01 UIM, or 4th gen LIM which needs to be redrilled so you can use the 00-01 UIM. Then you will need to decide if you want to use the 4th gen TB and IACV, or go with the 5th gen unit.

Search my freind there are TONS of more informative posts the mine!

 

ok thanks that gives me alot of information on what i have to do

 

damn dat set up looks hot, how much HP do u get ever since u got that?

 

Does nobody read the stickies anymore?

 

one more question for you how long did it take for you to install and was it kind of easy.
Also about how much HP did u gain

 

just looked at the stickies, doesnt look easy to me but if anyone wants to take a look here it is

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=50

 

Search or read the stickies, you can learn a lot.

 

if you are looking for hp gains there is a great dyno thread in the all motor stickies. compares the mevi vs 00vi vs usim. shows 00vi is the best.

 

Well.... since you don't seem to know much about modding... I wouldn't try either, but if you're going to- 00VI all the way.

 

Yeah the MEVI is fairly straight forward, but there are a lot of little things that can get you, especially the wiring for the control solenoid, rpm switch and for the rpm input signal. If you havent done anything major like that before and your mechanical skills are average or below average, as in your set of tools consist of a crecent wrench and a hadn ful of screw drivers i would NOT even attempt to do it. My dad was a ticketed mechanic, i am an apprentice and it still took me 3-4 hours to do the MEVI install plus both my valve covers. figure this i didnt even get my mevi working for 2-3 weeks because of the stupid actuator.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=542561

 

A modded ECU with the extended rev limiter is also needed. Without it the extended rev limit there really is no reason to do the MEVI.

 

Well, that's one opinion. My ECU is stock. With my MEVI, the power curve extended upwards until fuel-cut at 6650.

 

Really, Dyno graph to go with that? That was all motor right? When I dynoed without it I definately saw a difference, it basicly steadied out and right at 6500 it dropped instantly. With the JWT it kept climbing all the way up to 7k

 

Yeah, I've been on dynos using the previous 3.0s - with the MEVI installed. Without it, your power curve would drop off quickly after 5000, based on others' NA dyno with USIM.

With it, at least in my experience, the power went on up to OEM fuel-cut - short intake ram and 3" Warpspeed exhaust. With spray, it went UP until I hit fuel-cut/nitrous-cut programmed at 6500. I also have a custom-build electronic MEVI controller using some relays and a MSD 8969 RPM switch. Dead reliable, but it had to be set to 4800 so that the butterflies would flip at 5000 - with 150-shot at launch, you get through first gear quickly, and the mechanical delay needs some compensation in set point. In the higher gears, no such problem...

The MEVI and controller is now surplus since installing my cammed 3.5. Can't wait to dyno this one.

.

 

so is that alitte do hicky arm thingy for sale , I have been thinking about getting rid of the vac can

 

interesting....yes yes

 

Sorry - when I decide to sell all the 3.0 stuff, I'll offer the ported MEVI with the custom controller and unused cover plate together. Probably in the spring, unless you want to buy the whole package?

I gave the wiring diagram to streetz, along with where I got the door-lock solenoid. Interested?

 

naw not looking to get the whole thing, but know a few guys who would like to get their hands on it

yes, I would like the wiring diagram

 

Here's a down payment - a few links..



http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2334.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2333.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2332.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2331.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2330.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2328.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2323.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2322.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2321.jpg

Wiring diagram X3
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2337.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2338.jpg

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...r/Dscn2339.jpg


door lock motor like these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Door-...spagenameZWDVW


.

 

What's that?

 

please excuse my noobiness, but what is the benefit of that over the way the MEVI actuates already?

 

a rats nest of wires

 

Unlike using vacuum to move the butterflies, this design uses a MSD 8969 rpm switch and some electronics to control a door-lock solenoid which flips the butterflies - quickly, completely, and reliably - big assets when you spend a lot of time on the drag strip. Most useful on heavily modified engines....


.

 

despite my "rats nest" reply i really do think its a good idea and agree it would be much more reliable than a vacuum system and seems like it would be better.

 

now is there some kind of proof or did someone have a problem with the butterflies not opening quickly, completely, and reliably?? just wondering...mine seem to open everytime at the same exact time pretty quickly. is it something im not seeing?

 

Yeah, I've heard the usual yatty-yat about the wiring, starting with Maxus 2005 - but what you see is what happens when you leave all the dual-stage NX solenoid wires, relay wires, and power buss wires at full length. They are all connectorized, and perfectly legal. Just long.

If you've been through as many track tech inspections as I have, you too would think of ways to distract the tech inspectors from looking too hard. Hang a few distractions in front of them and they don't ask you to pull lug nuts to check the depth of thread engaged by the nut. Leave your helmet and fire jacket on the passenger seat so that they want to check certification dates. Make sure you polish your front axle nuts with a wire brush and spray w/PB Blaster so the axles look almost new, and be sure the hub covers are removed before tech. Be sure you take your laptop out of the car - leaving that in the front seat will get you tossed out now. NHRA regs are tight - at real tracks...

Making sure your MEVI switches every time, all the way, is another step toward winning - and "success is in the details".

If you just drive the streets with your MEVI, then vacuum doesn't matter....


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I got my intake manifold from the junkyard.

 

thanks

 

wow that almost looks like my project car

 

Things change - this is my project now:






.

 

it doesnt matter that ur MAF is tilted like that?

i read it had to be flat and parallel with the ground

 

It's flat (level) - if you look at it from the side. And it doesn't make a difference, IMHO.