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Nissan fix the diff bearing issue?

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Old 12-10-2007, 08:04 AM
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Nissan fix the diff bearing issue?

Question: I've read that the 95-97ish Maxima 5-speed trannys have issues with the diff bearings. When exactly did Nissan fix this problem? 97 and newer?
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Old 12-10-2007, 09:05 AM
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I don't think any of them are 'fixed'. I'm not aware of any TSBs or superceded parts which would indicate a change.

My theory about the diff bearing failures is an insufficiently stiff housing. The 5 speed housings are all basically the same from 95-01.
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Old 12-10-2007, 09:14 AM
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No fix for them i just recently had all of mine done,it's about a 4hr job if you have power tools,another good thing is you don't have to pull the tranny out.
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Old 12-10-2007, 11:05 AM
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I thought it said this in the Mechanical and Maintenance 4th Gen section:

"There seems to be a problem with the 5 speed 4 gen. Maxima's transmissions. Namely 95-97ish models with around 60,000 miles on them. A common problem is the differential bearings have failed. Seems to be that Nissan/whoever built the tranny did not bother to properly shim the preload of the differential bearings."

So I just assumed that Nissan fixed the problem on the newer 4th gens ie 97ish and newer. Is this not the case?
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Old 12-10-2007, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
My theory about the diff bearing failures is an insufficiently stiff housing. The 5 speed housings are all basically the same from 95-01.
I thought the entire problems were insufficient/incorrect shim sizes from the factory?
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Old 12-10-2007, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
I thought the entire problems were insufficient/incorrect shim sizes from the factory?
Motorvate jumped to that conclusion. Don't ask me how though, because once you replace the bearings the pre-load 'should' be skewed, and you can't take any measurments with the wasted bearings...............

Interesting theory on the housings. I have my own as well. But something about those aussie guys that are bracing them for insane hp levels has me wondering................
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Old 12-10-2007, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
I thought the entire problems were insufficient/incorrect shim sizes from the factory?
If the housing isn't stiff enough, and the housing yields a little bit (stretches), there isn't any way to know whether the original settings were accurate.

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Old 12-10-2007, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by KRRZ350
Motorvate jumped to that conclusion. Don't ask me how though, because once you replace the bearings the pre-load 'should' be skewed, and you can't take any measurments with the wasted bearings...............
Bearings are manufactured with an accuracy much tighter than the one shim size, so if you put in new bearings the endplays will be essentially the same every time.

Like I mentioned above, if the housings distort all bets are off.
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Old 12-10-2007, 10:51 PM
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Not maxima's actually, but another car that uses same tranny, but it's related to the housings.
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Old 12-11-2007, 10:14 AM
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what other car??? skyline? and on side note.... what about IPS bearings.... CRAP

I agree with Dave tho, the case tends to be weakest at the diffs. (wonder if it may be heat related at all)
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Old 12-11-2007, 11:55 AM
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Hey what are the symptoms of these bad bearings?
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Old 12-11-2007, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Minimalmaxima
Hey what are the symptoms of these bad bearings?
Your first indication will be oil leaking from the seal where the axle meets the tranny but this could also mean that you're axle needs replaced.

The tell-tale sign would be too much play in the axle due to the bearing failure.

Just inspect for oil leakage two-three times a year when you're changing the oil/rotating tires; Don't worry about it unless you're starting to loose oil level in the tranny.
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Old 12-11-2007, 12:24 PM
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Is there a tell-tale noise?
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Old 12-11-2007, 03:36 PM
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Read the faqs you fools:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=385898
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Old 12-11-2007, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by JtzMax
(wonder if it may be heat related at all)
Well on the diff and mainshaft the clearance in the bearings is critical. At operating temps, it should be very close to zero. Too much clearance and the bearings will not roll properly and quickly scuff and become garbage. Too little and the housing will squeeze too much on the bearings, causing premature failure.

Aluminum housings expand more rapidly with temperature than steel, so the preload that is built in during assembly will get smaller as the tranny gets up to temperature. If you operate the tranny frequently under heavy load when it's cold, it's possible that this could damage the bearings more rapidly than if it were gently warmed up. So yes, thermal effects are ever-present.

But I don't think it's the root cause. The shimming theory still has some validity in my mind because when I tear down these trannys I consistently fill up only a couple of sizes in my shim inventory. When I rebuild them I find I'm using just about every shim size equally. This suggests that maybe the original tranny assemblers didn't have all the shim sizes on hand to do the job properly. It also supports the evidence that some trannys last a long time and others barely make it 60k - if you are lucky your tranny needed the sizes the assemblers had available.

Last edited by dgeesaman; 12-11-2007 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 12-11-2007, 08:21 PM
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WOW, I think I like the sound of that theory. I'm going to take a wild geuss that you have a drawer overflowing with .68?
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Old 12-12-2007, 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Minimalmaxima
Is there a tell-tale noise?
Only if you let the tranny run out of oil
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Old 12-12-2007, 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by KRRZ350
WOW, I think I like the sound of that theory. I'm going to take a wild geuss that you have a drawer overflowing with .68?
A bunch of .68s and .64s, IIRC. (I used up most of them recently to fit an open diff into a VLSD clutch housing)

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Old 12-12-2007, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by headloss
Only if you let the tranny run out of oil
Is there an easy way to put transmission oil in myself? Where is the opening? How do I dump it? I probably should do that too after 187K.
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Old 12-12-2007, 06:17 AM
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2 ways to drain. The drain bolt that is a pita, or removing the black reverse/nuetral sensor, which requires experience to not break. There are threads floating around about how to change gear-oil, something in the stickies or maintenance section also maybe?. The fill is a big circular plug located on the front of trans maybe halfway up. It has a square hole in the middle, it uses a 1/2" ratchet, probably need a breaker bar on it as well. The tranny takes more than 4qt's. it is full when fluid begins to come out of the hole on level ground (ie not with the front on jackstands) You will need a tranny funnel, the flexible kind, it will sit in the area of the intake.
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Old 12-12-2007, 07:01 AM
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Let's keep this on-topic.
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Old 01-06-2008, 03:55 PM
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So other then the fluid leaking out and the axels having play in them, you can not hear these say on their way out or already worn out? Also im guessing that thier were no changes made to these trannys for the 98 so thier are still at risk.

Reason for asking is im planning to pick up a cheap daily and i wanted a 5 speed.

Last edited by 6o4allmotor; 01-06-2008 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 01-06-2008, 04:51 PM
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Aside from taking the tranny off the car and splitting it open, IMO the best indicator is looking for axle play.

Unless of course you have a vibration meter and hook it up for a test drive. I don't know anyone who's done that.

Dave
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