hey KRRZ350 PM me I have been calling you for the past week. I want you to do a 3.5 swap for me. Im in chelmsford MA and my name is Peter.

is it a direct replacement swap or do you have to fabricate parts/mounts?

dude please resize your sig
direct drop in (motor mount wise) with little fabrication

Your engine is sexy

^^ Your shirt is sexy

do you use the the upper and lower oil pans off the vq30? And put them on the vq35?

I did.

if you dont, you have to shave down about 1/4" off by the crankshaft sensor so the flywheel could read it right?

for it to read the 3.0 crank sensor I believe so. If you have the 3.5 sensor you wont have to shave it you'd just need to wire it in.

a friend kept the 3.5 pan and used the 3.5 sensor and didnt have to shave anything, just some soldering.

alright well we only have the 3.0 sensor so i guese we will use that pan , thanks man

Even better, use a nickel ($0.05). It works perfectly and you wont have to beat on anything (unless you really want to beat something)

Couple questions guys. I noticed on the vq35 this part was missing a sensor, do you reuse the one off of the vq30?.....




Also is this junk, or do you have to re use all these fuel lines ?

And one more question, on the secondary timing sprockets i noticed that the intake cams had dowels that you can slide the sprockets onto, but the exhaust cams didnt have them, so how would you line up the sprocket on the cam? Or am i missing a piece?

junk all those fuel line.
the egr/map etc sensors I saved and plugged back in and tied it off somewhere.
use the 3.0 coolant log (minus all those extra lines)


ninja: the intake sprocket needed the dowel pin relocated. the exhaust cam sprocket just needed the spacer.

so do the exhaust cams not need a dowel pin? Only a spacer?

update: secondary sprockets and chains are one, test fitted the timing chain now im posting pics to make sure that its correct ... One question, how does the exhaust cams move if theres no dowel pin going through the sprocket?

nice keep up the good work buddy

I've been considering this swap for awhile.

You need to use the 3.0 dowel pin in the 3.5 exhaust cam. It's longer. Very important....

?? i thought the intake cams only need the dowel pin repositioned, and the exhaust cams just needed the spacer?

the exhaust cam (3.5) is supposed to have a dowel pin on it. Once you put the spacer on it the dowel pin wont stick out as far as it was before but should be enough to get the sprocket on, and seated. Once its torqued down you'll be fine.

do you still see/have a dowel pin in the 3.5 exhaust cam?

no there was no dowel pins on either exhaust cam, this is how the motor was...

Well, you should take the dowel pins from the VQ30 exhaust cams and insert them into the 3.5 exhaust cams.

will do, thanks

Does the dowel pin just pull out, or do you have to screw it out, i dont want to mess it up

It just comes out, no threads. A pair of pliers should do the trick.

Also do the cams need to be facing a certain way in a certain position when putting the secondary sprockets and chains on?

The dowel pins should be inline with their respective cylinder banks. 11 o'clock or 1 o'clock depending on the side.

When i tighten this bolt to the inner timing chain cover, the guide moves back and forth freeley when its fully tightened. Should there be a washer or something to fill this gap?

Nope. It's designed to be that way. It needs to be free to move even after being tightened.

it needs to be able to move right to left AND back and forth? Also when i rotate the whole assembly by the crank bolt, the tensioner pops in and out and the chain has a little bit of slack at the very top where that guide covers it. Should there be any slack in the chain?

Torque it to spec, that's all you need to do. Line everything up then make sure ALL of the slack is on the tensioner side. Since there's no oil pressure at the tensioner it will bob in and out if you turn it. Not a concern.

I would prime the tensioner before putting it back together though. Either submerge it in oil with the plunger out and then insert it while still submerged, or pour oil in the tensioner body.

After the timing chain and tensioner and everything is on, and you rotate the entire assembly by the crank bolt, will the marks on the sprockets ever match up with the marks on the chain along with the yellow link down by the crank ? I rotated it about 4 revolutions and the marks on the sprockets / crank never matched back up with the marks on the chain .

The marks won't match up again for a while. Don't worry about that too much. Just set it correctly and close her up.

The only part im worried about is how much slack the chain has as some point. Sometimes the chain is tight, and as you keep turning, the tensioner pops in and moves the entire long guide back with it and that gives the chain a lot a slack, but if you keep turning the tensioner will pop back out and push the guide back out and the chain will be nice and tight again. Thats what im worried about, is that supposed to happen? Here are some pics to better understand what im talking about...

You can see how the tensioner pops in and out and how the guide moves back and force, giving the chain slack as you rotate it ...

I knew what you meant. That's normal. While cranking and running there will be oil pressure at the tensioner so that shouldn't concern you. Don't bother with turning it over by hand a million times either. Just line everything up properly, make sure ALL the slack is on the tensioner side, and close it up. I've done this quite a few times and there's nothing more to it than that.


BTW, in those pictures you're missing two guides. One at the top and one between the water pump and intake sprocket. Make sure those are in before you replace the timing cover.

UPDATE ! about damn time we finally had some time this evening to drop the motor in the car. Hopefully it will be done tomorow, if not deffinetly saturday since i dont work or anything, anyways onto the pics...

you guys look so happy. lol i wuold be too....