rear brakes on fire!
01-15-2008, 09:48 PM
#1
rear brakes on fire!
I was driving to the store lastnight, and another Maxima pulled up next to me and told me that my rear brakes were on fire! 
I drove home and sure enoughy they stank a whole bunch. To make matters worse, I just replaced the rear calipers with black powder coated ones! Ever since Midas installed my SS brake lines a year ago, they broke my driver side rear caliper's e brake, so I was driving with only one e brake working for almost a year. I just installed the new calipers and now they seem to be constantly engaged, and my e brake lever has no resistance until about an inch from the disengagement. My question is: Did i ruin the Calipers? I hope not...any suggestions as to why they are constantly engaged? Maybe the cable is messed up? They only engage constantly half the time, the other half they seemed okay.
I drove home and sure enoughy they stank a whole bunch. To make matters worse, I just replaced the rear calipers with black powder coated ones! Ever since Midas installed my SS brake lines a year ago, they broke my driver side rear caliper's e brake, so I was driving with only one e brake working for almost a year. I just installed the new calipers and now they seem to be constantly engaged, and my e brake lever has no resistance until about an inch from the disengagement. My question is: Did i ruin the Calipers? I hope not...any suggestions as to why they are constantly engaged? Maybe the cable is messed up? They only engage constantly half the time, the other half they seemed okay.
01-15-2008, 10:06 PM
#4
If you don't use the parking brake (and of course I don't really suggest this at all, but it's your car), you could just unhook the cable and make sure the lever is set to the disengaged point, problem solved.
Well...averted, anyway.
Well...averted, anyway.
01-15-2008, 10:27 PM
#5
I use the parking break frequently. You think the calipers seals are damaged or anything? You have any other ideas how I can fix this?
01-15-2008, 10:34 PM
#6
Have you taken a look at the cable? It's common for the cables to be damaged right about where they attach at the trailing arms, due to improper lifting techniques.
01-16-2008, 03:58 AM
#8
So if theyre sticking then I need to lubricate or replace them? I think that they are sticking which would explain the freeplay in the brake lever. You think the calipers are still good though?
01-16-2008, 04:54 AM
#9
fire and calipers = no good results.
I would bet that:
1) your rotors are warped do to the heating
2) any rubber bits (dust boots) are long gone and melted away.
3) you parking brake cable needs to be replaced.
You might be ok with a rebuild kit, but I think I would just buy some loaded calipers and return the "fire sale" ones for the core charge.
Oh, and how did midas mess up your rear parking brake cable if they were working on the front brakes?
I would bet that:
1) your rotors are warped do to the heating
2) any rubber bits (dust boots) are long gone and melted away.
3) you parking brake cable needs to be replaced.
You might be ok with a rebuild kit, but I think I would just buy some loaded calipers and return the "fire sale" ones for the core charge.
Oh, and how did midas mess up your rear parking brake cable if they were working on the front brakes?
01-16-2008, 05:14 AM
#10
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Who/where did the powder coated calipers come from? If the coating is on any surface that slides, such as the inside of the caliper or the piston, thats a problem. Also check to make sure your guide pins are not siezed up. Thats a common problem with our brakes and it's an easy fix as well.
01-16-2008, 05:43 AM
#12
fire and calipers = no good results.
I would bet that:
1) your rotors are warped do to the heating
2) any rubber bits (dust boots) are long gone and melted away.
3) you parking brake cable needs to be replaced.
You might be ok with a rebuild kit, but I think I would just buy some loaded calipers and return the "fire sale" ones for the core charge.
Oh, and how did midas mess up your rear parking brake cable if they were working on the front brakes?
I would bet that:
1) your rotors are warped do to the heating
2) any rubber bits (dust boots) are long gone and melted away.
3) you parking brake cable needs to be replaced.
You might be ok with a rebuild kit, but I think I would just buy some loaded calipers and return the "fire sale" ones for the core charge.
Oh, and how did midas mess up your rear parking brake cable if they were working on the front brakes?
01-16-2008, 05:46 AM
#13
Who/where did the powder coated calipers come from? If the coating is on any surface that slides, such as the inside of the caliper or the piston, thats a problem. Also check to make sure your guide pins are not siezed up. Thats a common problem with our brakes and it's an easy fix as well.
01-16-2008, 09:45 AM
#14
I don't know what condition your calipers are in. It's possible that the seals in them are now damaged from the extreme heat, but I'd just start with the cables and see what happens.
Dave
01-16-2008, 12:59 PM
#16
When I put my new powdercoated rear calipers on, and new brakes, my right rear brake had white smoke coming out from it with a nasty smell. when I stopped the car, there was serious smoke coming from the caliper. It stopped after 10 minutes and never happened again. It happens sometimes when breaking in new brakes. It shouldn't happen again.
01-16-2008, 02:14 PM
#17
When I put my new powdercoated rear calipers on, and new brakes, my right rear brake had white smoke coming out from it with a nasty smell. when I stopped the car, there was serious smoke coming from the caliper. It stopped after 10 minutes and never happened again. It happens sometimes when breaking in new brakes. It shouldn't happen again.
01-16-2008, 02:20 PM
#18
If the parking brake lines are siezed, you'll be able to tell by checking the position of the arms on the calipers with the brake down.. then have someone pull the brake up and watch at the caliper for movement. if they don't move, then one or both lines are siezed.
If they do move, then it may possibly be the slider pins on the caliper that are frozen, causing the caliper to always push on the pads causing the brakes to bind.
If you can get to the exhaust heat shield easily, pull it off under the parking brake handle and have someone work the brake lever inside the car. you can see if they're moving properly there too.
If so, then you 'wasted' a 1/2 hour. If not, then you're 1/2 way done with the job of replacing the frozen lines.
FYI, the lines aren't that expensive from the dealer. like $20 or so. really not as $$ as I thought they would be.
If they do move, then it may possibly be the slider pins on the caliper that are frozen, causing the caliper to always push on the pads causing the brakes to bind.
If you can get to the exhaust heat shield easily, pull it off under the parking brake handle and have someone work the brake lever inside the car. you can see if they're moving properly there too.
If so, then you 'wasted' a 1/2 hour. If not, then you're 1/2 way done with the job of replacing the frozen lines.
FYI, the lines aren't that expensive from the dealer. like $20 or so. really not as $$ as I thought they would be.
01-16-2008, 06:09 PM
#19
If the parking brake lines are siezed, you'll be able to tell by checking the position of the arms on the calipers with the brake down.. then have someone pull the brake up and watch at the caliper for movement. if they don't move, then one or both lines are siezed.
If they do move, then it may possibly be the slider pins on the caliper that are frozen, causing the caliper to always push on the pads causing the brakes to bind.
If you can get to the exhaust heat shield easily, pull it off under the parking brake handle and have someone work the brake lever inside the car. you can see if they're moving properly there too.
If so, then you 'wasted' a 1/2 hour. If not, then you're 1/2 way done with the job of replacing the frozen lines.
FYI, the lines aren't that expensive from the dealer. like $20 or so. really not as $$ as I thought they would be.
If they do move, then it may possibly be the slider pins on the caliper that are frozen, causing the caliper to always push on the pads causing the brakes to bind.
If you can get to the exhaust heat shield easily, pull it off under the parking brake handle and have someone work the brake lever inside the car. you can see if they're moving properly there too.
If so, then you 'wasted' a 1/2 hour. If not, then you're 1/2 way done with the job of replacing the frozen lines.
FYI, the lines aren't that expensive from the dealer. like $20 or so. really not as $$ as I thought they would be.
01-17-2008, 09:46 AM
#24
Guys at the track regularly run rotors so hot they crack. Their problem is wear and cracking, not warping.
Dave
01-17-2008, 08:56 PM
#25
the thing that concerns me the most now is the condition of the calipers, I hope the seals are still good.
01-17-2008, 10:33 PM
#26
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Posts: 4,572
Collapsed hoses can cause that also, but I don't think that's even possible with ss one's, but it's very easy to check for. Crack the bleeder screw, if the wheel suddenly spins easy.... bingo!
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