Intake manifold OFF. What should I do since I'm already here? *PICTURES TO HELP*
01-19-2008, 02:04 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 888
Intake manifold OFF. What should I do since I'm already here? *PICTURES TO HELP*
Before I start, I want to say thanks to sparky1562 & pmohr and this forum as a whole. 
I've learned a lot and saved myself a lot of money and time (well maybe not but I learn). What's best is that peace of mind doing things on my own and going the extra step.
Specs:
90,000 miles - 97 AUTO
I've been trying to correct the SPARK PLUG TUBE so I had to take the INTAKE Manifold off to get to the rear valve cover. Finally ! I get there and I want to replace those 2 COOLANT hoses that run from the firewall to the front (under the Throttle Body).
I plan to get more pictures so maybe future people can look at it and have it better.
I've learned a lot and saved myself a lot of money and time (well maybe not but I learn). What's best is that peace of mind doing things on my own and going the extra step.Specs:
90,000 miles - 97 AUTO
I've been trying to correct the SPARK PLUG TUBE so I had to take the INTAKE Manifold off to get to the rear valve cover. Finally ! I get there and I want to replace those 2 COOLANT hoses that run from the firewall to the front (under the Throttle Body).
*What's the name of those 2 hoses?
How about the name of the ones by the EGR?
Name of these Vaccum hoses? I can proally get some cut to fit, but anybody know where?
TB + IACV?
My questions are:
1) Should I get those screw in type clamps or just use NISSAN's metal clips they have on the hoses? I realize that the hoses might expand and that the screw in types won't hold well perhaps ?
2) What other maintenances or changes should I do since I am already here? Should I shoot some brake cleaner down my intake mani? I dont' wanna mess it up.
3) Where can I get NISSAN specific COOLING / VACCUM hoses in general?
4) I can clean the IACV and TB right? Might as well replace the gaskets as well?
*Any suggestions and help welcomed.1) Should I get those screw in type clamps or just use NISSAN's metal clips they have on the hoses? I realize that the hoses might expand and that the screw in types won't hold well perhaps ?
2) What other maintenances or changes should I do since I am already here? Should I shoot some brake cleaner down my intake mani? I dont' wanna mess it up.
3) Where can I get NISSAN specific COOLING / VACCUM hoses in general?
4) I can clean the IACV and TB right? Might as well replace the gaskets as well?
I plan to get more pictures so maybe future people can look at it and have it better.
Last edited by FishyMan; 01-19-2008 at 02:40 PM.
01-19-2008, 03:19 PM
#2
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 2,391
From what i know and done:
-definitely separate the TB and IACV and clean it with TB cleaner for TB and carb cleaner for IACV, replace gaskets (metal one for iacv paper for TB buy them fro mthe dealer)
Dealer MAY carry those hoses or im sure you can order them from nissan
i would not suggest brake cleaner down the intake man. but some carb cleaner may help.. it will eventually get dirty as well, dont forget to replace the PCV valve and KS if you need to, you could take out all 6 injectors while you got the rear man out and clean them (never did this so i do not have the details)...fuel filter is easy to reach from there if you need to replace it as well...and the EGR ... definitely take the pipe off and clean it.. its in the second last pic, sticking up to the left of the top red circle...with 2 bolt holes and the center opening...thats all that comes to my mind right now
-definitely separate the TB and IACV and clean it with TB cleaner for TB and carb cleaner for IACV, replace gaskets (metal one for iacv paper for TB buy them fro mthe dealer)
Dealer MAY carry those hoses or im sure you can order them from nissan
i would not suggest brake cleaner down the intake man. but some carb cleaner may help.. it will eventually get dirty as well, dont forget to replace the PCV valve and KS if you need to, you could take out all 6 injectors while you got the rear man out and clean them (never did this so i do not have the details)...fuel filter is easy to reach from there if you need to replace it as well...and the EGR ... definitely take the pipe off and clean it.. its in the second last pic, sticking up to the left of the top red circle...with 2 bolt holes and the center opening...thats all that comes to my mind right now
01-19-2008, 04:52 PM
#5
Ok,
Clean TB and IACV. Gaskets? Ehh, Ive taken mine apart 2-3 times and never replaced. No leaks(tested by shop).
If I were you, I would bypass the manifold and TB coolant lines. This means, the line that runs into the manifold should be attached to the line that comes out of the TB. This way, you wont ever have to deal with it again, and if you do the 00VI swap, it wont be an issue. This is what I would do and it wont hurt in any way, shape or form.
Cleaning the UIM: If you are going to clean it, then remove the EGR system. There is no point in cleaning it if you are going to keep it in, in 6 months it is going to be back the same way, trust me! NOW, if you want to clean it, use the following stuff: Paint stripper. Pressure Washer. Brushes. That will take care of everything.
(personal experience, Ive done this a few times)
EGR system is easy to remove BTW.
Clean TB and IACV. Gaskets? Ehh, Ive taken mine apart 2-3 times and never replaced. No leaks(tested by shop).
If I were you, I would bypass the manifold and TB coolant lines. This means, the line that runs into the manifold should be attached to the line that comes out of the TB. This way, you wont ever have to deal with it again, and if you do the 00VI swap, it wont be an issue. This is what I would do and it wont hurt in any way, shape or form.
Cleaning the UIM: If you are going to clean it, then remove the EGR system. There is no point in cleaning it if you are going to keep it in, in 6 months it is going to be back the same way, trust me! NOW, if you want to clean it, use the following stuff: Paint stripper. Pressure Washer. Brushes. That will take care of everything.
(personal experience, Ive done this a few times)
EGR system is easy to remove BTW.
Last edited by MOHFpro90; 01-19-2008 at 04:56 PM.
01-19-2008, 05:33 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 888
Ok,
Clean TB and IACV. Gaskets? Ehh, Ive taken mine apart 2-3 times and never replaced. No leaks(tested by shop).
If I were you, I would bypass the manifold and TB coolant lines. This means, the line that runs into the manifold should be attached to the line that comes out of the TB. This way, you wont ever have to deal with it again, and if you do the 00VI swap, it wont be an issue. This is what I would do and it wont hurt in any way, shape or form.
Cleaning the UIM: If you are going to clean it, then remove the EGR system. There is no point in cleaning it if you are going to keep it in, in 6 months it is going to be back the same way, trust me! NOW, if you want to clean it, use the following stuff: Paint stripper. Pressure Washer. Brushes. That will take care of everything.
(personal experience, Ive done this a few times)
EGR system is easy to remove BTW.
Clean TB and IACV. Gaskets? Ehh, Ive taken mine apart 2-3 times and never replaced. No leaks(tested by shop).
If I were you, I would bypass the manifold and TB coolant lines. This means, the line that runs into the manifold should be attached to the line that comes out of the TB. This way, you wont ever have to deal with it again, and if you do the 00VI swap, it wont be an issue. This is what I would do and it wont hurt in any way, shape or form.
Cleaning the UIM: If you are going to clean it, then remove the EGR system. There is no point in cleaning it if you are going to keep it in, in 6 months it is going to be back the same way, trust me! NOW, if you want to clean it, use the following stuff: Paint stripper. Pressure Washer. Brushes. That will take care of everything.
(personal experience, Ive done this a few times)
EGR system is easy to remove BTW.
My gaskets ripped as I unscrewed things, so I suppose I just gotta get new ones.
My EGR pipe was dirty, but not CLOGGED. I scraped some out, but some of the 'carbon' build up might've fell in? Is that a problem? Nothing was really clogged and my IACV is pretty clean actually. TB back plate was gunked but I cleaned it.
I'll attempt the EGR.
I found my problem, the tube seal fell DOWN ward completely.
01-19-2008, 06:09 PM
#8
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 113
The 2 coolant hoses that connect to the back of the intake -I purchased from Courtesy Nissan for under $ 5.00 each. Also replaced the big rubber gasket that the intake
sits on ( $ 4.36 at Courtesy.)
After 285,000 miles my egr pipe was still pretty clean. I had a few chunks of goo in the
port on the intake where the egr connects to. I had cleaned this port out (via the IACV
opening) at around 200k - when I had the 0302 code as it was completely clogged back
then.
Vacuum hose should be available at any auto parts place.
I used the "regular" hose clamps on those hoses at the back of the intake -those spring
clamps were a pain to remove.
Trying to clean the inside of the intake is futile imo, mine's dirty as hell , but the car still
runs incredibly smooth.
sits on ( $ 4.36 at Courtesy.)
After 285,000 miles my egr pipe was still pretty clean. I had a few chunks of goo in the
port on the intake where the egr connects to. I had cleaned this port out (via the IACV
opening) at around 200k - when I had the 0302 code as it was completely clogged back
then.
Vacuum hose should be available at any auto parts place.
I used the "regular" hose clamps on those hoses at the back of the intake -those spring
clamps were a pain to remove.
Trying to clean the inside of the intake is futile imo, mine's dirty as hell , but the car still
runs incredibly smooth.
01-19-2008, 06:41 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 888
^^ Thanks. I'll leave the EGR alone. I don't think it's bad. It's not clogged. I'm just awaiting my parts to come in.
I gotta pickup the gaskets at the dealership.
1 big question. Do I need any 'sealant' on the TUBE seals itself? The seal FELL down, therefore causing me this problem. I picked up some GRAY gasket thingy.
I gotta pickup the gaskets at the dealership.
1 big question. Do I need any 'sealant' on the TUBE seals itself? The seal FELL down, therefore causing me this problem. I picked up some GRAY gasket thingy.
01-19-2008, 06:46 PM
#11
Ok,
Clean TB and IACV. Gaskets? Ehh, Ive taken mine apart 2-3 times and never replaced. No leaks(tested by shop).
If I were you, I would bypass the manifold and TB coolant lines. This means, the line that runs into the manifold should be attached to the line that comes out of the TB. This way, you wont ever have to deal with it again, and if you do the 00VI swap, it wont be an issue. This is what I would do and it wont hurt in any way, shape or form.
Clean TB and IACV. Gaskets? Ehh, Ive taken mine apart 2-3 times and never replaced. No leaks(tested by shop).
If I were you, I would bypass the manifold and TB coolant lines. This means, the line that runs into the manifold should be attached to the line that comes out of the TB. This way, you wont ever have to deal with it again, and if you do the 00VI swap, it wont be an issue. This is what I would do and it wont hurt in any way, shape or form.
01-19-2008, 07:26 PM
#13
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
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There is a device on the throttle-body called the "fast-Idle cam" that increases the cold idle, it needs those coolant lines connected to function properly. Leave them. But the one at the IM is worthless and can be bypassed to ease re-assembly.
The ones with red dot's are for heater core, is there an issue with them? They should be fine. Everything underhood on your car looks superb. New-england engine bays FTL.
Vaccum line-- get anywhere, nissan specific not an issue. Sure japenese made rubber might be superior, lmao, but are you going to have the car for 40 years? Sme would apply to coolant lines, but it looks like you won't need those either, you can probably cut back enough. Clamps, yeah for the most part re-using the clamps that are the compressed type is fine, but some stainless worm-type clamps; available anywhere; would be the preffered method.
EGR tube, you said yours isn't clogged, but don't forget to look on the manifold side, you never specifically mentioned, and that is where you will spend your time poking/chiseling out the chunks.
Don't spray carb cleaner down the manifold.
The ones with red dot's are for heater core, is there an issue with them? They should be fine. Everything underhood on your car looks superb. New-england engine bays FTL.
Vaccum line-- get anywhere, nissan specific not an issue. Sure japenese made rubber might be superior, lmao, but are you going to have the car for 40 years? Sme would apply to coolant lines, but it looks like you won't need those either, you can probably cut back enough. Clamps, yeah for the most part re-using the clamps that are the compressed type is fine, but some stainless worm-type clamps; available anywhere; would be the preffered method.
EGR tube, you said yours isn't clogged, but don't forget to look on the manifold side, you never specifically mentioned, and that is where you will spend your time poking/chiseling out the chunks.
Don't spray carb cleaner down the manifold.
01-19-2008, 07:36 PM
#14
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 888
There is a device on the throttle-body called the "fast-Idle cam" that increases the cold idle, it needs those coolant lines connected to function properly. Leave them. But the one at the IM is worthless and can be bypassed to ease re-assembly.
The ones with red dot's are for heater core, is there an issue with them? They should be fine. Everything underhood on your car looks superb. New-england engine bays FTL.
Vaccum line-- get anywhere, nissan specific not an issue. Sure japenese made rubber might be superior, lmao, but are you going to have the car for 40 years? Sme would apply to coolant lines, but it looks like you won't need those either, you can probably cut back enough. Clamps, yeah for the most part re-using the clamps that are the compressed type is fine, but some stainless worm-type clamps; available anywhere; would be the preffered method.
EGR tube, you said yours isn't clogged, but don't forget to look on the manifold side, you never specifically mentioned, and that is where you will spend your time poking/chiseling out the chunks.
Don't spray carb cleaner down the manifold.
The ones with red dot's are for heater core, is there an issue with them? They should be fine. Everything underhood on your car looks superb. New-england engine bays FTL.
Vaccum line-- get anywhere, nissan specific not an issue. Sure japenese made rubber might be superior, lmao, but are you going to have the car for 40 years? Sme would apply to coolant lines, but it looks like you won't need those either, you can probably cut back enough. Clamps, yeah for the most part re-using the clamps that are the compressed type is fine, but some stainless worm-type clamps; available anywhere; would be the preffered method.
EGR tube, you said yours isn't clogged, but don't forget to look on the manifold side, you never specifically mentioned, and that is where you will spend your time poking/chiseling out the chunks.
Don't spray carb cleaner down the manifold.
I will try check locally for vac lines. I know we got coolant lines though.
I just wanna change the heater core ones. There's no issue, but I just wanna do it since I'm already there.
So I am bypassing this right?
01-19-2008, 08:32 PM
#15
There is a device on the throttle-body called the "fast-Idle cam" that increases the cold idle, it needs those coolant lines connected to function properly. Leave them. But the one at the IM is worthless and can be bypassed to ease re-assembly.
The ones with red dot's are for heater core, is there an issue with them? They should be fine. Everything underhood on your car looks superb. New-england engine bays FTL.
Vaccum line-- get anywhere, nissan specific not an issue. Sure japenese made rubber might be superior, lmao, but are you going to have the car for 40 years? Sme would apply to coolant lines, but it looks like you won't need those either, you can probably cut back enough. Clamps, yeah for the most part re-using the clamps that are the compressed type is fine, but some stainless worm-type clamps; available anywhere; would be the preffered method.
EGR tube, you said yours isn't clogged, but don't forget to look on the manifold side, you never specifically mentioned, and that is where you will spend your time poking/chiseling out the chunks.
Don't spray carb cleaner down the manifold.
The ones with red dot's are for heater core, is there an issue with them? They should be fine. Everything underhood on your car looks superb. New-england engine bays FTL.
Vaccum line-- get anywhere, nissan specific not an issue. Sure japenese made rubber might be superior, lmao, but are you going to have the car for 40 years? Sme would apply to coolant lines, but it looks like you won't need those either, you can probably cut back enough. Clamps, yeah for the most part re-using the clamps that are the compressed type is fine, but some stainless worm-type clamps; available anywhere; would be the preffered method.
EGR tube, you said yours isn't clogged, but don't forget to look on the manifold side, you never specifically mentioned, and that is where you will spend your time poking/chiseling out the chunks.
Don't spray carb cleaner down the manifold.
Agree, Agree
Yeah, check the EGR. Remember, cleaning the manifold wont do much if you are going to be running EGR and no PCV catch can, it will get dirty pretty quickly. I cleaned mine at 75K, and by 90K it was just as dirty again.
No carb cleaner? If he rinses and dries, why not? I know it can screw with the idle, but after rinsing, with the trace ammounts? Would it still affect it?
01-19-2008, 08:44 PM
#16
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Nope, '00vi swap = 5th gen TB
What will the residual oil in the manifold affect? Nothing.But if you try to rinse it out by spraying it further in, possibly plugs, o2's, cat.
What will the residual oil in the manifold affect? Nothing.But if you try to rinse it out by spraying it further in, possibly plugs, o2's, cat.
01-19-2008, 09:10 PM
#17
I thought he was taking the mani out of the car to actually clean it? Like on a work bench? Then spray all the cleaner you want, just rinse it with water and dry(the inside of course).
01-20-2008, 10:47 AM
#19
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 888
^^ one last thing. for the 'sealant', would it be alright to apply to BOTH sides of things like gaskets?
- my tube seals felll down from the rocker arm AROUND the spark plug tube, thus allowing oil to get in. i'm planning on using some sealant on those as well.
- my tube seals felll down from the rocker arm AROUND the spark plug tube, thus allowing oil to get in. i'm planning on using some sealant on those as well.
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