i bought my max at 87k. i now have 182k. i have never changed the rear pads. 100 + k miles on rears. is this normal?. im kinda scared that they arnt even working or something. i dont notice any difference in pad thickness since i bought the max.

 

calipers probly stuck open....how does the rotor look ?

 

looks fine, no rust buildup, no visibles cracks. cant tell if they are warped but my car doesnt vibrate when i brake.

 

check the inside pad as well, if the caliper slider pins rusted from the inside of the boot then the caliper may be closing on the outside, but not moving on the inside causing uneven ad wear...take the wheel off and inspect visually

i dont think 100K for rear pads is normal

 

yeah i didnt think so either. i just assumed they were low after 100k, so i bought pads for a 4 wheel brake change this weekend. i glanced at the pad this afternnon and noticed alot of pad left. im a change them anyway, cause 100k isnt normal and i already bought everything.

 

100K is definitely not normal, the most i've got out of my rear OEM pads was 50K.

 

whats the usual cause of a stuck caliper and is it an easy fix?

 

if the slider pins are rusted thats an easy fix.. take off the rubber boots (2 per caliper) take out the rusted pins, sand them down/buff them tyll they shine, use proper grease and lubricate them, do not over lube or they will not slide...

if the piston is hard to turn back you will need to rebuild/replace the caliper

 

thanks man. been alot of help. looks like i have more work on sunday than i thought.

 

I have been told that your rear brakes wear at a ratio of 3:1 when compared to the front brakes.
Meaning, you will go through about 3 sets of front pads before you need to change your rear pads. This is assuming normal daily driving. Track condition are different.
How many time has the fronts been changed?

 

The original rear pads on my 95 SE went 132K miles, while the original fronts went just over 90K. Since 138K (to the current 192K), I've gone through two sets of stuck rear calipers - common on Maximas.

The good news is the rear calipers are simple to replace (takes about 1/2 hour each tops), and they only cost about $100 each.

 

Check for stuck calipers in the rear. If everything is fine and you have pad left, I would re-install the old pads back on. It is not uncommon for rear pads to last that long.

Keep the new pads for replacement when the old ones wear down or simply return them.

 

ill take everything apart and check things out this weekend i have already got new rotors and pads for front and back. if the rear brakes seem to be in good condition and just stuck, ill just reuse and get come funds back.

i changed the fronts at around 120k to quietstops. they lasted about 60 k(now), so only 1 set. im not sure if i'm still on oem rear pads though,

I ended up buying those PBR metal masters from the group deal forum. those any good? ive kinda read bad reviews about them from other car forums over the net.

 

jack the rear of the car up and pull up e brake.see if either of the wheels still free spins to check calipers first.......

 

yea, did the bakes on my 96 in august. the back calipers were completely stuck. had to have them rebuilt. the pads on them were next to new on thickness. and like you said, rotors were good and not showing any rust. my 97 has 212K and the guy i bought it from was the second owner from 34K and hes said he had never replaced the rears, so i KNOW those are stuck, and i know they are down to nothing anyway. its not my priority max right now so theyve stayed that way since i bought it.

 

i got a 5spd... parking brake works. if it didnt if have alot of bumper dings. .. if the parking brake works, wouldnt that mean that calipers arnt stuck?

 

The brakes probaly aren't stuck right now but the pistons sometime does not like to rotate back into the housing, when you change the rear pads. I was planning on just doing rotors and pad but it wouldn't rotate back in. Be prepared to buy caliper in case they dont rotate back in. Mine were really rusty though. The shims just shreded apart. Pads were super thin, they had 100k and were shot. Just follow the manual and shouldn't be too tough. If your following this write up don't forget to put the pad return springs in!!! http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/300 rears are pretty much identical but the caliper rotate back in. Good luck

 

the front and rear pads were new when I bought mine. It had 120K on it and now it has 210K I have not touched the rears yet but they do work. Just a year ago I did the fronts (rotors and pads) for the first time at 187k on it.

 

if you have a 5spd, that sounds about right, I've had three manuals so far (passed down through the family), and I haven't had to even think about changing brakes until the cars have close to 100k on them. It all depends on how you drive, if you've got a led foot for the brakes, if you down shift, traffic or highway driving, etc. when I do brakes I usually just replace all rotors calipers, pads, etc. a good place to get them cheap is www.rockauto.com

 

yeah i have front and rear rotors, and pads for all 4 corners. but the pads on the rear still look good. depending on how they look when i take them out ill cange them.

 

mine are still good after 95k and i got a 5 speed...... i dont see them going bad anytime soon they got changed when i first bought the car