Lately my car's been making some noise as i make left turns.
I checked it out today, and noticed a torn boot.
I searched a bit and found that it's the outer drive axle boot. see pic

(camera phone=blurry pic)

im just wondering what would be the best (inexpensive, and effective) way to fix this.thanks

 

Replace the axle. Don't even think about just replacing the boot unless you want to have to pull it out again later, just to replace the whole axle.

 

alright. where would be the best place to get a replacement, how much should i expect to pay, and is it a job i could do or should i bring it to the shop? thanks for the quick response

 

Replace the entire axle that's your best bet. If it's already making allot of noise, it may be more damaged then you think. Just replace it, it's hassle free that way. Where are you from?

 

It's a easy, easy *** job. Not hard at all. You will need a wheel alignment when your done.

 

im in CT. Im hoping i can do the repair with my dad with a little guidance.
and im hoping it doesn't cost much since i just payed a $220 speeding ticket haha thanks

 

When you're done replacing an axle? What are you, a service manager?

In any case, it's about a 30 minute job from wheels up to wheels down. Axle is anywhere from $60 to $160, depending on where you go (that's auto parts stores - Raxles). Actually it goes up to $500, but that's a brand new one from the dealer...

It's not that hard at all, even for a newbie. Looks like driver's side? Pop the old one out (held in by a circlip), pop the new one in. Problem solved (with some minor other work in there, axle nut and such).

 

Wait wait, first do you have a 5spd or Auto? If you have a 5spd you will need to drain your tranny fluid or it will pour out when you pull the axle and then you will have a big *** mess. ATF sits in the pan, no worries there, only on 5spd you have to drain tranny. It's best to pull both, and put the old good one in, and put the new one in as well at the same time so you don't tear up the opposite axle. Let me rephrase it "may" tear up the opposite side, not definite but it may.

 

What do you mean 'tear up' the opposite axle?

 

My buddy got his axle from autozone... dont remember how much he payed but you get a rebate/discount if you bring the old one in after you replace it.
Also, I wouldnt call this job easy. I guess its not too complicated but it took us a WHILE to get the old axle out... huge pain in the a$$.

 

HEY WHAT I USED WAS A BREAKER BAR, THE SOCKET FOR IT, AND I USED A 5 FOOT POLL, THE ONE USED FOR FENCES. WELL I SLID THE BREAKER BAR IN THE 5 FOOT POLL AND POPPED IT LOSE WITH NO EFFORT. ONE LITTLE PUSH WITH THAT LEVERAGE AND CRACK.

 

Caps lock much?

 

IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH CAPS LOCK??

 

Yes - its very annoying.

 

WOW SOMEONE MUST HAVE A BORING LIFESTYLE, ACTUALLY WORRYING ABOUT CAPS.

 

^^^ it's considered YELLING .... noob!

As for the axle, it's not a difficult job at all. You do NOT need to remove the oppisite axle for anything. If you jack the car up right, you don't even need to drain the trany. You'll need a 36mm socket to remove the axle nut (don't loose the cotter key or washer either). You can use a jack handle inbetween the lugs to stop the rotor from spinning while taking off / putting on the axle nut. You will need a breaker bar or impact to remove the nut ... have fun, tis a beotch. With the nut off, unbolt the two strut knuckle bolts (just above the rotor assy) (17mm and 19mm deep) then push the axle thru the rotor and turn the strut 90 degrees to give you more room - the axle will just fit, use some muscle - but beware the brake line - don't apply too much pressure to it. Once the axle is free, get a hold of the axle (not the boot or outter spleen) push in and YANK it out. should come out just fine. May have to yank on it a couple times but it's easy really. Reverse the steps to re-install. Job done!

Raxles is good to get axles from ... or you can find some place local (Autozoze or Pepboys maybe) .... G'luck, keep us posted.

 

ok, thanks for all the help.
i have an auto, btw.
i went and priced them at advanced auto, it was 80 bucks with a lifetime warranty... i think that's a winner.

would it be worth it to replace just the boot on the other side,
to prevent this from happening to the passenger side?

 

Only if it's damaged.

 

^^^^ agreed FTW




pmohr for president 08' lol

 

alright, i think it's fine.
i'll probly just double check to make sure.
I dunno if i'm going to do the actual replacement,
i have a feeling that it'll take a while for me to do it,
and im pretty busy lately :/
hopefully this week i'll get it done.

thanks for the help

 

What are the signs of a worn out or tired axle or going to fail axle. When I brake at moderate speeds the steering coln shakes and the only thing that hasn't been changed on my suspension are the axles.

FYI, I have no sounds etc but the odd steering shake while braking.

 

braking shake is from the brakes. not an axle. if you have a bad axle, you turn the wheel and here it "click" .... or it may not "click", but "thud" instead. it could also be your struts .... under hard breaking. does the car pull to one side or the other while breaking? something to check on .... also, is it only during hard breaking, or all the time?

 

[QUOTE=pmohr;6247766]When you're done replacing an axle? What are you, a service manager?

Hey PMOHR are you saying you don't need alignment? It appears that anytime you have to remove the two lower nuts from the front struts you mess up the alignment. Is that not true?

 

[QUOTE=Nopike;6251548]You don't need one, no. You might change the camber a slight amount, and therefore mess up the toe a small amount as well.

But required? Not a bit.

 

I had to get mine aligned.

Also, WHAT IS WRONG WITH JUST REPLACING THE BOOTS? Okay, caps off now.

I caught mine soon after the first one ripped, and replaced all four boots. It was messy, and took a while, but cheaper.

 

How far out of spec were your toe and camber?

Replacing the boots is not recommended if they've been ripped for an indeterminate period of time, or you know they've been ripped for a 'while' (obviously personal preference determines how long is too much for you). Dirt gets into the joint, wears away at the insides. MTBF is decreased as a result.

 

Not much, but I didn't get it back exactly where the strut was positioned before and it was noticeable.

I here you on the boots, but I had just been under the car a few days before, and noticed the grease that had spun out on the inner fender. If I had to do it again, I would just replace the entire axle. Replacing the boot was no fun...

 

alright,
so the plan is, im buying the drive axle from advance auto for about 80 bucks,
my friend's grampa is gonna be replacing it thursday morning at 25 bucks an hour
hopefully that's the end of it.