Upper Intake Manifold = Impossible
02-26-2008, 02:56 AM
#1
Upper Intake Manifold = Impossible
I'm trying to replace one of the injectors in the rear of the engine. I spent a few hours last night trying to remove the UIM and everything was going smoothly until attempting to remove the two bolts in the rear for the support bracket. I've read up in the Haynes manual as well as the instructions in the how-to section on the cardomain page (I'm replacing the same injector the poster of the how-to did) and I simply can't get to them. Sockets won't fit back there and I knew that going in, but even using a flat wrench, it seems like I can't get it on at an angle which will allow me to break the bolts. No room at the only angle I can get the 12 mm wrench to fit on to put on a breaker bar and with the hammer and long screwdriver trick, I'm worried everytime I try it that I'm going to strip out the head of the bolt (which would really screw me over).
There has *got* to be some kind of trick or easier way to do this. I can't imagine that if I were to take my vehicle in to get services that they would raise the engine just to replace an injector or that a Nissan tech would have to go through this much trouble to remove a couple of bolts.
There has *got* to be some kind of trick or easier way to do this. I can't imagine that if I were to take my vehicle in to get services that they would raise the engine just to replace an injector or that a Nissan tech would have to go through this much trouble to remove a couple of bolts.
02-26-2008, 04:31 AM
#2
I've removed a UIM and rear injectors at the junkyard with just pliers, vice grips, and two screwdrivers 
(not being prepared FTL)
If you remove the IACV, the EGR and left side support bracket bolt become so much easier to access. The way I get to the rear bracket bolts when I actually have tools is generally a 3/8" 12pt 12mm short socket, regular 3/8" ratchet, and a 1" extension. Keep it straight on there with one hand (if it torques it will round off the head) and either get a large wrench or a small pipe over the handle of the ratchet to get some more leverage on it.
That, or a 12mm ratchet wrench angled down towards the manifolds or sideways towards the middle of the engine (for both) has worked in the past as well.
Once you get those bolts out, don't even bother putting them back in. IMO they aren't needed, and they just add more time to the while procedure. Don't forget about the two coolant lines that go into the EGR area on the left rear side of the UIM, as well as the two that go into the TB. I bypassed that whole FIC setup the first time I did the UIM, so now it takes me ~10 min to do it. Did the same (removed the brackets entirely) on my friend's '02, and it literally takes even less time to get his UIM off.
(not being prepared FTL)If you remove the IACV, the EGR and left side support bracket bolt become so much easier to access. The way I get to the rear bracket bolts when I actually have tools is generally a 3/8" 12pt 12mm short socket, regular 3/8" ratchet, and a 1" extension. Keep it straight on there with one hand (if it torques it will round off the head) and either get a large wrench or a small pipe over the handle of the ratchet to get some more leverage on it.
That, or a 12mm ratchet wrench angled down towards the manifolds or sideways towards the middle of the engine (for both) has worked in the past as well.
Once you get those bolts out, don't even bother putting them back in. IMO they aren't needed, and they just add more time to the while procedure. Don't forget about the two coolant lines that go into the EGR area on the left rear side of the UIM, as well as the two that go into the TB. I bypassed that whole FIC setup the first time I did the UIM, so now it takes me ~10 min to do it. Did the same (removed the brackets entirely) on my friend's '02, and it literally takes even less time to get his UIM off.
02-26-2008, 05:35 AM
#3
I managed just now to finally get those two bolts off for the rear support. I used a 12mm socket, found a universal joint socket connector and attached it after I put the 12mm on, then after lining up, used a six inch and a three inch extension to break the bolts by hand and finally got some leverage!
Injector just went in, but the old one was a PITA. It was old and brittle and basically the connector fell apart on me while I while using plyers to move it back and forth. I was finally able to remove it by applying leverage with a flat head screwdriver and continuing to wiggle back and forth with the plyers.
Now the question is if I can get all this put back together before I am supposed to be at work. Cutting it close.
Thanks again pmohr.
Injector just went in, but the old one was a PITA. It was old and brittle and basically the connector fell apart on me while I while using plyers to move it back and forth. I was finally able to remove it by applying leverage with a flat head screwdriver and continuing to wiggle back and forth with the plyers.
Now the question is if I can get all this put back together before I am supposed to be at work. Cutting it close.
Thanks again pmohr.
. You should be able to get everything back on easily.
02-26-2008, 03:31 PM
#5
I managed just now to finally get those two bolts off for the rear support. I used a 12mm socket, found a universal joint socket connector and attached it after I put the 12mm on, then after lining up, used a six inch and a three inch extension to break the bolts by hand and finally got some leverage!
Injector just went in, but the old one was a PITA. It was old and brittle and basically the connector fell apart on me while I while using plyers to move it back and forth. I was finally able to remove it by applying leverage with a flat head screwdriver and continuing to wiggle back and forth with the plyers.
Now the question is if I can get all this put back together before I am supposed to be at work. Cutting it close.
Thanks again pmohr.
Injector just went in, but the old one was a PITA. It was old and brittle and basically the connector fell apart on me while I while using plyers to move it back and forth. I was finally able to remove it by applying leverage with a flat head screwdriver and continuing to wiggle back and forth with the plyers.
Now the question is if I can get all this put back together before I am supposed to be at work. Cutting it close.
Thanks again pmohr.
02-26-2008, 03:42 PM
#6
CDG, if I were to do it again, I think it would probably be a little less than an hour job. I've tackled some bigger projects on my Jeep Wrangler, but there is much more room in the engine bay and I'm not really used to such tight working spaces. Even my old Durango wasn't as tight as this. I have to say though, I'm quite pleased with being able to get this done with the help of those on the board.
Wizard, first of all, *sharp* Maxima and wow to those dyno numbers. I never noticed the cavities, so I didn't try them. Will make a mental note if I ever have to do this again though. Installing back was a snap. Simply coated the o-rings with oil, fitted into the hole and tightened each side with screws a bit at a time until it was firmly seated. Amazingly was only 15 minutes late this morning and wouldn't have been that if I didn't have to scrub so much in the shower, lol.
Wizard, first of all, *sharp* Maxima and wow to those dyno numbers. I never noticed the cavities, so I didn't try them. Will make a mental note if I ever have to do this again though. Installing back was a snap. Simply coated the o-rings with oil, fitted into the hole and tightened each side with screws a bit at a time until it was firmly seated. Amazingly was only 15 minutes late this morning and wouldn't have been that if I didn't have to scrub so much in the shower, lol.
02-26-2008, 03:55 PM
#8
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post