wow nevermind scrap the above post i have the fuel entering the firewall side of the fuel rail and exiting the other end where the FPR is.

 

I'll check my car when I get home but I could have sworn the FPR (4th gen) should be on the rear bank and there should just be a line coming out of the front bank, with the fuel going in at the rear. I'm not sure on that, though, I have bad memory and haven't looked at that in a while

 

alrighttt yeah it should be back together with new gaskets in like an hour if all goes well

 

The FPR is supposed to be at the rear bank, and the front bank connects to the fuel filter hard-line via the 5th gen fuel damper or fuel rail adapter (if that was used instead); fuel should be entering through the front and exiting through the FPR to the fuel tank return line.

 

wow i have no clue as to why this thing is still not working. Its all back together with the new heads/LIM gaskets and still doing the EXACT same thing, same sounds same everything. this is very ghey.

 

Why was there talk earlier in this thread about combining the 4th and 5th gen UIM gaskets together...Why would this ever need to be done? If youre using the 5th gen upper and lower manifold dont you just need the 5th gen gasket? or maybe they were talking about using the 4th gen lower manifold that would make some more sense.

The egr guide tube seems to be in the right place, but i didnt bend it. which way should it be bent?

 

I am using the 4th gen lower, 4th gen gasket and 5th gen gasket. It is the only combination I can use to keep it running.

I am however, getting a new 5th gen gasket to replace my shot one, and I will remove the 4th gen gasket. I believe it will run without leaks then.


On a side note: Use duct tape to wrap around the TB/UIM crack to see if that helps. You can also try putting some around the LIM/UIM crack also. And make sure your IACV gasket/crack is not leaking.

 

ahh the little 0-ring gasket on the IACV is shot. I dont really think this is the source but by god i hope it will be. Where can i get one of these? its not the metal gasket but the rubber circle o-ring gasket thingo.

BTW good call on that one MOHFpro ^

i hope its not just something the dealer will have cause the parts department would have closed an hour ago. and wont be open till friggan monday.

 

wow im a so ****ing close to taking a sledgehammer to this piece of crap. fixed that gasket and still absolutely nothing its pathetic. sometimes when it does manage to start and idle for a like 2 seconds at most, opening the throttle at ALL kills it immediately. followed by an air backfire. **** this

 

damn. if it dies when you give it gas, it sounds like there may be a problem with your fuel. lock0002 had a similar problem when his fuel lines were mixed up. have you put the FPR at the correct location yet?

 

well its at the correct 'location' as in, its where the fuel exits the fuel rail but i havent swapped the inlet and outlet around yet. i asked jime a couple days ago about if the fuel rail is directional and he said no. i will definately try it tho, as i agree with what your saying about giving it throttle and dieing because of lack of fuel. but there is still those gay *** f*ucking vacuum hissing sounds which make me want to kill..something. especially when it farts

 

like i am SO sure the gaskets are all sealing properly as i have taken the damn thing on and off like 4 times now. but the farts sound like they come from that general area, where the vias and sh*t is

 

Sounds fuel related. You wired the injectors? Did they get a good ground?

 

when i had mine mixed up it wouldnt even fire up and idle so i think he is getting gas. are the plugs fouled with fuel? you are using all 5th gen correct? including the 5th gen coils? check to see if there is a spark. or even try throwing in the old 4th gens to at least to count that out. maybe one of them is shot causing it to detonate? just a suggegestion i probley am way off but its worth a shot. But then again the poof sound is very suspicsious of it not ignighting correctly. and i would also check to ssee if all the spark plugs are tighten to tourqe. It really seems like you are getting to much air or something with your ignition

If he had just one injector out it would act like it was missing. when i suspected my injectors were wired wrong i forgot to resolder one of them so i was running of 5 cyl. but two or three of them might be a diffrent story.

Sorry for the spelling i am a horrible speller

 

yeah as soon as i get back to the garage i will clean all the spark plugs with TB cleaner. i will switch around the fuel lines so the fuel is entering on the front bank side and exiting via the FPR on the rear bank (firewall) side. i did check the wiring on the injectors over and over but i will do it again. if this doesnt help at all im gonna try unplugging the MAF and see the if theres a differnce...( i sorta dropped the air box once but dont think it did anything, but who knows). I think the coils are fine because the 1 or 2 times it did rev up it was smooth with no misfire sounds...but i guess i could check that too

 

you sure all your vacuum hoses are connected correctly. Make sure the FPR has a source of vacuum.

 

Quick tip. As long as its striped wire to striped wire and solid wire to solid wire you know you wired the injectors correctly.

 

yeah man check the vacuum setup i am pretty sure its right, but please speak up if you see a problem.

 

Finally! It runs! I replaced all the fuel lines incase of a clog and cleaned all the spark plugs, and put the fuel damper and FPR where everyone usually has them. God the idle is terrible though it jumps erradically between 1.5 to 2.5 with no load on the engine...

 

Niiice. I'm glad you got it running man.

Is the TPS adjusted correctly? I know it sounds crazy but check the tiny bolt near the throttle cables. Make sure it's not that. If it is, just adjust it accordingly.

I circled it in your picture:

 

Check for air leaks in the iavc. i currently had that exact problem cause i forgot to put in the other screw for the sensor causing it to leak air.

glad you figured it all out man!!! Congrats!!!

 

Congrats man. I'm glad you got it running. looks like that was most likely the problem after all!

RE: the idle - look for leaks at the TB and IACV: now that it's actually idling you can spray TB cleaner to pinpoint them. Congrats again.

 

Good to hear you got it running! Sounds like you've got some leaks somewhere.

 

yeah i was pretty pumped when it started....god its nice when something works after you spend what seems like hundreds of hours on it. i'm sure the engine that hadnt stared in a week wasnt to happy about revs i gave it

but tomorrow ill check for leaks with tb cleaner and check the above mentioned 'screw', and adjust the tps etc....make sure the connector to the IACV is getting a good connection and tape it up.

 

Awesome I'm stocked you got it running Steve. I was waiting on a call at which point I was going to have you check a few thiongs and then drive out there. If you can't get the idle back down it could be an internal; vacuum leak from the 5th gen iacv having issues, but I would suspect if anything the egr tube first. Regardless just use a stethescope with just the hose to pinpoint any leaks, as well as making sure you don't have any non vacuum leaks that would allow unmetered air to enter. If worse comes to worse and you still have issues and are positive it's not a vacuum leak I can come out there with a 4th gen iacv & adaptor plate, Also, doubly check the plug,. make sure the rubber grommet is pulled out of it and that it plugs in good, someone mentioned plugging it 180* out, I would like them to talk about that, who else has used the 5g iacv, did you have to do ths?

 

thats also a good idea i will try turning the plug back around to normal (not 180*), that is, after i get down to business with finding any vac leaks.

Has anyone ever used Emanage Ultimate as an RPM/window switch for the VIAS?
I'm gonna wire the EU in tomorrow or the next day and with all the features it has im sure i could find something to give a 12v source or ground at a certain RPM

 

I have an idea...wouldnt it be possible to pinpoint a leak by disconnecting the brake booster from the firewall end, covering up the TB with tape to seal that, and then blow in the BB hose? Listen for the noise and,... voila?

 

This is going to be my route
I cant wait to hook up the eu. I am making a plug n play harness thou so i dont have to be laying down on my passernger side for a hour soldering it all up. There is a good explination in dandymax write up to wire up the vias.(which i am sure you have read already ) Page 18 on the write up to be exact.

7000 rev limit+advance timing + 5000rpm activation of vias+tune=

 

yeah i must of had a brain fart i knew the EU could control the VIAS i meant to ask if if could used as an rpm/window switch for a nitrous application...

only 7000 rev limit? with an 00vi wouldnt if be beneficial if we went a bit higher maybe 7.3 7.5

As for my idle problem, it is better now that i adjusted the TPS, and i flipped the connector back around to normal. It is still a rough idle though, almost sounds like its cammed but yeah its not perfect the idle RPM is very low about 500-600. I am still playing around with the little screw which adjusts how the butterfly/throttle plate sits.

 

oh ok so you want to use your window for the vias control?? Or do you mean that you can use the EU as a rpm window switch? Either which way i think it is possible

7000 is going to be my starting point.Once i get everything all set(af timing ect) i will probley bump it up to 7.2k i dont think i will go past 7.3k

 

Not necessarily. Without cams, I'm not sure power is made past 7000. Also, I'm not entirely positive the valvetrain can take regular abuse past 7000. There have been people in the past with 7200 RPM limits on JWT ECU's, but nothing has been proven.
I'm not familiar with how to adjust the idle on the 5th gen IACV, but I would take a look into how to do that and raise it slightly and see if that smoothes it out a little. Ideally your idle (warm, not cold) should be ~650 RPMs. If it is idling 500 to 600 cold, though, you'll want to adjust it closer to 900 cold or even a little more (my car idles at 1100 cold and 600 to 650 warm).

 

IIRC there was a screw lookin thing thing on the 5th gen IACV that might adjust it, but i would have to take off the TB to see because its on the very bottom.

Is that how its done on the 4th gen iacv? with a screw?

although i remember reading something weird a while ago about adjusting teh 5th gen iacv where you have to turn the key on and off and on and off for a certain amount of time... idk i have to look into it hah

 

Yes i belive that is how it is done on the 4th gen iavc. With the 5th gen i dont know. I know it says both in the fsm and the .org that you have to do it though the consult.someone pleas correct me if i am mistaken

 

That was me...when I dropped my motor (DE-K) I had to cut off the plastic surrounding on the IACV plug and plug it in backwards. It is the only way it will go in. It's not easy to tell which way is the top or bottom, but I'm sure that I had to turn it around in order for it to plug in.

 

^ weird, because my idle was craphouse when turned 180*, but a lot better when normal.