96mAx2fast

iTrader: (2)

I'm having trouble starting my 96 5spd SE. When I turn the ignition, it cranks hard but nothing happens. I noticed that when the ignition is turned to ON, I cannot lower my windows, nor do I hear the fuel pump winding under the car. I recently replaced my ignition switch with a new OEM switch, as I thought this could be the problem. Anyone ever encounter the same issue?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Checked all fuses? Any other electrical work done between working and now?

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

The very left 'blue' relay in the driverside dash fusebox(should be 3) is the ignition relay. Touch the outside of it as you turn the ignition to 'start'. Can you feel it switching?

Were there any other problems leading up to this?

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

sounds like the ignition relay is not turning on. If that is the case windows, sunroof, turn signals, defroster, heated seat and a host of other things will not work. The ignition switch causes this relay to turn on. I agree check it out. Make sure it's not damaged somehow.

96mAx2fast

iTrader: (2)

I'm going to check the fuses and relay tonight... is there any coralation between the ignition and window switches...

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

The signal from the ignition switch that turns on the ignition relay also provides power to the injectors and fuel pump. Makes sense why you replaced the ignition switch. Also if the theft warning relay is not functioning properly it could cause this problem. Check theft relay under hood near steering fluid resorvior. Swap it with another of the same color. Theft relay should activate when key is turned. Is it an auto or manual trans?

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

If the ignition relay is not energized it's like you do not have the key in and turned on. It's like all the functions that require a key won't work. Starter will turn though.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I really think its a theft relay problem and not ignition relay. If the theft relay does activate the ignition relay cannot.

If the problem is constant check fuses # 17 (10Amp) and #33 (7.5A). Take the fuses out and look at them, make sure you are checking the correct fuse #'s. That should keep yopu busy :-)

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Does the problem happen all the time or just sometimes?

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

Simple check would be to jump the connection. Pull off the theft relay(black 5 terminal) and jump power from '3' terminal to, I believe, '5' terminal on relay connection in fuse box. (Schematic on top of relay) Then try to start. Same principle will work for ignition relay. Just remember it's a blue 4 terminal relay.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

After checking further the theft warning relay should not activate when you try to start the car. Again I would focus my efforts on the theft warning relay.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Good idea on the jumping but I would say you need to pull the relay and jump terminal #3 to #4.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

The theft warning relay is under the hood by on the passenger side. Confused yet?

96mAx2fast

iTrader: (2)

It was happening when I least expected it to, mayb e once a week. I swapped the relay (from 1 of the 3 parts cars that I have) to the far left of the fuse box and wiggled my alarm wires under ( I have a remote start) and then the car turned on...Another successful maxima.org story. I wonder if it has anything to do with the alarm?! Lets see if this occurs again... THANKS to everyone that helped out, I really appreciate it. I can go to work tomorrow...

nelledge

iTrader: (6)

Congratulations! Lucky.

Hammy

one thing I noticed in this thread.
Only one Person with an Avy

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

2 now.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I don't believe you mentioned the remote start. My bet would be that the remote start wiring is causing your problems.

Maxima electrical systems and most automotive electrical systems are pretty reliable ...... until someone starts working on them.

Glad to hear you are up and running for now if you continue having problems I would consider returning wiring back to stock just to see if remote start wiring is causing the problem.

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

I thought I knew your answer until you said your windows won't roll down in 'ON'. That confuses me. ?

But, for what it's worth, regarding the cranking/no start, search for Crazy97's thread regarding grounding the starter. It's a cheap, easy place to start, even if it isn't the problem.

Good luck.

Thakidmeen

Dude I just started having the same problem My car won't start, you can hear the starter catching but it won't turn over. My windows, Power locks, and power seats won't work either, The lights will flash when I arm the alarm but the locks wont lock. I don't know what it is? can someone offer some advice????? I have an auto 97 Maxima.

Thakidmeen

We've also disconnected tha battery, checked the fuses and all that I don't know if we've checked the relay. All I know is I think it might be my starter cause a few days before it wouldn't start I would start the car and it kinda drug like it sounded like it was gonna die, but it would start. now it won't start at all, the Battery is a brand new Duralast gold and everything pertaining to the battery seems fine. My lights are bright,speakers and cd player works and all. I also think it could be my anti theft system but I don't know how to reset it I tried unlocking the door with my key and all. So now I can't even roll my windows back up so I have to keep the car cover on tha car Could somebody help?

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

To the OP:
Mentioning having a remote starter when you are having starting issues is vital.
Sounds like you have a wiring issue due to the remote starter, I will not be at all surprised if you have this issue again soon. I'd be hounding the installer if I were you.

96mAx2fast

iTrader: (2)

The problem I am having is with a relay for the remote starter. I'm pretty good working with alarms and it seems that a wire or something may be loose on the relay connection. I have to take it apart and tape everything up tightly. Because I have such tight suspension, the car bounces on bad roadways, which causes things to jump more than normal. To the guy having the same problem I had, the ignition switch may be bad. I have a few lying around so let me know if you've checked everything else out. If the car is cranking hard, the starter is working so rule that out....

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Do you have a remote start or aftermarket alarm system? Is the electrical system related to the ingnition/start circuit stock. Have you worked on the electrical system recently?

Thakidmeen

Thx 4 the responses everybody, I got Good news and bad news, Good news: I took my starter to get checked and it was bad, so I bought a new one and the car crank right up. The bad news: My power windows,locks,seats and Alarm still doesn't work. Also when I open my door the lights inside my car doesn't come on(The one's on the door and the dome light.) My friend thats a mechanic and his friend think it's some kinda ground or hot wire that fried, or some kind of relay because all of my fuses were good and all the other lights inside my car comes on, the alternator checked out good also. when I took the car for a spin it cut off on me 2 or 3 times and when I accelerate and my Rpm's get to like 3 1/2 the car makes a clicking noise and starts to jerk like it's gonna cut off, so IDK. All this happened the day after my car wouldn't start, I had no problems before then. So my friend has a shop and I also know a guy that works on nothin but Nissan,Honda,Mitsubishi stuff like that so I'ma have to see whats goin on and what I can do to get this resolved, hopefully this is nothing too serious.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

I know you checked fuses but it certainly appears that you fusible link (30 Amp) labled "f" may be blown. This is located under the hood by the battery. Fusible link "f" controls all the functions you mentioned. I think you need to take a closer look.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

If your power seats do not work I am almost certain that this fusible link (f) is blown because the seat circuit is very simple and there is not much else that could fail. Take the fusible link out and test it with a meter even if it looks good. Consider swapping with another 30a fusible link if there is another one in that fuse box.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

Where does the clicking noise you refer to come from? Under the dash on your left hand side?

Thakidmeen

Good news: I got it resolved (ALL GLORY 2 GOD!!!) the clicking noise and my car jerking and stalling out came from something we 4got to connect back to the filter after we took it out to change the starter. And the reason my alarm, power seats,locks and windows wasn't workin was because the fuse-able link under the fuse box the wire went out but now it's good and all the stuff is workin. Thank God for using my homie Tao to help out! If anybody is in St.pete Florida and needs the number to the shop hit me up. (They specialize in all Japanese cars)

rotary magic

I have a similar problem. Car will not start. Started does not turn a bit. Battery is OK. Fuses look OK. Relays clicking. Ignition switch seems OK too. Will not start in N or P. I don't hear any fuel pump action, but cannot remeber ever hearing any fuel pump action.

Could it be the starter I replaced a few months ago? I plan to by pass the solenoid tomorrow in the day light. Any other ideas?

rotary magic

Fixed. The problem was the bum that soldered the ignition wire to the starter did a bad job. It simply fell off!!!Had to take to O'Reillys for a replacement. Too bad they don't pay you for the 2 hours wasted looking and fixing the problem.