Manual steering rack
03-16-2008, 06:37 PM
#1
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Manual steering rack
Well since my second steering rack and pump are not working right, I'm ready to make life simple. I also don't feel like spending a whole day changing the rack.
Anyone ever looped the lines on the rack? What kind of fittings did you use?
How does it feel on the highway, around town, parking?
Dave
Anyone ever looped the lines on the rack? What kind of fittings did you use?
How does it feel on the highway, around town, parking?
Dave
03-16-2008, 06:47 PM
#2
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Not sure how a maxima would feel but...
A Tahoe takes 2 people to park.
Miata and CRX feel great. Once you're moving you cant really tell the difference, its really easy to turn the wheel. Parking is a bit more problematic but since the wheel turns just fine when youre moving, just make sure youre creeping when turning it
A Tahoe takes 2 people to park.
Miata and CRX feel great. Once you're moving you cant really tell the difference, its really easy to turn the wheel. Parking is a bit more problematic but since the wheel turns just fine when youre moving, just make sure youre creeping when turning it
03-16-2008, 10:36 PM
#3
Theres a big difference in a manual rack and a power rack. You will never get a power rack to feel like a manual rack unless you change the gear ratio. It would take some research to find some gears that would work in our rack or find a manual rack we could make work.
Finding a manual rack has been on my to do list for a long time.
Without ps the power rack will be difficult to steer. I don't know any maxima owner that has removed it and regretted it myself included.
There was a how to for a honda somewhere on the org where they used a reservoir instead of looping the lines. Supposedly it made steering slightly easier.
Finding a manual rack has been on my to do list for a long time.
Without ps the power rack will be difficult to steer. I don't know any maxima owner that has removed it and regretted it myself included.
There was a how to for a honda somewhere on the org where they used a reservoir instead of looping the lines. Supposedly it made steering slightly easier.
03-16-2008, 11:34 PM
#4
I always have to pop a u-turn on my way to work so that I can get to a parking lot. The street space is limited, but i can always get the u-turn with my tahoe (without driving onto the curb of course) and my Maxima requires a 3-point turn. Kinda of sad if you ask me.
03-16-2008, 11:39 PM
#5
You are sadly mistaken my friend. As the owner of both a Tahoe and a Maxima, I can personally attest to you that my '03 Tahoe has a tighter turning radius than my maxima.
I always have to pop a u-turn on my way to work so that I can get to a parking lot. The street space is limited, but i can always get the u-turn with my tahoe (without driving onto the curb of course) and my Maxima requires a 3-point turn. Kinda of sad if you ask me.
I always have to pop a u-turn on my way to work so that I can get to a parking lot. The street space is limited, but i can always get the u-turn with my tahoe (without driving onto the curb of course) and my Maxima requires a 3-point turn. Kinda of sad if you ask me.
03-17-2008, 06:01 AM
#6
03-17-2008, 06:09 AM
#7
You are sadly mistaken my friend. As the owner of both a Tahoe and a Maxima, I can personally attest to you that my '03 Tahoe has a tighter turning radius than my maxima.
I always have to pop a u-turn on my way to work so that I can get to a parking lot. The street space is limited, but i can always get the u-turn with my tahoe (without driving onto the curb of course) and my Maxima requires a 3-point turn. Kinda of sad if you ask me.
I always have to pop a u-turn on my way to work so that I can get to a parking lot. The street space is limited, but i can always get the u-turn with my tahoe (without driving onto the curb of course) and my Maxima requires a 3-point turn. Kinda of sad if you ask me.
03-17-2008, 07:10 AM
#8
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We are talking about manual steering racks vs power steering and my comment was that a tahoe without power steering takes 2 people to park.
Also, the turning radius has NOTHING to do with the number of people needed to turn the wheel.
You have sadly failed my friend.
03-17-2008, 07:14 AM
#9
Rear wheel drive usually has a tighter turn radius anyway ..... the CV's really limit how tight a turn you can apply any power too, so they actually limit the turn. (IMHO <---)
Dave .... you could always try it, and if you don't like it, put it back to power. ?? To really make those tight **** turns, just hit the E-brake at like 15 mph or so and 1st gear! LOL
Dave .... you could always try it, and if you don't like it, put it back to power. ?? To really make those tight **** turns, just hit the E-brake at like 15 mph or so and 1st gear! LOL
03-17-2008, 01:05 PM
#10
Rear wheel drive usually has a tighter turn radius anyway ..... the CV's really limit how tight a turn you can apply any power too, so they actually limit the turn. (IMHO <---)
Dave .... you could always try it, and if you don't like it, put it back to power. ?? To really make those tight **** turns, just hit the E-brake at like 15 mph or so and 1st gear! LOL
Dave .... you could always try it, and if you don't like it, put it back to power. ?? To really make those tight **** turns, just hit the E-brake at like 15 mph or so and 1st gear! LOL
and if the person who started the thread wants to know how it feels... go to a hill and then turn your car off keep key in ACC. and then turn wheels feel how it feels. then slowly roll your car in neutral turn see how i feels.. then roll a bit faster see how it feels... also notice your brakes lose pressure as you pump it... and you should keep hand on ebrake..... be safe and do it somewhere without other cars
03-18-2008, 03:07 AM
#12
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Ok, these explanations of how to turn off power and coast down a hill are cute and funny. Actually they're not - I'm no moron.
Obviously running with the pump and belt still attached isn't representative of looping it back at the rack. But I suppose the real issue is what gearing ratio the steering has and therefore how much mechanical advantage you'll have.
Right now I have the opposite problem - a leaking rack that is overboosted. The wheel turns effortlessly on the highway. I'm not too excited about replacing these parts again.
Obviously running with the pump and belt still attached isn't representative of looping it back at the rack. But I suppose the real issue is what gearing ratio the steering has and therefore how much mechanical advantage you'll have.
Right now I have the opposite problem - a leaking rack that is overboosted. The wheel turns effortlessly on the highway. I'm not too excited about replacing these parts again.
03-18-2008, 05:51 AM
#13
Ok, these explanations of how to turn off power and coast down a hill are cute and funny. Actually they're not - I'm no moron.
Obviously running with the pump and belt still attached isn't representative of looping it back at the rack. But I suppose the real issue is what gearing ratio the steering has and therefore how much mechanical advantage you'll have.
Right now I have the opposite problem - a leaking rack that is overboosted. The wheel turns effortlessly on the highway. I'm not too excited about replacing these parts again.
Obviously running with the pump and belt still attached isn't representative of looping it back at the rack. But I suppose the real issue is what gearing ratio the steering has and therefore how much mechanical advantage you'll have.
Right now I have the opposite problem - a leaking rack that is overboosted. The wheel turns effortlessly on the highway. I'm not too excited about replacing these parts again.
03-18-2008, 11:02 AM
#15
Ok, these explanations of how to turn off power and coast down a hill are cute and funny. Actually they're not - I'm no moron.
Obviously running with the pump and belt still attached isn't representative of looping it back at the rack. But I suppose the real issue is what gearing ratio the steering has and therefore how much mechanical advantage you'll have.
Right now I have the opposite problem - a leaking rack that is overboosted. The wheel turns effortlessly on the highway. I'm not too excited about replacing these parts again.
Obviously running with the pump and belt still attached isn't representative of looping it back at the rack. But I suppose the real issue is what gearing ratio the steering has and therefore how much mechanical advantage you'll have.
Right now I have the opposite problem - a leaking rack that is overboosted. The wheel turns effortlessly on the highway. I'm not too excited about replacing these parts again.
Dave .... have you considered the possibility of using a different rack, I mean from another car (not Maxima) at all? Would it be very hard to loop it and if you don't like it, undo it?
edit: Ya know, like from a Skyline or 911 ???? lol
03-18-2008, 12:21 PM
#16
Well at least the max is FWD. So if you're ever having a tough time turning the wheel when stopped you can yank up the ebrake and light 'em up for mad tyte JDM steering resistance alleviation. 
I was going to suggest sizing up a manual Altima rack, but I don't think he wants to replace the rack again.
I was going to suggest sizing up a manual Altima rack, but I don't think he wants to replace the rack again.
03-18-2008, 02:58 PM
#17
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If an Altima manual rack is reasonable to drive, not too expensive, and it puts this whole power steering issue to bed, I'll do it.
But unless I can be well assured that whatever I do makes life better and more reliable I'll have better things to do. So what I've learned is that looping a Maxima rack does me little good.
Buying a good used or rebuilt Maxima rack is several hundred dollars, plus another $75 for a power steering pump, and effort spend reclamping the leaky lines.
Installing a manual rack is easier, for sure. It should improve road feel, and of course it's bulletproof.
Dave
But unless I can be well assured that whatever I do makes life better and more reliable I'll have better things to do. So what I've learned is that looping a Maxima rack does me little good.
Buying a good used or rebuilt Maxima rack is several hundred dollars, plus another $75 for a power steering pump, and effort spend reclamping the leaky lines.
Installing a manual rack is easier, for sure. It should improve road feel, and of course it's bulletproof.
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 03-18-2008 at 03:00 PM.
03-18-2008, 05:22 PM
#18
why not visit the issue of why 2 racks youve had leaked out., I can say if installed properly you wont have the kind of problems your having, on a daily driver FWD car you want power steering period, RWD ok but nota 3000LB+ FWD sedan. not trying to sound like an ******* but maybe you should make sure your power steering rack is propely installed and all fittings are secure, a little thread lock at the bottom and teflon tape on the rest of the thread will gurantee you 100,000 miles of worry-free powersteering rack issues...
03-18-2008, 05:41 PM
#19
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Good question.
The original rack started acting overboosted around 100k. It was leaking at the boots by 140k. Replaced it. Also replaced the PSP when I was changing the rack. Now this one is leaking too - which I now believe is due to not cleaning out the lines during the first change-out. The metal flakes probably tore into those components with ease. (I'm not sure what I was thinking, but anyway). But even when they were freshly installed the steering feel was sorta crappy.
I've been around the block on alignment settings, bushings, control arms, etc as well. The steering rack was really the root cause.
Dave
The original rack started acting overboosted around 100k. It was leaking at the boots by 140k. Replaced it. Also replaced the PSP when I was changing the rack. Now this one is leaking too - which I now believe is due to not cleaning out the lines during the first change-out. The metal flakes probably tore into those components with ease. (I'm not sure what I was thinking, but anyway). But even when they were freshly installed the steering feel was sorta crappy.
I've been around the block on alignment settings, bushings, control arms, etc as well. The steering rack was really the root cause.
Dave
03-18-2008, 09:29 PM
#20
Dave ... this may sound silly, but may be worth mentioning. Could it possibly be the Rotory Valve? I wonder if you have a bad torsion bar? Not sure what it would take to replace that, but it may be worth looking into.
Jim
Jim
03-18-2008, 11:07 PM
#21
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hey dgeesaman did u do the rack bearing adjustment when you put the new assembly on?
you should have bled your system after you have done the install air in your steering fluid restricts free movement.
also i m not sure if you took the assembly apart but when you put it back together the rack has teeth on it. most of the time you dont really realize and just slide the rack in place. this damages the inner rack seal and you get a internal leak.
last but not least belt tension(VERY IMPORTANT)
did you do any kind of tests on your system or your just getting sick of it and wanna get something solid and dont really care about the handling characteristics. but if you ask me i will go with power over manual anyday. in my opinion if you got a new pump and rack, and everything was torqued and adjusted to the manufacturers spec, and all the necessary precautions were taken. your steering should feel like what it felt like when it was brand new. another big thing that would affect your handling and steering would be your alignment.
you should have bled your system after you have done the install air in your steering fluid restricts free movement.
also i m not sure if you took the assembly apart but when you put it back together the rack has teeth on it. most of the time you dont really realize and just slide the rack in place. this damages the inner rack seal and you get a internal leak.
last but not least belt tension(VERY IMPORTANT)
did you do any kind of tests on your system or your just getting sick of it and wanna get something solid and dont really care about the handling characteristics. but if you ask me i will go with power over manual anyday. in my opinion if you got a new pump and rack, and everything was torqued and adjusted to the manufacturers spec, and all the necessary precautions were taken. your steering should feel like what it felt like when it was brand new. another big thing that would affect your handling and steering would be your alignment.
03-19-2008, 03:18 AM
#22
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I did not adjust the rack tension. I bought a low-miles used rack assembly, and knowing how an incorrect rack tension setting will wear it out quickly, I chose to leave it alone.
I bled the system per procedure. Belt tension is good.
Alignment was done by the best shop in the area, the guy sets specs to within .1° of what you ask for.
Like I mentioned earlier, I believe I made the mistake of not cleaning out the PS hoses completely. There was metal flakes in the fluid. I remember catching what drained out but I definitely didn't flush out each line.
Dave
I bled the system per procedure. Belt tension is good.
Alignment was done by the best shop in the area, the guy sets specs to within .1° of what you ask for.
Like I mentioned earlier, I believe I made the mistake of not cleaning out the PS hoses completely. There was metal flakes in the fluid. I remember catching what drained out but I definitely didn't flush out each line.
Dave
05-07-2009, 07:08 PM
#23
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Well another year has rolled by and I'm ready to make this problem go away.
I'm interested in a manual rack. Is there an aftermarket rack out there? Which Altima rack is interchangeable?
Dave
I'm interested in a manual rack. Is there an aftermarket rack out there? Which Altima rack is interchangeable?
Dave
05-08-2009, 06:47 AM
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