95_Maxima_5spd

Alright guys it has been a while since ive been on here....well im back and have a problem. I had the clutch and alternator replaced on my 95 back in November. Got the car back and ran great for a week until one morning, on my way to work, it messed up. I was at a red light and as i started to accelerate, my car got to 2,000 rpm's and fell flat on it's face. The best way i can explain what it was doing is like it was hitting a rev limiter....will not go above 2,000 rpm whether driving or idling. The car sat for a couple of months because i couldnt afford to put it back in the shop. I finally got the money to get it fixed, took it to my mechanic and would not start....it cranks good, but just wouldnt start. While trying to start it, it started backfiring through the intake and exhaust. The mechanic said he would check it out....he thought the timing had jumped, so he checked it and found it was fine. He did put a timing chain tensioner on it cause he said there was a lot of slack in the chain...the tensioner fixed that issue. So now he has the car back together and still will not start. I checked the stickies and read that the MAFS could cause problem of not going abover 2k rpm. I called my mechanic and suggested this, he check it and said it was working as it should. He has pulled the codes from the ECU and gotten a crankshaft position and camshaft position sensor, replaced both and still the problem persists.

So i turn to the org...if anybody knows what the heck could be the problem, please help. sorry for the looong post

bigpulve+

iTrader: (11)

Gas in the car could be bad, MAF is what is sounds like, fuel pump or fuel filter could be bad, check the coils and plugs, TPS also...

nissmax

I was just going to make a post very similar to the original, as my maxima is having the exact same symptoms. The car is running extremely rich, and will only run for about 30 seconds until the spark plugs become too flooded with gas to run.

So far the mechanic has replaced the ground wire which fixed the crank/stop crank/stop issue that's present with other maxes. To address the nonstart/minimal run time issue, so far the fuel pump and cps have been replaced. When my car was running prior to this, it would rev to only around 2k as stated for a bad maf sensor. However, my mechanic claims he had another maf sensor on it that he knew has good and the issue still persists.

The reason I believe our cars won't start and backfire through the intake and exhaust is due to running extremely rich. I would think the answer would be in the maf and or possibly the o2 sensors, but still no luck.

Let me know how yours turns out, and I'll do the same. My mechanic is coming in later this evening to try and figure it out, hopefully I can update this thread with good news tomorrow.

For reference I have a 98 SE cat/ypipe - intake as power adders

gasper

My maxima has the same ploblem

Abimax95

iTrader: (1)

Hi guys check the fuel pressure and the injectors , I had the same problem and it turn out to be 2 coils but the funny thing is that I did not get codes for the coils , go to a junk yard or ebay pick up the whole set and try them one at a time most of the time you can't tell by the plug so don't get fool if the plug looks good ..
good luck !

AllMaxxedOut

iTrader: (15)

Were both crankshaft sensors changed (POS & REF)?

Also, try changing coil packs and make sure the injectors are grounded.

fat_kid

iTrader: (13)

knock sensor?

Abimax95

iTrader: (1)

my knock sensor has been bad for about 1 and half years and my car start normal and knock sensor are not cheap to replace if it is not the problem ..

nissmax

Knock sensor was replaced about 6 months ago, made a noticeable difference in power so I know it's working. I'll suggest the injectors/fuel pressure/and coil packs to my mechanic today. I believe only the front cps has been changed, I was unaware they're were two. If these don't do it I may have to call it quits on my maxima. This is the fourth shop it's been to in the last month and none so far have been able to figure it out.

mowgli29

iTrader: (21)

sounds like what happens if I unplug my MAF.

nissmax

Is there a procedure for resetting/reflashing the ecu after the maf has been changed? I.E. does it take a certain # of key turns/starts for the computer to recognize it no longer has a faulty maf. I'm starting to think that maybe it is the maf and the mechanics just didn't do the procedure correctly?

mowgli29

iTrader: (21)

As far as I know there are two ways, maybe more. The Nissan Consult II (most dealerships have them) has a function that will reset the ecu. The easy way to do it at home is to disconnect the battery for a while. Not sure how long it has to be. A couple hours would do it, although I just leave it overnight.

Abimax95

iTrader: (1)

as far as I know when you disconect most sensors or anything that has to do with the main mechanics of the engine it will give you a code if it did just erase it and or if it is a 96 and up and you can take it to an autozone tell them to read the codes .is free .. or you can do it your self is very easy or simply disconnect the battery for more than a day that might work for some codes but not all ... just don'y give up on your car cuz chances are that some one will buy it cheat and it might be an easy fix and it could be something as easy as a loose wire or plug ..

mowgli29

iTrader: (21)

disconnecting the battery overnight will get rid of ALL codes. If the problem has not been fixed, however, those codes and a CEL will likely return after a couple key cycles.

95_Maxima_5spd

Been a while since ive had a chance to get back on here. Both CPS have been changed on my Max and it did nothing. The mechanic still hasnt figured out or fixed the problem. I will suggest all of what you guys have said could be it. I told him im not gonna allow him to just throw parts at it, "thinking" it could be the problem, and it end up not fixing it. Im still waiting to hear something about it hopefully Monday but who knows. Im considering just pulling it out of the shop and tracking down the problem myself because personally, i think it's rediculous he has had my car for a month and still hasnt fixed it.

thanks guys

matts95max

iTrader: (11)

swap in a known to be good working maf, then if thats not it rule it out

chrisZ

Perhaps its a bad ground issue. Do a search on this forum for hard starting, and look at a very long post regarding hard starting especially on cars that had any tranny work. Adding some extra ground straps to the starter and tranny and also cleaning the original ground connections may help you.

Good luck.

nissmax

my mechanic called today, says that the fuel pump I replaced recently has already gone bad, and I only had fuel pressure of 6-15 lbs....it's supposed to be 35 at least I believe. Getting a used fuel pump this afternoon and swapping it in.

Mechanic says that the reason the car ran extremely rich was compensation for a lack of fuel pressure i.e. a lean condition, therefore the ecu was dumping in far too much fuel to attempt to correct this issue.

I'll find out late this afternoon or tomorrow if this has fixed the issue. Your problem may be similar to mine as well, I'm just hoping for the best at this point.

txe5502

Hey! Try checking the strainer on the fuel pump intake! I had a surging problem one time (jerking and little or no power) and it was simply caused by the fuel pump intake strainer being clogged with garbage! I cleaned it and got rid of the dirty gas and that fix'd it!

95_Maxima_5spd

Still no luck...im starting to give up hope. After all that has been done to it, it still will not start and backfires through the intake and exhaust.
it has had new crank and camshaft position sensors, timing chain tensioner, KS, throttle position sensor, tryed a different ECM, cleaned MAF sensor, checked voltage to every sensor that could be found and inspected wiring, checked compression, and the MAF has proper voltage, etc. plugs have been checked, injectors switched around, unplugged, coil packs all been tested, etc. all this time and money has been dumped into it and nothing has helped at all.

any more suggestions?

mowgli29

iTrader: (21)

I know the MAF checks out ok....but have you actually tried replacing it with a known good one? I don't mean buy a new one, just try one that you KNOW works properly. (i.e. from another Max that has no issues, or buy one pretty cheap in the classifieds)

good luck, and keep us posted!

Abimax95

iTrader: (1)

Hi there you do know that there are three sensors one between the tranny and engine one under the pulley and the cam sensor ..try to get used coils and replace them I had the same problem and it turn out to be two coils but I was not getting codes for bad coils it can also be the crank sensor ubder the pulley , checking the coils might not give you an accurate reading . like I said my would not start and I replace all the coils and wala it start it .. buy used one on ebay or a junck yard..

good luck and don't give up just go thru everything it might be an easy fix or something you are over looking

hot_wax_tree

ok lets remember the basics what is needed to make an engine run......

1.Spark: you said this is all good. meaning you took out each individual coil with the spark plug connected you put the end of it on the engine and had some one turn over the engine and watched it spark....
2.Fuel: if you dont know for sure it is getting fuel go ahead and smell the exhaust that is coming out of the car when you crank it over.
3.Air:if your engine does not get enough air it will never start. since you are not driving it any where take the air box off and make sure there is not any major dirt or anything around and try cranking it that way.

Suggestions(if all above is working) take out all the spark plugs drop in just a couple little drops of high octane gas and then quickly put the sparks and every thing back together so the gas doesnt evaporate to much. then try to start the engine some times thats what you have to do with engines I had to to get my 81 suzuki GS550 running. once you start it then you can fix all the other crap like better grounding wire. and stupid stuff like that.

These are the only things needed to run an engine no matter what plus a few minor details...... all the electronics make it run smooth they dont make it run. make sure you actually check every thing I said dont short any of the things I said cause it made be the running factor you skip over.

mowgli29

iTrader: (21)

Yeah, if it's carbureted.

Our cars are way more complex than older cars with carbureted engines, or atvs or motorcycles. They're fuel injected, have an ECU, and they require input from various sensors, not to run better, but to run period. I know, very dumb terms...but you get my meaning, right?

Really? Try starting your car without the crank position sensor plugged in...

hot_wax_tree

hahaha yeah should have thought about that I am kinda fried tonight. and thinking of how I want my bike.
OK!!!!............

mowgli29

iTrader: (21)

Haha, sorry if I sounded like an @$$. I figured you knew what you were talking about, I'm just clarifying!

95_Maxima_5spd

I have to work the next 3 days (12 hour shifts SUCK!) but this weekend the weather will be nice so im gonna go over everything mentioned. Im frustrated as hell with it but hopefully ill get it figured out. I got a y-pipe for it and havent even got to drive it yet with it . Ill post up my findings/results this weekend.

thanks guys

hot_wax_tree

no were all cool I just have a ton of tests this week so my brain is totally fried right now.

95_Maxima_5spd

I heard that if you have the battery out of the car for a certain amount of time it can cause the security system to prevent the car from starting? I don;t know if that is possible....anybody know? the reason i ask is because i had the battery out for 3 or 4 days before it went in the shop.

mowgli29

iTrader: (21)

never heard of that. the only result of that should be resetting the ECU.