Alternator Replacement
#41
I changed my alternator last weekend, I did not have to remove the radiator at all. There are 4 bolts on the A/C compressor, 3 on the Alternator and be sure to loosen up the nut on the tensioner pulley before you try to loosen the the tensioner. I then just pushed the compressor out of my way so the alternator could come out. It wasn't that bad at all, it took a couple of hours and thats because I had a six pack while i was working on it .
Getting the Alternator out
Many Hitachi 12V alternators will work. I used one for a Murano. The major differences are mounting hole angle and side or back wiring connectors.
#43
this guy has video how to remove ac compressor, and take off belt too, when you done that u have access to alternator which is 2 bolts only good luck! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKulY...eature=related
#44
Just finished mine in 2 hours taking check football scores and beer breaks all along the way. Probably take less than an hour now that I know how to do it.
Just jacked her up, cut the wheel to the right, dropped the Compressor (4 14 mm bolts) and then it was pretty easy.
quick tip, go to DBelectrical on EBAY the replacement alt was $91.00.
Mine was probably fine but the previous owner I think tightened the idler belt with too much tension and it smoked the alt bearing.
2 shops quotes like $265 for the alt plus 2 hrs labor at $85/hr. I'm all done for $110.00 with a new OEM belt.
Air tools and a nice Sat and it wasnt too bad at all.
Thanks for this forum guys, lots of good real world info for us Do it yourselfers.
Just jacked her up, cut the wheel to the right, dropped the Compressor (4 14 mm bolts) and then it was pretty easy.
quick tip, go to DBelectrical on EBAY the replacement alt was $91.00.
Mine was probably fine but the previous owner I think tightened the idler belt with too much tension and it smoked the alt bearing.
2 shops quotes like $265 for the alt plus 2 hrs labor at $85/hr. I'm all done for $110.00 with a new OEM belt.
Air tools and a nice Sat and it wasnt too bad at all.
Thanks for this forum guys, lots of good real world info for us Do it yourselfers.
#45
HEy guys I just replaced my alternator, tightened all the bolts on everything and now my idler pulley wont slide up and down anymore. it did it before so i could take off the belt but now trying to put the belt back on it wont move. does it have anything to do with the nut on that side of the alternator bolt or something? helop me please!
#46
HEy guys I just replaced my alternator, tightened all the bolts on everything and now my idler pulley wont slide up and down anymore. it did it before so i could take off the belt but now trying to put the belt back on it wont move. does it have anything to do with the nut on that side of the alternator bolt or something? helop me please!
#47
HEy guys I just replaced my alternator, tightened all the bolts on everything and now my idler pulley wont slide up and down anymore. it did it before so i could take off the belt but now trying to put the belt back on it wont move. does it have anything to do with the nut on that side of the alternator bolt or something? helop me please!
#49
Second, if you loosened the nut on the front of the tensioner pulley too much (it would have to be close to fully off), the stud that the pulley slides on will twist and not lock in to the tensioner bracket properly, also keeping it from working.
#50
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-assembly.html
It contains a link to a diagram showing how it's assembled.
Last edited by jholley; 11-09-2010 at 05:03 PM.
#52
#54
question... would replacing my 110amp alternator with the 125amp be benefical in terms of lasting longer and less stress on the electronics?
i plan on installing an audio system and subs by the end of the year and i KNOW i will be better off with the 125amp when the system is installed. im wondering if i should just get the labor over with now while its still warm outside.
i plan on installing an audio system and subs by the end of the year and i KNOW i will be better off with the 125amp when the system is installed. im wondering if i should just get the labor over with now while its still warm outside.
#56
See roughly a minute in to this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKulYTlhfeA
And FWIW if you have a 4th gen, your AC system doesn't use Freon.
#59
Alternador
i changed my alternator last weekend, i did not have to remove the radiator at all. There are 4 bolts on the a/c compressor, 3 on the alternator and be sure to loosen up the nut on the tensioner pulley before you try to loosen the the tensioner. I then just pushed the compressor out of my way so the alternator could come out. It wasn't that bad at all, it took a couple of hours and thats because i had a six pack while i was working on it .
.. ?
#60
First, you need to remove the serpentine belt. And disconnect the battery.
If the Compressor is in the way and making it hard to get in there, remove the 4 bolts that hold it in place and use a wire hanger from the dry cleaners to suspend it, but allows it to swing around with no stress on the AC lines.
Now comes the Alternator, which isn't really complex. Just need patience and some basic Ratchets and so on.
My experience is Rebuilt Hitachi alternators are MUCH better and way less problematic than most aftermarket new replacements. Hitachi has the exact models that were used over the span of the 4th Gen Maximas. There are several, so research and use the exact same model that came with the car new. I believe Hitachi was the OEM builder that put Nissan labels on the alternators. Also check the pigtail wiring harness attached to the alternator and replace if it is compromised in any way. Put anti seize on all the bolts when reassembling.
Six Pack AFTER the job is done and everything is as it should be! LOL
#61
Last edited by JSutter; 05-18-2022 at 03:17 PM.
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