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Alternator Replacement

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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 12:44 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by danny60632
I changed my alternator last weekend, I did not have to remove the radiator at all. There are 4 bolts on the A/C compressor, 3 on the Alternator and be sure to loosen up the nut on the tensioner pulley before you try to loosen the the tensioner. I then just pushed the compressor out of my way so the alternator could come out. It wasn't that bad at all, it took a couple of hours and thats because I had a six pack while i was working on it .
This is the easiest. I also did it the same way. Here is pix of the A/C compressor loose but not disconnected.

Getting the Alternator out

Many Hitachi 12V alternators will work. I used one for a Murano. The major differences are mounting hole angle and side or back wiring connectors.
Old Oct 9, 2010 | 12:05 AM
  #42  
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Links to the motorvate is dead

Anyone have a working link showing alternator replacement? Thanks
Old Oct 10, 2010 | 10:05 PM
  #43  
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this guy has video how to remove ac compressor, and take off belt too, when you done that u have access to alternator which is 2 bolts only good luck! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKulY...eature=related
Old Oct 30, 2010 | 12:58 PM
  #44  
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Just finished mine in 2 hours taking check football scores and beer breaks all along the way. Probably take less than an hour now that I know how to do it.

Just jacked her up, cut the wheel to the right, dropped the Compressor (4 14 mm bolts) and then it was pretty easy.

quick tip, go to DBelectrical on EBAY the replacement alt was $91.00.

Mine was probably fine but the previous owner I think tightened the idler belt with too much tension and it smoked the alt bearing.

2 shops quotes like $265 for the alt plus 2 hrs labor at $85/hr. I'm all done for $110.00 with a new OEM belt.

Air tools and a nice Sat and it wasnt too bad at all.

Thanks for this forum guys, lots of good real world info for us Do it yourselfers.
Old Nov 9, 2010 | 12:53 PM
  #45  
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HEy guys I just replaced my alternator, tightened all the bolts on everything and now my idler pulley wont slide up and down anymore. it did it before so i could take off the belt but now trying to put the belt back on it wont move. does it have anything to do with the nut on that side of the alternator bolt or something? helop me please!
Old Nov 9, 2010 | 01:06 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by jay7227021
HEy guys I just replaced my alternator, tightened all the bolts on everything and now my idler pulley wont slide up and down anymore. it did it before so i could take off the belt but now trying to put the belt back on it wont move. does it have anything to do with the nut on that side of the alternator bolt or something? helop me please!
You mean the tensioner pulley? First make sure the nut on the front is loose. Yes, if you don't correctly position the nut for the lower alternator bolt, it will jam up against the backside of the tensioner and prevent it from moving.
Old Nov 9, 2010 | 02:59 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by jay7227021
HEy guys I just replaced my alternator, tightened all the bolts on everything and now my idler pulley wont slide up and down anymore. it did it before so i could take off the belt but now trying to put the belt back on it wont move. does it have anything to do with the nut on that side of the alternator bolt or something? helop me please!
I did this too. Remove the whole idler pulley assembly and re-align the square bolt that runs through the pulley back into the track so it can slide up and down. You will see exactly what I am talking about if you remove the whole assembly.
Old Nov 9, 2010 | 03:35 PM
  #48  
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the square bolt is the nut for the bolt to the alternator right? is it hard to take apart the idler assy? what do i have to do for it?
Old Nov 9, 2010 | 04:39 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by jay7227021
the square bolt is the nut for the bolt to the alternator right? is it hard to take apart the idler assy? what do i have to do for it?
As he said, there are two potential issues here. First, and most likely IMO, is that you put the nut for the lower alternator bolt on incorrectly, jamming up the tensioner.

Second, if you loosened the nut on the front of the tensioner pulley too much (it would have to be close to fully off), the stud that the pulley slides on will twist and not lock in to the tensioner bracket properly, also keeping it from working.
Old Nov 9, 2010 | 05:00 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by jay7227021
the square bolt is the nut for the bolt to the alternator right? is it hard to take apart the idler assy? what do i have to do for it?
For more info regarding the idler pulley assembly read this thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-assembly.html

It contains a link to a diagram showing how it's assembled.

Last edited by jholley; Nov 9, 2010 at 05:03 PM.
Old Dec 12, 2010 | 01:15 PM
  #51  
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alternator replacement

Is it just me or does that line to motervate for changing the alternator not work anymore? I click on the alternator R&R and it does nothing.
Old Dec 12, 2010 | 01:54 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Bryanalton
Is it just me or does that line to motervate for changing the alternator not work anymore? I click on the alternator R&R and it does nothing.

Those links are now updated

Last edited by jholley; Dec 13, 2010 at 07:45 AM.
Old Aug 13, 2012 | 01:44 PM
  #53  
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Just did mine, it was a little rough but do-able. Tricky little mounts and things like that but nothing to bad. Took the noobe 3.5 hours with help.
Old Aug 15, 2012 | 12:53 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by NiteShadeX
question... would replacing my 110amp alternator with the 125amp be benefical in terms of lasting longer and less stress on the electronics?

i plan on installing an audio system and subs by the end of the year and i KNOW i will be better off with the 125amp when the system is installed. im wondering if i should just get the labor over with now while its still warm outside.
This is a quantity vs. quality argument.. Go with the most OE alt you can find. Ive been through 5 remans in 7 years. Get an Optima Battery from a local interstate. Get a Blehm itll cost a lot less while still being a kick *** battery. Than do the Big 3. Stay under a 800 Watt RMS Amplifier.
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 01:57 PM
  #55  
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replacing the alternator in 04 maxima

Need to know what bolts on the a.c. compressor I need to remove to take the alternator out don't want to spray Freon in my face
Old Jan 1, 2015 | 02:05 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by mikedowning1989
Need to know what bolts on the a.c. compressor I need to remove to take the alternator out don't want to spray Freon in my face
The 4 bolts that hold the compressor to the bracket.

See roughly a minute in to this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKulYTlhfeA

And FWIW if you have a 4th gen, your AC system doesn't use Freon.
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 08:17 AM
  #57  
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The 4 bolts u see on the ac compressor. Remove those and pull it forward. Replaced my alternator 2 days ago.
Old Jan 2, 2015 | 09:09 PM
  #58  
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Fairly easy job, I would not pay anyone to replace mine. The more you do it the easier it gets.

It should take someone that knows what they are doing an hour tops.
Old May 17, 2022 | 09:30 PM
  #59  
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Alternador

Originally Posted by danny60632
i changed my alternator last weekend, i did not have to remove the radiator at all. There are 4 bolts on the a/c compressor, 3 on the alternator and be sure to loosen up the nut on the tensioner pulley before you try to loosen the the tensioner. I then just pushed the compressor out of my way so the alternator could come out. It wasn't that bad at all, it took a couple of hours and thats because i had a six pack while i was working on it .
so is easy to change. It . I need remove of ac compressor sr
.. ?
Old May 18, 2022 | 11:10 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Tony Cervantes
so is easy to change. It . I need remove of ac compressor sr
.. ?
Before starting anything, make sure the car is safely lifted so you can get under and have room to move your arms when you need to torque the bolts off and on.

First, you need to remove the serpentine belt. And disconnect the battery.
If the Compressor is in the way and making it hard to get in there, remove the 4 bolts that hold it in place and use a wire hanger from the dry cleaners to suspend it, but allows it to swing around with no stress on the AC lines.

Now comes the Alternator, which isn't really complex. Just need patience and some basic Ratchets and so on.

My experience is Rebuilt Hitachi alternators are MUCH better and way less problematic than most aftermarket new replacements. Hitachi has the exact models that were used over the span of the 4th Gen Maximas. There are several, so research and use the exact same model that came with the car new. I believe Hitachi was the OEM builder that put Nissan labels on the alternators. Also check the pigtail wiring harness attached to the alternator and replace if it is compromised in any way. Put anti seize on all the bolts when reassembling.

Six Pack AFTER the job is done and everything is as it should be! LOL
Old May 18, 2022 | 03:15 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Tony Cervantes
so is easy to change. It . I need remove of ac compressor sr
.. ?
Remove the radiator fans and lower splash shield. Then unbolt the a/c compressor mounting bolts (not the hoses) to move aside and then the alternator can come out the bottom. I did the job in about an hour with basic hand tools.

Last edited by RA030726; May 18, 2022 at 03:17 PM.
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