Just across the negative and positive sides of the booster.

 

http://news.cnet.com/8301-11128_3-99...g=2547-1_3-0-5

Scorpion sportscar. Gasoline and Hydrogen on demand...

 

Ive been following this thread for a while, but I just want to know have anyone seems significant mpg improvement after the HHO installed.

 

Well, I don't have mine installed yet, and I don't believe anyone else has yet to offer an extensive road test, though, I could be wrong. I am at the point where I need to install the EFIE's in my car in order to do a test. I do have a carburated car that I could test it on, however, it doesn't have a stainless steel exhaust and it's all original. So, I reserve my experiments for cars I can mod that have easily replaceable parts

 

i should of looked at this site a while ago.. i am building the Smack booster. and will test it on my car after i replace the clutch and re grease my starter.. actually really was building it for the truck (gas pig) but want to test it on the max as it is a hell of allot cheaper to replace and not under warranty any more

Great info and thank you. i decided to build this a while ago and never thought of looking on the org to see if any one ran into any snags or problems with our cars.

Keep us informed

 

what's up guys. I'm very glad, as well as surprised, that some actually know about this on a public forum. By the way, i have what seems to be water4gas books if any body wants a Pm. Any word on the EFIE? Also, did anybody try the SAFCII? I'm wondering if using the SAFCII would be better than EFIE. regarding the multiple EFIE's, I'm thinking connecting the multiple O2 sensors in parallel might work to avoid buying another EFIE.

 

I saw that i had 1 post and i let out a loud WTF, so i logged in with the right user name...........

 

guys, I just looked at the smacksbooster design and i have few concerns: wouldn't be better to connect the positive and negative to the right and left, instead of connecting one to the right and the other to the middle of the plate group; Also, what's the point of that wire in the bottom connecting the far left plate to the far right plate.... thnx

 

I have watched this thread every now and then and felt after today I could chime in about some things. One of my instructors at school had an older student come in today and show us the booster he had hooked up to his brothers 92 Nissan Sentra. For the main container (the one with the terminals on top) he used a glass jar (plastic was too inefficient, but Im sure you guys knew that) and had 2 stainless steel pipes separated by rubber tubing. One pipe was an inch in diameter and the other was slightly smaller (he put the smaller one in the bigger one and welded stainless steel terminals on top) He had a switch to turn it off, but he said he had been leaving it on all the time with no problems. We brought in a gas analyzer to see what was coming out the tailpipe and results were good. Emissions were slightly lower and the AFR was lean as hell (around 26-27 at idle compared to about 17 at idle on a direct injection Pontiac Solstice) Overall its a good system and he claims the power increase alone is worth installing one. No codes (although this is OBD1)

 

I believe he's using Stan Meyer's design with the resonant tubes. I think that was claimed to be the most efficient design. However, stan used multiple tubes inside while connecting only the outer and inner ones to + and -...

 

Smack is an open bath system.
Composed of 2 parallel of 4 series cell.
4 series cell on the left, and 4 series cell on the right.

You are asking to convert it to 8 series cell, you wont get much gas production (vs the energy used). It'll become less efficient. No need to explain it here.

Smack is a good start, build and experiment to understand how electrolyzer works, then move to a better and efficient design readily available (or come with a better one, and share it back to the community)

I normally frequent the hydroxy yahoo group, Smack (Electrik_1) is there who designed the smack booster, and Bob Boyce who designed the 101 plates series cell (boyce box) and the Tero Cell, and may others. That's where I'm posting my results of my (acrylic container) true 6 series cell. I may or may not post it here, if I do, it'll just be related to my nissan Altima. The purpose I joined this group is I want to know how to run cables thru the firewall in my Altima without drilling holes (which i'm still looking for answers), but end up with the HHO discussion, which is good too, since it helps spread awareness.

The information and answers to your questions are all in the smack plan, and discussed in detail in the hydroxy group.

Guys, I suggest you join hydroxy for a more thorough discussion about the subject, lots of things happening there: http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Hydroxy/

See you there guys.

.

 

will do, but also, if possible, post here regarding how the experiment work on our cars.

 

mad-max98, you mentioned you have the water4gas docs?
I suggest to post it where everybody can download it, or post it on torrent, those guys are ripping off noobs with this docs. im not sure what's exactly in there, but I heared it's just a compilation of all the booster designs that are freely downloadable.

And iff anybody bought their mason jar electrolyzer, measure it up and see if it really comes close to smack's booster gas output (with the same current consumption), you are in for a surprise, you'll be better of building smacksbooster.

 

It's copyrighted, can't post it on a public forum, Pm me..

 

Question: what's the advantage of using the 200 bucks SAFCII over the EFIE besides thhe looks and being able to have different settings for the RPM range?

 

I already did, twice... let me know.

Thanks.

 

Just found this site while looking for ideas on where to mount a 4" PVC system in my 2000 Maxima GLX. Took me 2 evenings to read thru all the posts.

I just went on a 180 mile trip to visit my brother over the weekend. I couldn't wait to try out a hydrogen system, so I went to Wal-Mart and bought a 3pk of 2 cup twist top plastic food containers and build a small system. I had heard distilled vinegar and distilled water works. Anyway, it took me about an hour to build up a system and install it on my car. It's small enough to fit on the tray with the battery. I put a 15A fuse and a switch in-line, but it only drew 1A cold. We filled up before starting the trip and got 150 miles before the gas gague hit 3/4 tank. We typically don't get more than about 340-360 miles on a full tank running 87. Don't know when it happened, but the container burst. So, my brother and I built a new one with 2" PVC scraps (he owns a sprinkler system business) for the trip home. It also burst and earlier in the trip since I wasn't using neutrals and the spacing was tighter on the second one. We got 125 miles by 3/4 tank mark. My wife is out now with no HHO system and I asked her to look at 3/4 tank and see how many miles are on the trip meter. So far, the MPG numbers at the pump are typical for highway driving: 25.6 The most I've ever gotten in that car is 28mpg driving gently on a 3 hour trip.

EDIT: My wife called and said the trip meter was at 79 miles when the needle hit 3/4 tank (typical track record for the car: 80 x 4 = 320 miles per tank). Sounds good, but I will have to drive the same path a few times with and without before I get too excited...

I used an aquarium air pump check valve and poly hose shoved down the intake before the air filter. No bubbler. The car didn't feel any different. I'm sure these little devices weren't making enough gas to do much good.

I'm still iffy on this stuff. I'm pretty sure it will work to improve efficiency, but I won't know until my Smack system is built and it lasts for a tank or 3 without self-destructing. I'm building to prove it to myself. I also have a plan for a custom EFIE, but I'm not going to use a 555 or LM3914. I have a bunch of Microchip PIC processors here with ADC with 0-1V range that I can interface with an LCD and LEAN/RICH buttons. The circuit after the selector switch in the Vehicle_Computer.pdf file from this thread will handle the output. I've got all the parts here to build one (or two if my rear O2 sensor needs it).

As for Smack mods, would it be better to build it with a single bank of 6 or 7 cells instead of two 4-cell sections? It should run cooler, right? Then up the NaOH to get the same gas out?

 

Guys, I know somebody mentioned in the previous post about the friction generated when you put loads on the alternator. This is actually true, the more demand on the alternator, the higher the opposing back EMF will be generated... and it'll make it hard to turn.

You have to find the optimum level where you can pull current from the alternator where there will be little or no effect to your engine... and you have to tune your HHO booster not to exceed this current draw, or else you wont get any mileage improvments, or worst, it will lower your mpg.

Took a lot of time to figure this out on mine, and find out that I can pull 11amps of current from my alt with very little effect on the engine, and use this current to generate HHO and send it back to the engine to burn. That means, my booster should not exceed this current draw... or i'd rather disable the HHO booster.

Depends on how efficient your alternator is, You can probably pull more amps with no or very little effect on the engine.

A dyno can surely help on this...

 

I agree on this one...
This explains why I noticed that my mpg decreases when I configure my booster to pull 15amps or more... and a mileage increase if I set it at 8-9amps.

my current booster is at 1.2liters/min on 9amps,13volts, that is 117watts.
that means, it is producing around 10ml of HHO gas per watt of energy.

Always measure your gas production and your current draw, so that you'll know how how efficient your boosters are, and how much energy you are consuming and the volume of gas you are generating and feeding back to your engine.

If you are consuming 9amps, and only producing 200ml, Just dont use that booster in your car pls, it will just cost you more.

There are a lot of negative reports because of this from people who just put together an HHO generator thinking it will work right away, and complained it did not work in their cars even their boosters are producing huge volume of HHO...

When you ask them, "how efficient is your gas production (watts vs. hho volume)?" They dont know!!!.

 

My Smack booster is 99% complete. I just need some zip ties to hold the bubbler on the booster. All I have left to do is build by efie's and wire it into my car. I will be testing the booster this weekend and will update on the l/min of gas being created as well.

I hope it is efficient or this was a big waste of money for me.

Pics are here.

I tried to get the spacing of the plates as similar as possible. Lemme know what you think. It is not the neatest I have seen but sure as hell not the ghetoest. (spelling?)

 

more pics of the girl

 

Hell yeah, she has some nice legs

 

Wow!!!.
Who cares if that booster will be efficient or not..
Can you post more pics. and more close up please!

 

Wow!!!.
Who cares if that booster will be efficient or not..
Can you post more pics. and more close up please!

 

Com'on Powerman, don't be a party pooper LOL

 

I'll post some tonight when she is sleeping...

 

So has anyone had this work successfully? By successfully I mean around 40 MPG?

 

There is a guy in Huntsville AL who was on the Rick & Bubba show yesterday, saying before he was getting around 20mpg. Now he is getting close to 50mpg using this set up.

 

Yeah, there was some guy on the news last night with an 85 Honda Civic that went from 35mpg to 70mpg, but I'm wondering how it will work with OBDII and cars running boost or that require premium unleaded. It would be one more reason to keep the Max if it was getting 40+ mpg.

 

Built a mini-Smack last night with 1.5" s/s fender washers (4 series cell) instead of the wall plates. It makes more gas than my first 2 test units and doesn't get nearly as hot. I'm going to put it into my 2" setup and drive it this weekend. Hope the PVC doesn't melt this time!

 

Let us know how it goes.

 

GUys, pardon my booster at the backseat, but it's working pretty good.

Who needs petrol! Woohoo!

To naysayers, l*k my a$$ !!!.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eb9urNUFzAM

 

All Pm's replied, let me know if you didn't get an email...

 

Bought some of the smack booster parts today! Still need to order some more.

Been doing some thinking about the HHO gas setup. Mainly about adjusting the ECU to run correctly. I understand alot of about tuning and the air-fuel ratios with gasoline engines. As already mentioned, when the HHO gas is added the ECU will think its running lean and will add more fuel. I really want to ability to monitor the fuel ratio to make sure the engine is running at a good ratio and not running too lean or too rich. The last thing I want to do if fry my engine because it was too rich or too lean.

I'm thinkin about using a wideband to monitor the ratio and possibly a EFIE or something similar to adjust the O2 reading to the computer. Now, I know that stoich for gasoline is 14.7:1 but I looked up stoich for hydrogen and its 34:1. When running a combination of gasoline and hydrogen, how can I know if the engine is running at a stoich ratio? I'm a bit confused here about how I would tune the car since it involves two types of fuels. Anyone have any ideas?

 

... not to mention that the ammount of HHO produced will change as the water runs out in the device

 

Yeah, and the engine will be getting the same amount of HHO gas at idle as it will at WOT. So how can the fuel ratio be correct? And then what if I go through the work of tuning the car with the booster making 1.7L/min for example and then a few weeks later, because the water level or NaOH level is lower, the booster makes 1.5L/min. The tune would technically be slightly off.

 

Yeah, you're right. We need a more universal solution.

 

I'm in the process of getting everything needed. For the add on we attempting to try, i think we hhave to monitor EGT, Wideband and knock. I bought the SAFC II for the correction and knock functions and bought the LC-1 XD-16 for the wideband function.

 

I didn't have time to finish building my mini-smack before the trip this weekend. But, we got home early, so I have it done now and installed in the car. Will drive the rest of this tank and see how it goes. It's drawing 4.5A hot and with the car running. Less than 2A cold and with the car off. Since there's only about a pint of water in there, I don't want to have it pulling too many amps and melt the PVC. I've also got to do a bottle test and see how much gas it's making.

 

i just got a VAFC2 and a Zeitronix ZT-2 to tune and monitor EGT and knock. Once I get those hooked up I will get back into working with this.