yes very true there is always an energy loss but is that energy loss equal or greater than the energy gained? then you find a net gain.

 

lol...

And now for the raw deal....



As I said yesterday I did a messy messy job. I was so anxious to see what this thing does that I really didn't care the way it looked.

First off, I didn't like what I did with the vacuum line, so I bought a new PVC hose and did a clean job with the automotive heat tape



Currently the positive wire is connected to the postitve terminal on the battery through the fuse (see pic 1, red wire on the right hand side is the fuse). Every time before turning off the engine I take out the fuse. That will certainly change ASAP.

As you can see the jar is being held by two bungee cords.

Now for some bubbling action:





Current results:

I remixed the mixture using twice as less electrolyte as I did previously. The system now runs on 15 Amp fuse with no problems, but as I understand from the manual it's not draining more then 6-7.

When I first put in the fuse I went back into the house, came out after two minutes and I was surprised at how much quieter the engine ran (engine was still cold). I honestly never heard another maxima run this quiet (4th gen at least).

Upon driving out I noticed an immediate addition of power at the pedal (wouldn't say it was anything drastic, but...). After about 45 minutes of driving the engine became even quieter, and much smoother then before installing the system. My RPM's in idling dropped to about 0.4 - 0.5, which, usually they were at least 0.7 (it is after all a 95). It is very noticable that I do not have to press down the gas pedal as much as before for the car to pick up speed, specifically in low RPM's. Why in low RPM's?

Well, it's because my current setup is inefficient. While idling and in low rpms the vacuum takes in the gas with no problem. When you get to high rpms the vacuum drops and there is much more pull in the air intake. Therefore, for a few seconds as I put the pedal to the metal I have the additional power while the remaining gas in the system burns, but then the air from the intake takes over and there is an immediate drop.

That is what the manual recommends. To get the full benefit of additional power I will need to put a T connector in the tubing providing the flow of HHO to the air intake, which is what I'll do as soon as I get a cone filter in.

I have also decided to make a water cacher just in case.

As for MPG gains, it's too early to say. I will have to do more extensive testing. From what I've read I will need to trick the ECU since there will be a confusion with the oxygen sensor. When it doesn't find enough oxygen coming out of the system after combustion the ECU forcefully tries to adjust the fuel ratio to compensate. Therefore I may not be getting any mpg increases at the moment.

The answer to this problem is a Digital Oxygen Sensor Enhancer, also known as the EFIE Device (Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer)

http://www.eagle-research.com/products/pfuels.html

This tricks the OS by providing the "propper" reading for the ECU therefore taking advantage of the fuel savings.

Already ordered and expecting delivery.

I guess that's about it for now, more to come.

 

you should dyno it. I CANT WAIT to see increases if any.

P.S. I dont know how comfortable I would be with all thos wires right by my battery like that.

 

This does not work. Even if this actually separates water into the separate ions it will always use more energy than it produces. If not then we would do away with fossil fuel completely and go with water for our energy uses. It's BS

 

Nobody is doubting that, it is a proven fact, BUT...

If you dudes, who have not slepped through the chemistry and physics classes took the time to read the testimonies from the many people who actually installed such devices and saw the videos showing the actual gains in MPG you would see that your arguments are insufficient.

The engine is not running on HHO. HHO is used in making the EXISTING fuel burn cleaner and more efficient.

Yeah I know. Comfort level going down every second I look at it.

Will be fixed soon.

 

 

2H2 and O2 might burn clean, but it doesn't make a "cleaner burn". infact, its probably like driving with a blown head gasket... you know, because of the whole "water in the cylinder" thing...

you may be right, that the "alternator is already generating the energy and is going to waist" but you would be better off running a smaller alternator, or an UDP and you would see bigger gains in performance and MPG. especially for $1000.

i seem to recall that the more Amps being used from an alternator / generator the more difficult it is to rotate the coils past the magnetic field, but its been years since i did my electrical engineering course.

 

well I am just glad that some one actually tryed it. that is awsome and I hope it works cause that would shut a crap ton of you all up.

 

The approximate cost of the whole kit was $230 (well below 1000). If I was to build it myself from scratch it would be around $100. It is by the way so simple that anybody can do it.

I drove the car again and I am not halucinating. There is gain in HP once the engine is warm, if only in low RPMs, and the fact that engine is quieter is undeniable. Can't wait for my oxygen sensor modifiers to arrive.

Search the net. Do you really think this many companies would be making same product if it wasn't doing anything? Don't you think that consumers would finally expose the fraud insted of leaving positive testimonies? Look at how large the wikipedia page is on the subject, how many different links they have.

 

Kadantsev i am stoked to see where this leads you!!!

everyone says its all bullshyt, you have to prove them all wrong (because I don't have $230)

so its up to you

 

Agreed

I have the $230 but you are kinda like my guinny pig for this cause I may be next.

 

read up on perpetual motion.

answer me this, how do you get "extra energy" from water by keeping it the same?
your turning water into a explosive gas into water again?

like i said, the best you can hope for is a temporary power gain due to the kenetic energy

its so frustrating arguing this because the concept is simple however people add to it making it complicated (as in, adding things like fuel) making it more difficult to logically disprove..

Basically... Take out your 15 amp fuse, and run a 120 amp fuse (our Alternators are rated at 110 from memory), remove all gasoline from the engine, now re rout your exhaust pipe into the "water cell", as all that will be coming out if you burn HHO is water right? then try and start your car.. then explain to me why it wouldn't work?

 

White, I understand what you are talking about, but there is something that you logically need to realize.

Science does not always work to benefit human kind. It is a very well known fact that more often science is used to benefit separate individuals who have the doe, and want more doe.

The Alternator already produces more power then needs to be used. It is made to. If we take that unused power to create fuel out of water then there is no loss in energy, only gain, because you are using the energy which is being wasted anyways. Keep in mind, yet again, that there is a third variable - Gasolene. When our HHO is mixed with Gasolene there is a bigger gain during combustion in both efficiency and power than there is with Gasolene alone. Therefore in THIS particular setup there is no loss in energy. I am not trying to make a vehicle that runs on water, although I have several plans of 100% water powered vehicle but that will blow most of yall' fuses. If any one wants them I will gladly provide. I am trying to assist an existing system in burning the fuel cleaner, more efficiently, and use up more of the potential power of it while it is being burnt.

Have you heard of the Catalytic Converter?.. Duh... You of course know why we have it. To burn the fuel which is not being burnt in the cylinders. HHO system nearly eliminates the need for the Cat because, once again, the burn is more efficient and fuller in the first place.

Thanks for all your support. Really means a lot.

 

I'll tell you what.

As soon as I finish the propper install of this system I will dyno it. Perfomance wise my car is bone stock except for the HHO, although I can easily turn the system off and do a dyno then.

If I am wrong, then there isn't much I can do about it.

 

I wanna see results. You don't have to prove anything to us. So to be fair, and compensate you for being a guinea pig, set up a paypal account, and take $5 donations to be applied to the dyno and kit.

Dr J

 

thats a good idea.

 

lol

you guys are great.

"I'd like to take this moment to thank my fans for being with me, my family, my boss for being an a$$hole..."

I'll finish the setup first though. Like I mentioned, there's a few things I need to see through.

 

how's the project coming? dyno it yet? get any MPG readings on it? did your engine hydro lock yet?

 

I can't wait for the gas mileage/dyno results. Thankfully America is a place where people have a lot of money to waste

 

You know one thing..........The EGR and this system would be counter productive with each other, I would be curious to see if disabling the EGR, will provide the kind of results youre lokoing for.

 

Man this is some serious stuff! those vids are itneresting! but whos gunna be the first to turn their maxima into a hover craft? anyone?

 

well i was thinking about putting a jet engine in mine but i decided not just because I couldnt see out the back.

 

hydro lock


awaiting on the much anticipated dyno sheets

 

kinda off topic but you brought up custommaxima.com which i thought was long gone.
dunno how there up again, maybe a new owner.
but i found you another way to save gas:

Arctic Wind Cold Air Intake System

yours for only $240.40

 

DUDE I SHOULD GET TWO!!!! I bet it would add 26hp if you had a pee hole to start with.

But seriously I hope this works. that would be a super sweet upgrade (im reffering to the HHO kit).

 

hah!

That's funny...

Well, first off I redid the install for a much cleaner job. Made a water catcher using an empty water bottle and it's a good thing I did. Caught about 1/4 inch from a week of driving.

I was supposed to install a cone air filter today to finally finish the setup, but the dude at the store is having trouble with getting the converter from the stock airbox. (to remind: I need the air intake to have the HHO flow in high RPMs).

My friend who is the local man of electonics is making those simple oxygen sensor modifiers, so the system should be functioning at full capacity by next week.

Sorry for the delay



Overall though I must say I am already very satisfied. Engine is quiter and much more calm. And I do enjoy the extra kick in the acceleration.

 

no dyno, no care.

 

I know, I know,

No one ever does.... It ain't something you can put on paper, you have to feel to appreciate.

I'm kidding of course. As I promised, as soon as it's complete, there will be proof.

 

It's not that I don't believe that you're telling the truth...I'm sure you are. I just know that my butt dyno is not always accurate, and I'm sure it's the same for most people. In a situation like this, with a product so highly criticized, you're going to need some hardcore proof to make a believer out of anyone. Including me

Thanks, though, for being the guinea pig!

 

ahhh the suspence is killing me just put the filter in it is super easy, and get to a dyno......!!!!

 

Butt dyno's valid for part-throttle occassions, which's most of my driving. Dunno too many daily drivers that are 90% time WOT.

Dr J

 

IMO, butt-dyno is NEVER a valid tool for use in a comparison of mods, especially when used for a mod yielding negligible gains, if any at all.

But dynos have no standards...there's no way to compare one person's butt dyno to another's. Many times, butt dyno results = imagination.

 

Ok, somewhat of a setback today.



The plastic inside the device holding the spiral of two electrodes which is supposed to look like in the Pic 2 has melted.



It appears that one tablespoon of baking soda is also too much electrolyser. With a rather powerful 15A fuse the system overheats, and the plastic melts in a nasty ball of goo. The electrodes shorted and the fuse blew.





Sorry for the crappy phone pics.

On the brighter side of things the water catcher is continuously catching plenty of water!



Will Kadantsev FINALLY blow up his car? Stay tuned!

 

Carry on, Trooper! I'd paypal u just to keep this experiment going. Mad props (esp on the water issue). No hydrolock please!
Dr J

 

Thanks Doc,

I won't back down!

Just need to find a shop in the area to do a dyno.

 

Come on man, we're all

 

totally agree.

 

so you really havent measured your gas mileage once in this like 2 week time frame?....

 

sorry nobody talks to birds. u bird

 

Yeah I have.

The device wasn't operational for 100% of time, but there is no change in MPG because of the oxygen sensor issue.

Currently the engine is forcing fuel in to reach the optimal reading on the sensors.

There's more setbacks. The second device has just burnt down as well. I must say I do not recommend any one to get the starter's kit from driveonwater.com . The quality and the materials used are low.

I do intend to continue with the project however.