A decade old; time for new suspension!
#1
A decade old; time for new suspension!
I need suggestions on some good Shocks & springs for my Maxima. It's definatly time to replace my old ones, my ride bounces over every bump in the road. I don't want to lower my Maxima too much (for reasons of: I don't want to hit/scrape everycurb).
Also, I have to replace the air filter for my PlaceRacing CAI, and I don't know the dimensions. Can anyone help plz. I think its 2.5inch but i'm not sure.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOKIC...spagenameZWDVW
Tell me if these are any good. this is a link to some suspension on ebay
Plz help, I plan on doing so soon.
Also, I have to replace the air filter for my PlaceRacing CAI, and I don't know the dimensions. Can anyone help plz. I think its 2.5inch but i'm not sure.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOKIC...spagenameZWDVW
Tell me if these are any good. this is a link to some suspension on ebay
Plz help, I plan on doing so soon.
Last edited by Tight_Whip; 04-14-2008 at 08:17 AM.
#2
hey I'm actually going to help you out before you get flammed. That setup is decent (from what I read), but those shocks/struts are basically just stock replacements.
I suggest buying those same shocks/struts, but from a member in the classifieds section who's looking for 300+shipping. He's been wanting them sold for a while so I'm sure you could offer a little less. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=550269
Then, if you wanted a bigger drop, you could buy the progress lowering springs in the Group Deals section for only $157 shipped. The drop on those is 1.7F and 1.5R. This is probably the lowest you want to go with those OE replacement shocks/struts. Unless you want to step it up to the Tokico Illumina's, then you would be fine.
Lastly, you will need to buy some other things like the bumpstops/boots, mounts, bushings...search
I suggest buying those same shocks/struts, but from a member in the classifieds section who's looking for 300+shipping. He's been wanting them sold for a while so I'm sure you could offer a little less. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=550269
Then, if you wanted a bigger drop, you could buy the progress lowering springs in the Group Deals section for only $157 shipped. The drop on those is 1.7F and 1.5R. This is probably the lowest you want to go with those OE replacement shocks/struts. Unless you want to step it up to the Tokico Illumina's, then you would be fine.
Lastly, you will need to buy some other things like the bumpstops/boots, mounts, bushings...search
Last edited by VANGtastic97; 04-14-2008 at 09:14 AM.
#3
I am replacing my suspension
I am also finally replacing my struts/springs on my 1995 Maxima which I actually bought brand spanking new in 1994. My maxima didn't bounce but did give me a very stiff ride. I replaced the rears but my car's backend is moving all over the place when I hit a big bump. Doing the fronts this week I hope I get the original ride back, it was sweet!
#5
Because this is a subject that has been covered in countless threads dating back to 1999...that and search is now free so everyone needs to use it....Oh and its also in the stickies...
#8
Do you have any pictures? Also, a buddy of mine was telling me that any time you lower a car you need to emplace a camber kit. This is so, because he said "it will wear out your tires faster," do to the fact that when you lower the car the camber angle changes forcing more weight on etheir side of the tire(depending on angle).
#9
Somebody chime in if Im wrong but if youre just doing a mild drop, (I suggest the h&r springs and tokico shocks setup), youll just need a good 4 wheel alignment. Dont forget to get new mounts, too. You COULD go stock but in my opinion, your car will look SOOOOO much better without that 4x4 wheelgap you got going on. Plus, handling is greatly improved. Wont scrape, either. Just take real tall speed bumps nice n slow.
#10
Picking an after market suspension is all up to your wants and needs. We can give you all the info but its still your ultimate decision. That is what I was meaning with using the search engine. You can find and see how each different setup affects other variables, thus giving you a better understanding and ability to pick a proper set up.
#11
Somebody chime in if Im wrong but if youre just doing a mild drop, (I suggest the h&r springs and tokico shocks setup), youll just need a good 4 wheel alignment. Dont forget to get new mounts, too. You COULD go stock but in my opinion, your car will look SOOOOO much better without that 4x4 wheelgap you got going on. Plus, handling is greatly improved. Wont scrape, either. Just take real tall speed bumps nice n slow.
#13
I also forgot to mention anything about your PR CAI...It isnt worth cutting a 3in hole in your fender wall...Nissan did a very good job in designing the 4th gens air intake...It really is the best intake for our cars...
#14
![hide](https://maxima.org/forums/images/smilies/hide.gif)
Eibach springs are always an option if you dont want to drop much.
#15
Oh, I put the PR CAI a long time ago(i just needed the dimensions for the replacement air filter; which I now have and already bought though)... Hehe, thanks though.
#17
Since you are looking for opinioons, here is mine: you have 2 ways to do this:
1) you can go stock replacement, but really you want to get the Tokico illuminatas. The package that is sold on e-bay gos for about $500 shipped and is springs and 5 way adjustable struts. Then you can get an alignment--but expect to only get as close an 1 degree of negative camber. This will not significantly impact your tire wear.
If you decide to do anything else... get coilovers (see #2 below)
2) Coilovers. here you can adjust you drop, usually as much as 4" and you can usually adjust camber. If you go for option #1 above and add camber plates, you might as well buy coilovers. you can find them for $800 new or much less new.
option 2 may sound like a lot, but if you go for Illuminata ($500) and add camber plates ($250+) and then have to buy new Top portions of th strut ($150 at least) you can see where you are already at the price of a coilover.
I don't think Tokico Blues are worth it. unless you struts are blown and you are looking for a stock replacement, use them as simply a cheaper alternative to OEM.
Now, after you drop your Maxima remember to align it. Some say 4 wheel tohers say we cant 4 wheel. What you really want is to find a shop that does race cars and ask for... are you listening?? Ask for a 4 wheel thrust angle alignment AND (did you see the AND) re-center your rear beam.
Let me explain. When you drop your rear suspension, the lateral link is at an angle ans the suspension will be off-center about 1/2" for every 3" of drop. To really get everything tracking correctly, you need this.
My opinion for you is option1.
1) you can go stock replacement, but really you want to get the Tokico illuminatas. The package that is sold on e-bay gos for about $500 shipped and is springs and 5 way adjustable struts. Then you can get an alignment--but expect to only get as close an 1 degree of negative camber. This will not significantly impact your tire wear.
If you decide to do anything else... get coilovers (see #2 below)
2) Coilovers. here you can adjust you drop, usually as much as 4" and you can usually adjust camber. If you go for option #1 above and add camber plates, you might as well buy coilovers. you can find them for $800 new or much less new.
option 2 may sound like a lot, but if you go for Illuminata ($500) and add camber plates ($250+) and then have to buy new Top portions of th strut ($150 at least) you can see where you are already at the price of a coilover.
I don't think Tokico Blues are worth it. unless you struts are blown and you are looking for a stock replacement, use them as simply a cheaper alternative to OEM.
Now, after you drop your Maxima remember to align it. Some say 4 wheel tohers say we cant 4 wheel. What you really want is to find a shop that does race cars and ask for... are you listening?? Ask for a 4 wheel thrust angle alignment AND (did you see the AND) re-center your rear beam.
Let me explain. When you drop your rear suspension, the lateral link is at an angle ans the suspension will be off-center about 1/2" for every 3" of drop. To really get everything tracking correctly, you need this.
My opinion for you is option1.
#18
Since you are looking for opinioons, here is mine: you have 2 ways to do this:
1) you can go stock replacement, but really you want to get the Tokico illuminatas. The package that is sold on e-bay gos for about $500 shipped and is springs and 5 way adjustable struts. Then you can get an alignment--but expect to only get as close an 1 degree of negative camber. This will not significantly impact your tire wear.
If you decide to do anything else... get coilovers (see #2 below)
2) Coilovers. here you can adjust you drop, usually as much as 4" and you can usually adjust camber. If you go for option #1 above and add camber plates, you might as well buy coilovers. you can find them for $800 new or much less new.
option 2 may sound like a lot, but if you go for Illuminata ($500) and add camber plates ($250+) and then have to buy new Top portions of th strut ($150 at least) you can see where you are already at the price of a coilover.
I don't think Tokico Blues are worth it. unless you struts are blown and you are looking for a stock replacement, use them as simply a cheaper alternative to OEM.
Now, after you drop your Maxima remember to align it. Some say 4 wheel tohers say we cant 4 wheel. What you really want is to find a shop that does race cars and ask for... are you listening?? Ask for a 4 wheel thrust angle alignment AND (did you see the AND) re-center your rear beam.
Let me explain. When you drop your rear suspension, the lateral link is at an angle ans the suspension will be off-center about 1/2" for every 3" of drop. To really get everything tracking correctly, you need this.
My opinion for you is option1.
1) you can go stock replacement, but really you want to get the Tokico illuminatas. The package that is sold on e-bay gos for about $500 shipped and is springs and 5 way adjustable struts. Then you can get an alignment--but expect to only get as close an 1 degree of negative camber. This will not significantly impact your tire wear.
If you decide to do anything else... get coilovers (see #2 below)
2) Coilovers. here you can adjust you drop, usually as much as 4" and you can usually adjust camber. If you go for option #1 above and add camber plates, you might as well buy coilovers. you can find them for $800 new or much less new.
option 2 may sound like a lot, but if you go for Illuminata ($500) and add camber plates ($250+) and then have to buy new Top portions of th strut ($150 at least) you can see where you are already at the price of a coilover.
I don't think Tokico Blues are worth it. unless you struts are blown and you are looking for a stock replacement, use them as simply a cheaper alternative to OEM.
Now, after you drop your Maxima remember to align it. Some say 4 wheel tohers say we cant 4 wheel. What you really want is to find a shop that does race cars and ask for... are you listening?? Ask for a 4 wheel thrust angle alignment AND (did you see the AND) re-center your rear beam.
Let me explain. When you drop your rear suspension, the lateral link is at an angle ans the suspension will be off-center about 1/2" for every 3" of drop. To really get everything tracking correctly, you need this.
My opinion for you is option1.
#19
But it will lessen it to where it isnt as noticeable to the regular person..
#20
Cheap and simple way to give you a little less wheel gap and a little better handling. You will still have a lose *** end with this set up in the turns. If you want a low wheel gap it is not going to make you happy. Progressive(cattman) spring cars look great to me on that.
An alignment is always good to check. I put S.tech(2.2/1.8) and my car was still in factory spec when i had my checked out. Put it to the fact I got it when she had 28k miles and I never put her over a curb.
An alignment is always good to check. I put S.tech(2.2/1.8) and my car was still in factory spec when i had my checked out. Put it to the fact I got it when she had 28k miles and I never put her over a curb.
#21
Cheap and simple way to give you a little less wheel gap and a little better handling. You will still have a lose *** end with this set up in the turns. If you want a low wheel gap it is not going to make you happy. Progressive(cattman) spring cars look great to me on that.
An alignment is always good to check. I put S.tech(2.2/1.8) and my car was still in factory spec when i had my checked out. Put it to the fact I got it when she had 28k miles and I never put her over a curb.
An alignment is always good to check. I put S.tech(2.2/1.8) and my car was still in factory spec when i had my checked out. Put it to the fact I got it when she had 28k miles and I never put her over a curb.
#22
Suspension gap
OK just finished the fronts with stock OEM struts and springs SE. I now have noticebale wheel gap in the front but when I did the rears it seemed to stay the same. Now I have heard the suspension "settles after a few thousand miles" and the car should balance out to that original stock look. Is this true?
I am learning this forum which seems like a tough crowd for etiquette but I'm just an old guy looking for advice for a car that keeps me happy!
I am learning this forum which seems like a tough crowd for etiquette but I'm just an old guy looking for advice for a car that keeps me happy!
#23
OK just finished the fronts with stock OEM struts and springs SE. I now have noticebale wheel gap in the front but when I did the rears it seemed to stay the same. Now I have heard the suspension "settles after a few thousand miles" and the car should balance out to that original stock look. Is this true?
I am learning this forum which seems like a tough crowd for etiquette but I'm just an old guy looking for advice for a car that keeps me happy!
I am learning this forum which seems like a tough crowd for etiquette but I'm just an old guy looking for advice for a car that keeps me happy!
#25
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