hay guys

the alarm on my car has never made 1 sound i can still use the keyless entry and lock the windows go down with the remote and the trunk opens as well but ive tried to trip the alarm but it dosnt work. also my cruise control dosnt work the light turns on but nothing happens i was wondering if it was all in the same ballpark ive tried all the fuses and they all seem to be fine any suggestions. and befor someone says it ive already tried searching for it i didnt get any answer

 

Does the horn work?

 

yeah the horn works

 

totally different ballpark.Di you just find out all of this or were either of them working and then just died all of a sudden.?

 

Ive had the car for a year and a half and they never worked

 

Going to watch this thread... I've had the same issues with mine, so if a solution is found, please post it.

 

Kind of strange problem, cruise control and alarm circuits don't have very much in common. This could be two seperate problems.

Here are a few relatively easy things you can try.

Check fuses #64 (10 AMP) and #65 (10AMP) I believe they are located in the under dash fuse box. Make sure you are checking the correct fuses, pull them out and take a good look at them, don't just measure them in circuit with a tester. Pull them out of the fuse box and measure them if you have a tester or ohmmeter. If those are OK than check your horn, theft warning horn and speed control relays under the hood. You may consider removing, inspecting and reinserting those relays.

The body control module controls the alarm horns, Erase the BCM memory turn the ignition switch to “OFF” positionand remove 7.5A fuse (No. 56 , located in the fuse and fusible link box).

Are there any other functions/circuits that are not working?

Do the headlights flash when alarm is activated?

Possible someone had installed an aftermarket alarm on this car?

 

Can't speak for the thread starter, but on mine...

1. The fuses checked all look good on visual inspection.

2. I've tried swapping out relays for others and no change in behavior.

3. I'm not positive, but I think I cleared the BCM using your method. I turned off the car, removed the BCM 7.5 fuse and turned the car back on and then turned it back off, then replaced the fuse again. No changes.

4. Nothing else is not working that I'm aware of (other than I don't seem to ever get a low fuel light, including after a gauge cluster swap).

5. Headlights flash when alarm is activated as well as the security light on the dash. Horn works fine as well. No aftermarket alarm has ever been installed.

6. Same as thread starter... cruise does not work. Light on the switch comes on, however cruise does not engage and nothing on the gauge cluster.

 

I can probably help you figure this out but before I spend more time and rack my brain I really want to make sure the easy stuff is checked. I have helped others who initally posted that their fuses all checked good but with closer inspection they were blown. Some times the fuse numbers they were checking were not the correct ones. Not sure what you mean by visual inspection, I assume you removed the fuse from it's socket and looked at it. It's best if you can remove the fuse, make sure it's actually the fuse number specified, and check it with an ohmmeter or fuse tester.

Check fuses #64 (10 AMP) and #65 (10AMP) one or both of those may be located in the fusible link box under the hood near the battery. Have you checked those fuses? Also check under dash fuse#12 (7.5AMP) #17 (10 AMP) and #10 (15 AMP). The fuse numbers are printed next to the fuses on the fuse box, you have to look closely.

I also need to know if you have auto trans or manual. I have found some circuits that are common to both the cruise and the alarm but these circuits are differ depending auto or manual.

 

If you have a manual then locate and check the clutch and brake switches if either are not working properly the cruise turns off or never turns on.

 

mine is a/t i checked all the fuses earlyer today that all were fine thhe rellays i took them out and they seem to be fine 2

 

Mine is automatic as well.

For the fusible link box, the fuses are not numbered there, so I just took a guess at which ones you meant. I checked the fuses with an ohmmeter. Here's what I checked.

ECCS = 7.5 AMP - OK
ECCS 2 = 10 AMP - OK
BCM = 7.5 AMP - OK
ANTI THEFT = 7.5 AMP - OK

In the under dash fuse box, they were indeed numbered, so I didn't have to guess.

#10 STOP.L = 15 AMP - OK
#12 ELEC PARTS = 7.5 AMP - OK
#17 ENG CONT = 10 AMP - OK

 

This may take a while to figure out but I don't belive it is so complex that it cannot be solved. In the mean time here is some easy stuff to check that may help to determine the cause.

1) Please check if ASCD Hold relay is being turned on. Open the hood, turn ignition switch to on position and turn the cruise switch on and off. You should hear the ASCD hold relay clicking as you do this. Is this happening?

2) Check the condition of your ASCD brake switch and stop lamp switch. They are located above the brake pedal and are activated when you press the pedal. Just take a visual inspection make sure the switches are being activated properly.

3) When you are driving and you try to use the cruise control does the cruise indicator flash? Flashing means the system detects a malfunction.

 

Does the theft warning system go into the armed phase? Meaning that after the car is locked with the remote The security lamp will illuminate for approximately 30 seconds and then blink every 2.4 sec. I know I'm asking a lot of questions but that is to try and narrow the cause of the problem, I'm determined to figure it out.

 

Hmm, my cruise control doesn't work either, and neither does my alarm (well, sorta, I have another thread about that issue - my alarm only goes off when I open my trunk with my key)

You can try to do the troubleshooting "Mode 1" thing in the FSM. It didn't help me, but maybe it'll help you?

 

The theft warning relay is one of the only parts that is used in both the cruise control and alarm circuits. If you can swap it out with another relay of the same color/type that may help.

It's also possible that if the alarm circuit is not working properly it will prevent the cruise control circuit from working.

 

The alarm system must arm in order to go off when you "break in". To get in the armed state lock the car with the remote. The theft light should glow steady for 30 sec and then blink every 2.4 sec. this means it is armed. If you trunk or hood switch is faulty the alarm will never go into armed state and your theft light will blink steadily every 1 sec. Does your Maxima alarm system get into the armed state?

 

my cruise control did the same thing, it turned out I had a crack in the vacuum canister(black round plastic thing in the middle of your firewall)check it good cause the crack I had was small and right at the back of it so I didnt see it without taking it off, also check the vacuum hose(no cracks, and that its on good), or the control unit for it might be dead(behind the driver side strut, at the top).

 

Progress here. What your mentioned turned on light bulb for me and it seems my alarm does work. However, cruise does not. Will explain in my points below.

1. ASCD Switch is clicking when the cruise control switch is turned off and on.

2. My tail and brake lights work fine when the brake is depressed, however I'm unable to really determine anything as far as these switches go visually.

3. When the cruise is turned on via the switch, I have a solid green light on the switch itself, but nothing at all on the gauges.

4. Yes, the theft system arms. I went and hit the alarm, watched it go solid red for 30 seconds and then blinked steady every two or so seconds. HOWEVER, there was a difference when I alarmed it now and when I alarmed it last night and tested it. Last night, I had the hood open because I was under the hood looking for problems when I was arming the car. Thus, it dawned on me afer reading your post about fault hood/trunk switches that the reason it wasn't arming itself last night was because of the hood being open. So anti-theft system problem is solved.

5. Relay for the anti-theft and cruise have been swapped already at this point, however I don't believe I've swapped the relay for ASCD. However, since it passed the switch-click test, does this elimate this as a probable cause?

6. Visual inspection of the canister seems to look good as far as I can tell. I did a closer inspection of the hose and it seems to be in good condition as well. I haven't taken it off at this point though.

Thanks for the help so far guys. I've checked the FSM on this to try to get some ideas about a month ago, but I think I needed someone to hold my hand on this one to walk me through it. The cruise control troubleshooting section and all that it involved it seemed overwhelmed me somewhat.

 

A few things to test on the cruise control if you can get to the computer and plug behind the driver kick panel.

1. With the key in the IGN position, cruise control switch on, shifter in drive, and brake not depressed, test for 12V at pin 5 on (green w/ black stripe) on the cruise computer plug (connector M30). If you see 12V with these conditions, then the cruise break switch, cruise hold relay, inhibitor relay, theft warning relay, and inhibitor switch on the shifter should all be working and in the correct position for cruise to function. Shifting to P or N or removing the inhibitor relay should remove the 12V from this pin.

2. 12V should appear only when the brakes are pressed on pin 11 of M30 (red w/ green strip) of the cruise computer plug. This is a second fail-safe way to turn cruise off when the brakes are pressed.

If both items check out, then nothing is telling your cruise computer to not activate.

 

Im having the same problem. my cruise control does not work at all and my alarm goes off from the doors but my shock sensor isnt picking up anything when you bump into the car like it used to. oh and its most likely unrelated, but my lights dont blink when i unlock either.

 

Maximas don't have a shock sensor in their alarms from the factory. However, you can add one pretty easily. If it did before, then you likely have an aftermarket system.

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/infusions/...?article_id=36

I don't think the lights are supposed to blink on unlock either, only during the locking portion.

 

hmmm....i could be wrong about the shoick sensor but basically what i mean is when you bump into the car the lights flash then if you bump it again an alarm goes off. it used to be really sensitive. now it doesnt work at all.

and ya my car used to blink on unlock.....dont know if it helps but my gauges dont blink when locking/ unlocking as well.( which they used to)

 

I'm pretty sure you have an aftermarket alarm then. Lights only flash on lock on stock and the shock sensor is what will cause a reaction if your car gets bumped. There is a one stage and two stage available. The one stage will set off the alarm if there is any shock at all, a two stage will give a warning and then go into a full alarm if the activity is continued. With what you're describing, I'm nearly 100% certain you're dealing with aftermarket. Don't know enough about aftermarket ones to even being telling you where to troubleshoot... even more clueless since we don't know what model or brand.

rsmacman, are you referring to the PCM or the BCM? I'm hoping BCM because that's an easy one, but if it's the PCM... I know it's a PITA to get to, but will give it a shot.

 

well in the fusible link box its bcm....so i guess thats what youre asking. where would i find the alarm?

 

No, I was referring to where he said to test the actual computer, not the BCM relay. I know the relay is working.

As far as where your alarm would be... dunno, that all depends on who installed it. You might want to consider making a thread in the audio and electronics forum.

http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=21

Off to test the PCM now.