Ok so today i picked my car up today from tha shop i ususally take it to bcuz i had them replace my knock sensor and it came up with tha code again late last week when i ran test.... So i went to work on it myself today and realized that tha KNOCK SENSOR only had ONE wire running to tha back of my knock sensor PLUG but it seemed that it should HAVE two wires running to tha BACK of it since tha KNOCK SENSOR it self has two PRONGS inside of it??? Can anyone help me find out if it should be one OR two wires???

 

IIRC, the connector has 2 prongs and the harness only has 1 wire. (white) BTW, I think this should be in the thread.

 

Alright thanx man. Yeeah.... sorry still learning

 

correct except it kinda resembles speaker wire

 

mine looks like that too. what a pain to change without alot of blood and swearing.

 

I never said it DIDN’T look like speaker wire.

 

 

The FSM states (wh)

 

oh i see i was confused

 

jus reset the cel and if it comes back. I would get its the harness.

 

on the harness
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...Category_Code=

 

take it back to the place you got it fixed at, the sensor may be bad and it should have a warranty on it

 

when replacing the knock sensor its best to replace the knock sensor harness and all so it will be fresh and you wont have issues in the future

 

if you're a tightass like me, 470k ohm resistor works too!

 

IIRC, the harness is only like 16 USD though.

 

thats weird. try cutting the insulation back a bit and you might find the wire

 

What exactly do yo mean, and why suggest this?

 

for the knock sensor or the harness?

 

When replacing the knock sensor, it's even better to not replace until you unplug the connector and measure the resistance, this will verify any fault in the subharness or sensor (or ground, since I know nmex will mention that

It can check good and your fault could be something as simple as 87 octane.

 

you plug the resistor into the harness, in place of the knock sensor. this way you get your timing back, but then YOU have to become the knock sensor.

 

I agree, but 4th gens rarely knock. (I mean stock or lightly modified 4th gens.)

 

 

Maybe you guys can help. Im also having KS trouble...i bought a new KS from ebay got it and installed it no problem.

my CEL is still on and its showing code P0325....the KS code... MY OBD-II Scanner wont let me clear it... any suggestions?

 

try using a different scanner then. Or make sure u installed it correct first then try clearing.Nver heard of a code not wanting to be cleared.

 

Yeah I thought it was a little strange myself... I have two codes (its a 95' GLE) codes P0110 and P0325 ...(temp and KS) the temp is because i have a different intake setup (WAI) and ive always been able to clear it...

I installed it right...i just took it out and check it...i dont know why it wont clear... i just ordered a new harness.

what do you think about re-setting the whole computer?

 

Got my new KS in today. I disc. the neg terminal on the battery.
Swapped the old KS with the new KS. P0325 code is still there after 30 min drive??
Went to Autozone and cleared the code. Car seems to pull harder at lower rpms.
If the KS harness is bad will the ecu throw a p0325?? Does the ecu go into learning mode if I disconnected the bat. neg terminal??

 

Take my advice, ohmeter + fsm, I've already mentioned not only that it should be tested first but that 87 can do it.

 

You sir, don't even have to bother with the ohmeter. When there is a constant problem in the KS or circuit (ex: subharness) and the ecu never see's the correct resistance, the code will be unclearable.

 

So I'm a newbie here and I am reading a ton about the knock sensor. I have a KS code too, but I am actually hearing knock. Would a new KS actually get rid of the engine knock or should I be thinking about doing something other than replacing the KS.

I have tested the KS with an ohmmeter and it came up in the low 400s. Any suggestions?

 

so a new sub harness for the KS should solve my problems and allow my hair to grow back?

 

Ive been getting the Crank Sensor code ever since my emu install but the wires look fine and its not acting like the sensor is bad either. Happens every few hundred miles or so. Autozone to the rescue.

 

a knock sensor would probably fix the problem, because it would tell the ECU to retard the IGN timing. However, performance and mileage will suffer. I suggest getting a new KS, but also using better gas to avoid knocking and retarded timing.

 

possibly. although it doesn't necessarily HAVE to be the subharness. the problem could still be somewhere else along the line...

and? what about the suggestions already mentioned? do they not work for you? please elaborate....

or are you just starting to ***** 15 posts?

 

well im praying its the subharness lol... I cant think of any other reason my codes wont delete.

 

I too just retreived the KS code. We recently switched to Regular (drove on premium till a month back). I believe we have used two tanks of regular and now this code shows up. I have had the P0400 and the inspection time is coming up so figured I'd borrow a friend's scanner and see if I can slide through the inspections one more year (P0400) and lo and behold I have a P0400 and a P0325 the KS code.

I was able to reset it and I will fill up premium but would a couple of tanks of regular make the KS trip? If I get a new KS and use regular, will that work? Can't really afford premium at above $4 a gallon you know.

 

the KS has enough issues when running premium, it will have more issues plus low power when running regular.
I screwed up last tank and put in regular

 

just a thing to add to this...i solved my KS problem. I replaced the harness from courtesy nissan texas and replaced the KS itself for $45 shipped from ebay. I had another code that was showing..P0110 i think ...i know it was my Air temp sensor code. after fixing my temp sensor i was able to clear all of the codes and everything ran great

 

a no brainer but, make sure the harness is plugged in good. Ive seen this to be the cause of several maximas that just replaced their ks.

 

i filled up with regular once after its whole life of being premium....i paid for it... out of pocket and with bloody knuckles. Do yourself a favor, the premium gas that is an extra 20 cents a gallon...stick with it. I average 25MPG mixed driving with premium and actually get about 21-22 MPG with Reg octane. Plus its supposed to be a bit better for your engine and the enviorment. Im a poor college boy paying my way through and i can afford premium. in the end it will be cheaper to stick with 91-94 octane than being cheap and going regular.

 

I will stick to premium too. I did fill up the whole tank (it was at E) with Premium and the KS code came back. Its the original KS so I assume its bad.

I will start looking for one on the bay or online and swap it out.