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What would cause a maxima to suddenly stop pulling? (no codes)

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Old 04-26-2008, 06:50 PM
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What would cause a maxima to suddenly stop pulling? (no codes)

Knock sensor/TPS all chekced fine with Ohmmeter.

Things I've done recently:
-Reset ECU
-Hacked snorkel

-Replaced air filter with FRAM paper filter




Everything was running fine until the ECU reset I guess...but its REALLY REALLY slow now. It doesnt even pull in 2nd gear. Im thinking the engine is about to go out....*story in this thread* http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....=shadyonedeath
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Old 04-26-2008, 07:01 PM
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I've read on here in numerous places (and experienced it personally) that the ecu has to relearn after a reset. I'm sure it plays it safe as far as timing goes. It was written here that the ecu cuts timing very quickly but gives it back slowly. I have also noticed that my car is very sensitive (so it seems) to different brands of gas.
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Old 04-26-2008, 07:13 PM
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maybe a injector (ie clogged bad ect) or maybe a clogged fuel filter or a kinked fuel line(i recently ran into this problem)
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Old 04-26-2008, 07:17 PM
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ECU reset was 5 days ago, it should've relearned itself by now.

Originally Posted by locknuts
maybe a injector (ie clogged bad ect) or maybe a clogged fuel filter or a kinked fuel line(i recently ran into this problem)
-Fuel filter - New, replaced 2 months ago.
-Lines are fine.


I was thinking my spark plugs might be it also, ill give them a look. And ill pour some seafoam into my gas to clean out the injector. (or is there another way to make sure?)
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Old 04-26-2008, 08:36 PM
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mine got unplugged by accident, i was pissed my check engine light came on and 2 weeks later in went off, after about 5oo miles
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Old 04-26-2008, 08:39 PM
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Any codes?
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Old 04-26-2008, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by tigersharkdude
mine got unplugged by accident, i was pissed my check engine light came on and 2 weeks later in went off, after about 5oo miles
unplugged what?

Originally Posted by 99BlackMaxMS
Any codes?
Negative. No ghost codes either. (your car is teh sex)
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Old 04-26-2008, 10:31 PM
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just take a ohm meter to all injectors and cross refrence them with the fsm off the top of my head i think its like 10-14 ohms@ 77f
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Old 04-27-2008, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by ZX9RBART
I've read on here in numerous places (and experienced it personally) that the ecu has to relearn after a reset.
Clearing codes or the "reset" as we call it does not clear engine operating parameters it only clears stored error codes.
There's nothing to "relearn".
That information can be found in the FSM and the Haynes shop manual, chapter 6.

Originally Posted by shadyonedeath
Im thinking the engine is about to go out....*story in this thread* http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....=shadyonedeath
Read and listen to his previous thread.

I think you need to start shopping for another motor.
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Old 04-27-2008, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
Clearing codes or the "reset" as we call it does not clear engine operating parameters it only clears stored error codes.
There's nothing to "relearn".
I must have misunderstood then, I use an elm interface with my laptop for code checking and it warns me before erasing codes that all parameters will be reset and drivability will suffer until they are relearned.
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Old 04-27-2008, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by shadyonedeath
Negative. No ghost codes either. (your car is teh sex)
Damn, well after reading your other thread, the knocking noise you mentioned could as simple as the injectors. I would first start by pulling each coilpack and checking the spark plugs. A fellow .org member's 3.0 recently ate the electrode off one of the spark plugs, causing a ticking noise and a misfire on that specific cylinder. I doubt that this is your problem, but it takes all of 5 minutes to check the coils.

If those are good, find someone who just did a VI swap and has a spare 4th gen LIM with the injectors and fuel rails and just do a direct swap on (pull the UIM and swap LIM's). Or if you are going to be doing a VI swap, just use the 5th gen LIM and do the complete swap.

It is relatively easy and not too costly, so I would at least give it a go before worrying about engine internals (ie, valves, head, etc.). Good luck.

And thanks for the compliment
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Old 04-27-2008, 08:42 AM
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Hmm, really really lame power like this tends to remind me of what happens when you have a clogged catalytic converter....

One thing that can sometimes be done is to drive the car relatively hard late at night, then pull into a pitch black garage or parking lot or something, and if the cat is really clogged that bad, it will sometimes glow red.
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Old 04-27-2008, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by 99BlackMaxMS
Damn, well after reading your other thread, the knocking noise you mentioned could as simple as the injectors. I would first start by pulling each coilpack and checking the spark plugs. A fellow .org member's 3.0 recently ate the electrode off one of the spark plugs, causing a ticking noise and a misfire on that specific cylinder. I doubt that this is your problem, but it takes all of 5 minutes to check the coils.

If those are good, find someone who just did a VI swap and has a spare 4th gen LIM with the injectors and fuel rails and just do a direct swap on (pull the UIM and swap LIM's). Or if you are going to be doing a VI swap, just use the 5th gen LIM and do the complete swap.

It is relatively easy and not too costly, so I would at least give it a go before worrying about engine internals (ie, valves, head, etc.). Good luck.

And thanks for the compliment

I checked the front 3 spark plugs last night, they looked fine to me. A little brown on the tips, but thats normal right?

How do i check the injectors?
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Old 04-27-2008, 12:11 PM
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see post #8
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Old 04-27-2008, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by locknuts
see post #8
k thanks
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Old 04-27-2008, 12:21 PM
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also take like a peice of wood and use it as a stethascope to see if you can hear it while the engine is running and the rears require you to take off the upper manifold.(i am in the same process with my max )
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Old 04-27-2008, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by locknuts
also take like a peice of wood and use it as a stethascope to see if you can hear it while the engine is running and the rears require you to take off the upper manifold.(i am in the same process with my max )
wut?


I checked the injectors while it was on and it read from 45-50 ohms
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Old 04-27-2008, 01:38 PM
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or whatever you can use to hear the clicking while the engine is running ie screwdriver or a 1\2" extension or a peice of wood then put your ear at the end of these to see if you can hear the clicking

Last edited by Product_Of_Korea; 04-27-2008 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 04-27-2008, 02:08 PM
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put it where? On top of the engine?
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Old 04-27-2008, 03:07 PM
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wherever u think the noise is coming from, this amplifies the sound through the object u are using, giving u an idea where the noise is coming from.
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Old 04-27-2008, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by vilmaxima
wherever u think the noise is coming from, this amplifies the sound through the object u are using, giving u an idea where the noise is coming from.
thank you for the claification. what im saying when your testing out your injectors. with the engine running put your screwdriver on top of the injector and listen to see if the injector is clicking to make sure that it is operating. or alternativly you can unplug the sensor and put a 12v source to it and see if it clicks as well. do the listening along with testing the ohms on the injector

Last edited by Product_Of_Korea; 04-27-2008 at 05:31 PM.
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Old 04-30-2008, 05:14 PM
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Could it be the tranny? I dont know how the tranny is connected to the engine but could it be its not catching whatever the engine is putting out? Cuz I can red line my engine on Neutral for a good amount of time and it still sounds like its doing its job.
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Old 04-30-2008, 06:22 PM
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5 speed or auto?
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Old 04-30-2008, 08:02 PM
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auto
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Old 05-01-2008, 06:17 AM
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is the tranny slipping when changing gears? when your freeway driving and lets say you punch it at 3k the rpms will go up but does it seem like you dont acclerate for a moment?
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