Knock sensor/TPS all chekced fine with Ohmmeter.

Things I've done recently:
-Reset ECU
-Hacked snorkel

-Replaced air filter with FRAM paper filter




Everything was running fine until the ECU reset I guess...but its REALLY REALLY slow now. It doesnt even pull in 2nd gear. Im thinking the engine is about to go out....*story in this thread* http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....=shadyonedeath

 

I've read on here in numerous places (and experienced it personally) that the ecu has to relearn after a reset. I'm sure it plays it safe as far as timing goes. It was written here that the ecu cuts timing very quickly but gives it back slowly. I have also noticed that my car is very sensitive (so it seems) to different brands of gas.

 

maybe a injector (ie clogged bad ect) or maybe a clogged fuel filter or a kinked fuel line(i recently ran into this problem)

 

ECU reset was 5 days ago, it should've relearned itself by now.

-Fuel filter - New, replaced 2 months ago.
-Lines are fine.


I was thinking my spark plugs might be it also, ill give them a look. And ill pour some seafoam into my gas to clean out the injector. (or is there another way to make sure?)

 

mine got unplugged by accident, i was pissed my check engine light came on and 2 weeks later in went off, after about 5oo miles

 

Any codes?

 

unplugged what?

Negative. No ghost codes either. (your car is teh sex)

 

just take a ohm meter to all injectors and cross refrence them with the fsm off the top of my head i think its like 10-14 ohms@ 77f

 

Clearing codes or the "reset" as we call it does not clear engine operating parameters it only clears stored error codes.
There's nothing to "relearn".
That information can be found in the FSM and the Haynes shop manual, chapter 6.

Read and listen to his previous thread.

I think you need to start shopping for another motor.

 

I must have misunderstood then, I use an elm interface with my laptop for code checking and it warns me before erasing codes that all parameters will be reset and drivability will suffer until they are relearned.

 

Damn, well after reading your other thread, the knocking noise you mentioned could as simple as the injectors. I would first start by pulling each coilpack and checking the spark plugs. A fellow .org member's 3.0 recently ate the electrode off one of the spark plugs, causing a ticking noise and a misfire on that specific cylinder. I doubt that this is your problem, but it takes all of 5 minutes to check the coils.

If those are good, find someone who just did a VI swap and has a spare 4th gen LIM with the injectors and fuel rails and just do a direct swap on (pull the UIM and swap LIM's). Or if you are going to be doing a VI swap, just use the 5th gen LIM and do the complete swap.

It is relatively easy and not too costly, so I would at least give it a go before worrying about engine internals (ie, valves, head, etc.). Good luck.

And thanks for the compliment

 

Hmm, really really lame power like this tends to remind me of what happens when you have a clogged catalytic converter....

One thing that can sometimes be done is to drive the car relatively hard late at night, then pull into a pitch black garage or parking lot or something, and if the cat is really clogged that bad, it will sometimes glow red.

 

I checked the front 3 spark plugs last night, they looked fine to me. A little brown on the tips, but thats normal right?

How do i check the injectors?

 

see post #8

 

k thanks

 

also take like a peice of wood and use it as a stethascope to see if you can hear it while the engine is running and the rears require you to take off the upper manifold.(i am in the same process with my max )

 

wut?


I checked the injectors while it was on and it read from 45-50 ohms

 

or whatever you can use to hear the clicking while the engine is running ie screwdriver or a 1\2" extension or a peice of wood then put your ear at the end of these to see if you can hear the clicking

 

put it where? On top of the engine?

 

wherever u think the noise is coming from, this amplifies the sound through the object u are using, giving u an idea where the noise is coming from.

 

thank you for the claification. what im saying when your testing out your injectors. with the engine running put your screwdriver on top of the injector and listen to see if the injector is clicking to make sure that it is operating. or alternativly you can unplug the sensor and put a 12v source to it and see if it clicks as well. do the listening along with testing the ohms on the injector

 

Could it be the tranny? I dont know how the tranny is connected to the engine but could it be its not catching whatever the engine is putting out? Cuz I can red line my engine on Neutral for a good amount of time and it still sounds like its doing its job.

 

5 speed or auto?

 

auto

 

is the tranny slipping when changing gears? when your freeway driving and lets say you punch it at 3k the rpms will go up but does it seem like you dont acclerate for a moment?