4TH GEN GURUs!!! - still have WARM CRANKING ISSUES.....please help $$$ reward
05-05-2008, 09:21 AM
#1
wants an I35
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4TH GEN GURUs!!! - still have WARM CRANKING ISSUES.....please help $$$ reward
this is a continuation of a post i made a couple of weeks back, but i have some new suggestions, plus i wanted to give a better overall picture and more accurate description of the problem.
and this is a 1997 GLE with 48k and an auto tranny.
THE EFFECT:
--> if i leave my car parked overnight, or the 9 hours i spend at work, and i come out to start it, it starts fine. by fine i mean the car ignites quickly, catches quickly, and the RPMs shoot up to the normal starting parameters (~1200-1500). i refer to this as a "strong" start.
--> if i drive my car around for 30 minutes or so, and then turn it off and leave it for 15 minutes, and then come back to start it, it starts VERY VERY weakly. by this i mean that the car ignites quickly, and it catches, but the RPMs sputter around 200-300 for about a full second before going up to the ~1200 mark.
this causes the car to shake a bit.
twice, in the three weeks this has been going on, the RPMs sputtered around the 200-300 mark before just giving out and stalling the car (it almost seems like this is a power issue [starter/alternator/grounding], but i dont understand why it would only happen when the engine is warm).
--> if i drive my car around for 30 minutes or so, and then turn it off and turn it back on immediately, it will start perfectly fine, as if the engine was cold.
THE CAUSE:
**some of this stuff may be inconsequential, because we found whatever problem it was and fixed it, but i figured i would include it in case it could have caused another problem that im not thinking of.
three weekends ago i spent the day at a Nissan dealership (with an org member who works there) installing the following:
a) NWP Thermal Intake Spacer Kit (one throttle body spacer, two lower intake spacers and one plenum gasket spacer)
b) Budget Y Pipe
c) Replaced Valve Cover Gaskets
and then some other random things:
d) Replaced Rotors
e) Replaced Charcoal Cannister and Valve (to get rid of my CEL)
f) Flushed Brake Fluid
g) Tranny Drain/Fill
initially, after the 7 hours of labor was complete, when we tried to start the car up, the idle was very erratic and jumpy. we discovered that in the process of redrilling those brackets, and putting the IM back on, the EGR gasket slipped a little and allowed a leak. we removed the IM again, redrilled the brackets and corrected the problem. the idle was normal once again.
the next few days, i began to notice that when i was sitting at a red light, my RPMs would be at 600-650 and then drop down to 550 and 500 and make the whole car shake and rumble. i would have to give it gas to get it to sit back normally (this was from a plenum gasket leak, but i didnt know it at this point).
also in that same week after the big install, i was driving on the highway going about 70-75 and i decided it was time to test out the new bolt-ons. i gunned it past a slow moving car on my right, jumping from about 75mph to 85mph in a matter of seconds and my CEL light suddenly appeared.
i drove to Autozone the next day and had it read: code 0707 or P0136, which is the rear bank 02 sensor (the one behind the main cat).
i drove back to the dealership the next weekend and i told him that i was having idle issues when in D, plus my CEL popped on for an 02 sensor. he tested the NWP plenum gasket for leaks, and found one right in the front. it was fixed, and so was the idle at red lights, however my 02 sensor code which i attributed to the leak, DID come back after clearing the codes.
he plugged my car into the Nissan Consult and it read EVERYTHING as perfectly normal, including the so-called "faulty" 02 sensor that was tripping the CEL. we had it run a variety of diagnostic programs on the engine, both while i was driving and while it was at idle - everything came back as nomal.
he actually had an extra 02 sensor laying around, so he figured we could just swap the two and see if the new one would end up with the same problem. he put my car up on the lift again and went to unscrew the rear 02 only to learn that it had been rusted into the bung, and that removing it ran the risk of stripping the threads and having to replace the whole section.
he suggested trying to find that main cat + rear 02 bung used off an org member/junk yard. obviously, we had to hold off on that experiment.
AS IT STANDS NOW:
i know ive read and heard from a variety of org members that sometimes adding an aftermarket y pipe can cause the 02 sensor to malfunction because so much extra air is now hitting it. then again, some of you drive around with your Y pipe with no CEL problems at all.
regardless, i just learned what an 02 simulator does and will plan on getting one if i cant figure out how to make this rear 02 stop reading as faulty.
anyway, i have no more idle issues, the car seems to drive fine, except i still have this starting issue, and i still am looking at this 0707 CEL all the time.
would a faulty rear 02 sensor cause this weird starting problem? why would it only happen when its warm? exhaust gases?
what i dont want is to spend money on a new rear bung/new rear 02 sensor and have this problem re-occur, in case there is actually something CAUSING the rear 02 sensor to read as faulty or in case this isnt even the problem to begin with.
im pretty ****ing pissed that ive spent this much already......
THE SUGGESTIONS:
im still not sure if this is from the Y pipe or spacer kit, or a combination of the two.
these are the suggestions ive gotten, both from org members and local people:
1) ECTS (engine coolant temperature sensor). this would most likely be throwing a code if it was broken, plus it would be pretty strange for this to coincidentally break on the same day i was putting all this aftermarket stuff on. the nissan mechanic who did this stuff with me said hes never seen one fail in over a decade.
2) Exhaust gases getting caught in the pipes (this is from the Autozone employee). basically, now that i have a high-flow y pipe, but the rest of my exhaust stock, the exhaust is getting caught up around the main cat and choking my car. this would make sense, because only when the car is warm would gases still be in there (when its cold, the gases have had time to dissipate) but, ive heard from a number of maxima owners who say they used an aftermarket Y with stock exhaust and had no problems.
3) Fouled Spark Plugs (from a guy i work with). he said when the car is warm, the oil is still consolidating down at the bottom of the crankcase, so its possible they saturate one or two of the plugs. when the engine is cold, all the oil has settled, and leaves all the plugs free to fire.
this doesnt really make that much sense, because a fouled plug is a fouled plug, and i would get starting issues all the time.
he said either that, or some kind of sensor issue.
4) two org members have said Bad Coil Packs, but this would cause misfiring right? and why would the start issue just happen when the engine is warm if one of the coils was bad all the time?
5) Grounding Issue. the org member that helped me with all these installs thinks that putting the spacers in has somehow eliminated a ground for the engine. he thinks that the upper IM and lower IM, that were touching before the spacer kit, ground off each other, and now that there is a plastic 1/4 spacer between them, they can no longer do that.
we ran a jerry-rigged grounding kit from the ECM grounds to the neg battery terminal (actually to try to fix the weird 02 code), but that hasnt done much. he said he would try grounding the bottom of the oil reservoir to the tranny case as well.
but why would this only happen when the engine is warm?
and then there are about 20 other org members with these spacers and no grounding problems.
6) Starter is dying from exhaust gases. Essential1 (a local org member who works at an autoshop) met me this weekend to check out the problem first hand. he seemed pretty sure it was the starter on its way out, but that doesnt explain why my car only has these weak starts when its warm.
he mentioned something about exhaust gases corrupting the starting solenoid, and that i would need to replace the starter alltogether, we well as put some sort of gas shield over the new starter solenoid. but if this is actually the problem, and my y pipe is spewing exhaust onto my starter, i dont want to just go replace the starter again - because in 6-12 months ill just have the same problem....
CONCLUSION:
im sorry this is so long, but i am ****ing stumped here. no one seems to be able to figure this out.
and quite frankly, knowing what i know now, and how much money ive dumped into these "bolt-on" mods, i would NEVER have done it.
the added power is no where near worth all these problems. i would have thought for 800 plus dollars of experimentation, i would be making my car stronger and faster, but it has made it weak and tempermental, for not that much more hp.
im pissed. i should have just left it stock.
and this is a 1997 GLE with 48k and an auto tranny.
THE EFFECT:
--> if i leave my car parked overnight, or the 9 hours i spend at work, and i come out to start it, it starts fine. by fine i mean the car ignites quickly, catches quickly, and the RPMs shoot up to the normal starting parameters (~1200-1500). i refer to this as a "strong" start.
--> if i drive my car around for 30 minutes or so, and then turn it off and leave it for 15 minutes, and then come back to start it, it starts VERY VERY weakly. by this i mean that the car ignites quickly, and it catches, but the RPMs sputter around 200-300 for about a full second before going up to the ~1200 mark.
this causes the car to shake a bit.
twice, in the three weeks this has been going on, the RPMs sputtered around the 200-300 mark before just giving out and stalling the car (it almost seems like this is a power issue [starter/alternator/grounding], but i dont understand why it would only happen when the engine is warm).
--> if i drive my car around for 30 minutes or so, and then turn it off and turn it back on immediately, it will start perfectly fine, as if the engine was cold.
THE CAUSE:
**some of this stuff may be inconsequential, because we found whatever problem it was and fixed it, but i figured i would include it in case it could have caused another problem that im not thinking of.
three weekends ago i spent the day at a Nissan dealership (with an org member who works there) installing the following:
a) NWP Thermal Intake Spacer Kit (one throttle body spacer, two lower intake spacers and one plenum gasket spacer)
b) Budget Y Pipe
c) Replaced Valve Cover Gaskets
and then some other random things:
d) Replaced Rotors
e) Replaced Charcoal Cannister and Valve (to get rid of my CEL)
f) Flushed Brake Fluid
g) Tranny Drain/Fill
initially, after the 7 hours of labor was complete, when we tried to start the car up, the idle was very erratic and jumpy. we discovered that in the process of redrilling those brackets, and putting the IM back on, the EGR gasket slipped a little and allowed a leak. we removed the IM again, redrilled the brackets and corrected the problem. the idle was normal once again.
the next few days, i began to notice that when i was sitting at a red light, my RPMs would be at 600-650 and then drop down to 550 and 500 and make the whole car shake and rumble. i would have to give it gas to get it to sit back normally (this was from a plenum gasket leak, but i didnt know it at this point).
also in that same week after the big install, i was driving on the highway going about 70-75 and i decided it was time to test out the new bolt-ons. i gunned it past a slow moving car on my right, jumping from about 75mph to 85mph in a matter of seconds and my CEL light suddenly appeared.
i drove to Autozone the next day and had it read: code 0707 or P0136, which is the rear bank 02 sensor (the one behind the main cat).
i drove back to the dealership the next weekend and i told him that i was having idle issues when in D, plus my CEL popped on for an 02 sensor. he tested the NWP plenum gasket for leaks, and found one right in the front. it was fixed, and so was the idle at red lights, however my 02 sensor code which i attributed to the leak, DID come back after clearing the codes.
he plugged my car into the Nissan Consult and it read EVERYTHING as perfectly normal, including the so-called "faulty" 02 sensor that was tripping the CEL. we had it run a variety of diagnostic programs on the engine, both while i was driving and while it was at idle - everything came back as nomal.
he actually had an extra 02 sensor laying around, so he figured we could just swap the two and see if the new one would end up with the same problem. he put my car up on the lift again and went to unscrew the rear 02 only to learn that it had been rusted into the bung, and that removing it ran the risk of stripping the threads and having to replace the whole section.
he suggested trying to find that main cat + rear 02 bung used off an org member/junk yard. obviously, we had to hold off on that experiment.
AS IT STANDS NOW:
i know ive read and heard from a variety of org members that sometimes adding an aftermarket y pipe can cause the 02 sensor to malfunction because so much extra air is now hitting it. then again, some of you drive around with your Y pipe with no CEL problems at all.
regardless, i just learned what an 02 simulator does and will plan on getting one if i cant figure out how to make this rear 02 stop reading as faulty.
anyway, i have no more idle issues, the car seems to drive fine, except i still have this starting issue, and i still am looking at this 0707 CEL all the time.
would a faulty rear 02 sensor cause this weird starting problem? why would it only happen when its warm? exhaust gases?
what i dont want is to spend money on a new rear bung/new rear 02 sensor and have this problem re-occur, in case there is actually something CAUSING the rear 02 sensor to read as faulty or in case this isnt even the problem to begin with.
im pretty ****ing pissed that ive spent this much already......
THE SUGGESTIONS:
im still not sure if this is from the Y pipe or spacer kit, or a combination of the two.
these are the suggestions ive gotten, both from org members and local people:
1) ECTS (engine coolant temperature sensor). this would most likely be throwing a code if it was broken, plus it would be pretty strange for this to coincidentally break on the same day i was putting all this aftermarket stuff on. the nissan mechanic who did this stuff with me said hes never seen one fail in over a decade.
2) Exhaust gases getting caught in the pipes (this is from the Autozone employee). basically, now that i have a high-flow y pipe, but the rest of my exhaust stock, the exhaust is getting caught up around the main cat and choking my car. this would make sense, because only when the car is warm would gases still be in there (when its cold, the gases have had time to dissipate) but, ive heard from a number of maxima owners who say they used an aftermarket Y with stock exhaust and had no problems.
3) Fouled Spark Plugs (from a guy i work with). he said when the car is warm, the oil is still consolidating down at the bottom of the crankcase, so its possible they saturate one or two of the plugs. when the engine is cold, all the oil has settled, and leaves all the plugs free to fire.
this doesnt really make that much sense, because a fouled plug is a fouled plug, and i would get starting issues all the time.
he said either that, or some kind of sensor issue.
4) two org members have said Bad Coil Packs, but this would cause misfiring right? and why would the start issue just happen when the engine is warm if one of the coils was bad all the time?
5) Grounding Issue. the org member that helped me with all these installs thinks that putting the spacers in has somehow eliminated a ground for the engine. he thinks that the upper IM and lower IM, that were touching before the spacer kit, ground off each other, and now that there is a plastic 1/4 spacer between them, they can no longer do that.
we ran a jerry-rigged grounding kit from the ECM grounds to the neg battery terminal (actually to try to fix the weird 02 code), but that hasnt done much. he said he would try grounding the bottom of the oil reservoir to the tranny case as well.
but why would this only happen when the engine is warm?
and then there are about 20 other org members with these spacers and no grounding problems.
6) Starter is dying from exhaust gases. Essential1 (a local org member who works at an autoshop) met me this weekend to check out the problem first hand. he seemed pretty sure it was the starter on its way out, but that doesnt explain why my car only has these weak starts when its warm.
he mentioned something about exhaust gases corrupting the starting solenoid, and that i would need to replace the starter alltogether, we well as put some sort of gas shield over the new starter solenoid. but if this is actually the problem, and my y pipe is spewing exhaust onto my starter, i dont want to just go replace the starter again - because in 6-12 months ill just have the same problem....
CONCLUSION:
im sorry this is so long, but i am ****ing stumped here. no one seems to be able to figure this out.
and quite frankly, knowing what i know now, and how much money ive dumped into these "bolt-on" mods, i would NEVER have done it.
the added power is no where near worth all these problems. i would have thought for 800 plus dollars of experimentation, i would be making my car stronger and faster, but it has made it weak and tempermental, for not that much more hp.
im pissed. i should have just left it stock.
05-05-2008, 11:25 AM
#2
my 98 recently had the identical problem starting only when warm. Fired right up in the morning though. I followed the ground from the battery and noticed it was quite green where the body ground is tapped into it. I ran an 8 awg wire from the battery to the starter bolt and much to my surprise it has started perfectly for over a week now. (first read about the grounds on here) last but not least the reason it changes with the temp is because resistance of any circuit is greatly influenced by temp and humidity.
05-05-2008, 11:39 AM
#3
wants an I35
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hey man thanks for the input.
you didnt happen to have a spacer kit or anything else that would interfere with your grounds did you?
did this just happen suddenly or was it gradual?
did it get worse or just stay the same?
you didnt happen to have a spacer kit or anything else that would interfere with your grounds did you?
did this just happen suddenly or was it gradual?
did it get worse or just stay the same?
05-05-2008, 12:05 PM
#5
Rockart, there is so much bad info in your leads from friends, mechanics, Autozone employees, I don't know where to begin..... Don't dismiss your #1 suggestion just yet.
Whoever installed your Spacer kit did a poor job btw.....
Was the IACV removed/reinstalled during installation of the spacer kit/tampered with by chance?
05-05-2008, 12:08 PM
#6
lol, i don't see how the KS would affect starting.
I've been battling the same problem. Replacing the ECTS sensor & adding extra grounds seemed to have solved the problem in the summer, but it came back during the winter. People have also suggested the FPR to be the culprit.
I think i'll report on any progress when my car comes back from the shop. I've asked them to replace the starter, clean the grounds and run a fresh ground from the starter bolt to the tranny. We'll see how that goes.
PS, i've also heard of grounding loss due to plastic spacers, since a lot of things are grounded to the IM.
I've been battling the same problem. Replacing the ECTS sensor & adding extra grounds seemed to have solved the problem in the summer, but it came back during the winter. People have also suggested the FPR to be the culprit.
I think i'll report on any progress when my car comes back from the shop. I've asked them to replace the starter, clean the grounds and run a fresh ground from the starter bolt to the tranny. We'll see how that goes.
PS, i've also heard of grounding loss due to plastic spacers, since a lot of things are grounded to the IM.
05-05-2008, 12:27 PM
#7
wants an I35
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in his defense, this guy has owned and been working on 4th gens since 1999.
he has been a mechanic at this Nissan dealership since 2001, and now has risen to the "grand master" level, meaning he is flown around the country by Nissan USA to attend seminars/lectures concerning new models (such as the upcoming GT-r). he is the top mechanic at the dealership and been a member of the org since 03 or 04.
anyway, what makes you say that he did a poor job? just because of the IM leak?
yo its funny u mention the IACV. no we didnt mess with it at all (other than removing the electrical clips), BUT when i put my head down into the engine while its running, i hear a WHISLING/SQUEELING that sounds like its coming from the TB or IACV. its not drastic, but its definetly noticeable.
so lets say thats a leak.....that wouldnt cause a warm starting issue only right?
wouldnt that have the same affect as the IM leak?
he has been a mechanic at this Nissan dealership since 2001, and now has risen to the "grand master" level, meaning he is flown around the country by Nissan USA to attend seminars/lectures concerning new models (such as the upcoming GT-r). he is the top mechanic at the dealership and been a member of the org since 03 or 04.
anyway, what makes you say that he did a poor job? just because of the IM leak?
so lets say thats a leak.....that wouldnt cause a warm starting issue only right?
wouldnt that have the same affect as the IM leak?
Last edited by ROCKART; 05-05-2008 at 12:39 PM.
05-05-2008, 01:17 PM
#8
about your rear o2 sensor code... just get an o2 sim. Solves your problem... simple and cheap. Ive had the same code (rear o2), got an o2 sim put on, and have not seen a code since, its awesome. I believe they went up in price but when I bought mine is was only 25 bucks.
05-05-2008, 01:19 PM
#9
wants an I35
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yea but i still will run into the rusted sensor thats in there currently. i will need to replace that section with the 02 bung before i can start fcking with it.
u get urs off www.o2sim.com ?
which one did you get? the universal one?
or is there one made for 4th gens?
is there any downside to an o2 sim in that rear bank?
u get urs off www.o2sim.com ?
which one did you get? the universal one?
or is there one made for 4th gens?
is there any downside to an o2 sim in that rear bank?
Last edited by ROCKART; 05-05-2008 at 01:21 PM.
05-05-2008, 01:34 PM
#10
05-05-2008, 01:38 PM
#12
yea but i still will run into the rusted sensor thats in there currently. i will need to replace that section with the 02 bung before i can start fcking with it.
u get urs off www.o2sim.com ?
which one did you get? the universal one?
or is there one made for 4th gens?
is there any downside to an o2 sim in that rear bank?
u get urs off www.o2sim.com ?
which one did you get? the universal one?
or is there one made for 4th gens?
is there any downside to an o2 sim in that rear bank?
Yes thats where i bought mine from... it was cheaper and looked different then the ones I c on the site now... but I did buy a universal one.
No downside to having an o2 sim for the o2 behind the cat.
05-05-2008, 01:40 PM
#13
wants an I35
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in the course of about 2 seconds:
it goes from 0 to 100-300 and jumps around there, and then goes up the 1200range.
05-05-2008, 01:46 PM
#15
I c... i dunno then. Long shot here but have you cleaned ur throttle body recently? What kinda intake do you have?
05-05-2008, 02:18 PM
#17
I've only had the car a few months and when i bought it it was cold outside. It got worse as the weather warmed but the ground wire i added instantly cured the problem. One of these days I will take my ground off and solder the ends as i just crimped them to see if it was going to work.
05-05-2008, 04:26 PM
#18
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I think It's proballay the ECTS because when your car Is cold the car starts up immediatly,now the car warms and the temps are extremelly hot and this might cause a slight hesitation to get it started and this might kick the car in the safe mode. I am trying to see If the starter sillinoid can also be the cause of this because of the heat that is proballay melting the platic parts and the wires. I would definetly check the ECTS and If that does not work try the starter soilinoid. Good luck.
05-05-2008, 04:53 PM
#19
I got the same codes you did rear sensor and EVAP control...I think you have a leak in EVAP hoses even a slight cut that you cant notice and it triggers a rear sensor code with it also. Just fixed the problem myself and out of the black orb from EVAP you can hear the leak. I have a good rear sensor because I bought new sensor and wrapped in aluminium foil like the other org members in previous posts stated. Check that leaking hose it is your problem. Once the hose is changed the CEL goes off instant.
05-05-2008, 07:35 PM
#20
Rocky,.....thought we agreed on taking off what was installed some weeks ago and see if it helps first. I seriously think this is the best way man.Your car was excellent at the meet, i cant understand why so many questions about it now.
05-05-2008, 11:44 PM
#22
Ive seen this problem attributed to improper Crankcase ventilation, Has your PCV been changed? Hose in good condition? Breather hose that attaches to the both the IACV and valve cover, make sure there in perfect working order, no craks etc..... hopefully its that simple
Last edited by 91parkave; 05-06-2008 at 12:01 AM.
05-06-2008, 07:24 AM
#23
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Kill duece avian's with one rockart. Remove the battery, battery tray, and starter. Pull the selenoid off of the starter by removing the bolts/screws and prying or tapping gently, noting the orientation of the spring and pin and everything elsse that falls everywhere instantly, lol's. Using brake cleaner/rags/compressed air clean all of the moving parts associated with the throwout mechanism, ie the arm & hook, gear, and shaft etc. Than lube all of those parts with high-temp grease, I prefer to use the disc brake stuff that is old and metallicy looking and smells weird (has lots of moly in it). Reassemble.
Part two: Clean all of the connections on the starter, as well as the starter itself where the flange contacts the bellhousing. Clean the bellhousing part also. Than add an extra ground from your starter to under your battery tray, while there clean up that ground as well and clean both battery terminals. This is just preventative maintenance as I see this cause alot of problems. Just fixed a no-start the other day (click than nothing) because of a bad connection on the selenoid. Suprisingly maxima starters are pretty bulletproof and I think alot of people replace them not knowing that it was only a poor connection,. Anyways I'm rambling.
I've seen the same problem (identical symptoms) caused by the selenoid arm getting stuck, allthough it was always accompanied by a weird sound, which makes me think you might have something else going on. I like the suggestion to pay close attention to the fuel lines and fuel filter.
Part two: Clean all of the connections on the starter, as well as the starter itself where the flange contacts the bellhousing. Clean the bellhousing part also. Than add an extra ground from your starter to under your battery tray, while there clean up that ground as well and clean both battery terminals. This is just preventative maintenance as I see this cause alot of problems. Just fixed a no-start the other day (click than nothing) because of a bad connection on the selenoid. Suprisingly maxima starters are pretty bulletproof and I think alot of people replace them not knowing that it was only a poor connection,. Anyways I'm rambling.
I've seen the same problem (identical symptoms) caused by the selenoid arm getting stuck, allthough it was always accompanied by a weird sound, which makes me think you might have something else going on. I like the suggestion to pay close attention to the fuel lines and fuel filter.
05-06-2008, 07:33 AM
#24
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why would this all have started happening right after the spacer/y pipe install?
thats what i dont get.
and if it was a fuel delivery issue, why wouldnt it happen when the car is cold?
why only when warm?
thats what i dont get.
and if it was a fuel delivery issue, why wouldnt it happen when the car is cold?
why only when warm?
05-06-2008, 07:50 AM
#25
Could be a coincidence, but I doubt it.
05-06-2008, 09:16 AM
#26
The spacer has nothing to do with it, If anything with the add'l Plenum volume you now have, Your IACV is having a hard time keeeping up when the motor gets warm. Do the good old IACV clean, maybe bump the Idle up just a tad, and see if it makes a diffrence, im sure it will.
05-06-2008, 09:23 AM
#27
It could just be the starter. With the added Y-pipe there is more heat and when the starter is hot it doesn't work as good. I would take it off (only takes about 10 min.) and take it to advance auto(not autozone) to test it, there bench test has a little more detail. If you where closer i have a spare starter i would say try mine to see if the problem is still there.
05-06-2008, 09:30 AM
#28
The spacer has nothing to do with it, If anything with the add'l Plenum volume you now have, Your IACV is having a hard time keeeping up when the motor gets warm. Do the good old IACV clean, maybe bump the Idle up just a tad, and see if it makes a diffrence, im sure it will.
05-06-2008, 10:07 AM
#29
wants an I35
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It could just be the starter. With the added Y-pipe there is more heat and when the starter is hot it doesn't work as good. I would take it off (only takes about 10 min.) and take it to advance auto(not autozone) to test it, there bench test has a little more detail. If you where closer i have a spare starter i would say try mine to see if the problem is still there.
i got plenty of tools but no jacks or stands.
i got no problem driving down there - only like 30 mins tops
05-07-2008, 11:44 AM
#31
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Delray Beach, FL
Posts: 3,284
can someon please confirm that this is the EXACT PRODUCT i need to get rid of my CEL. is there anything else im forgetting?
http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php...&products_id=9
i just cut the o2 harness and wire this in place?
is that correct?
http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php...&products_id=9
i just cut the o2 harness and wire this in place?
is that correct?
05-08-2008, 07:58 AM
#32
wants an I35
Thread Starter
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Delray Beach, FL
Posts: 3,284
can someon please confirm that this is the EXACT PRODUCT i need to get rid of my CEL. is there anything else im forgetting?
http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php...&products_id=9
i just cut the o2 harness and wire this in place?
is that correct?
http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php...&products_id=9
i just cut the o2 harness and wire this in place?
is that correct?
05-08-2008, 08:14 AM
#33
can someon please confirm that this is the EXACT PRODUCT i need to get rid of my CEL. is there anything else im forgetting?
http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php...&products_id=9
i just cut the o2 harness and wire this in place?
is that correct?
http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php...&products_id=9
i just cut the o2 harness and wire this in place?
is that correct?
I do recall the 3 wires. To be 100% get under the car and check how many wires are coming out of the stock o2. I am pretty sure there is 3. Power, Ground, and signal... i think. But, I am pretty sure that is exactly what you need. Then just splice into the existing wires. Your car is FED spec right?
05-08-2008, 09:22 AM
#34
Yeah I think so... lol, sorry mines been in my car for so long I am not 100% sure.
I do recall the 3 wires. To be 100% get under the car and check how many wires are coming out of the stock o2. I am pretty sure there is 3. Power, Ground, and signal... i think. But, I am pretty sure that is exactly what you need. Then just splice into the existing wires. Your car is FED spec right?
I do recall the 3 wires. To be 100% get under the car and check how many wires are coming out of the stock o2. I am pretty sure there is 3. Power, Ground, and signal... i think. But, I am pretty sure that is exactly what you need. Then just splice into the existing wires. Your car is FED spec right?
05-08-2008, 01:00 PM
#37
It is 4 wires and it is under the drivers seat. I replaced with new O2 sensor and wrapped in aluminium foil and left under seat but use good thick quality foil and a lot of it it gets really hot and never worry about again. Also some have bolted underneath to avoid heat but I dont want the wires to be exposed to weather. So I left inside also I left old O2 in bung with old wires taped to under car for inspection purposes.
05-08-2008, 01:04 PM
#38
wants an I35
Thread Starter
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Delray Beach, FL
Posts: 3,284
so................................................ ...........................
this is exactly what i need right?
http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php...&products_id=9
this is exactly what i need right?
http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php...&products_id=9
05-08-2008, 01:21 PM
#39
so................................................ ...........................
this is exactly what i need right?
http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php...&products_id=9
this is exactly what i need right?
http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php...&products_id=9
splice power and ground wires... cut signal and attach to o2 sim signal wire.
05-08-2008, 01:21 PM
#40
The spacer has nothing to do with it, If anything with the add'l Plenum volume you now have, Your IACV is having a hard time keeeping up when the motor gets warm. Do the good old IACV clean, maybe bump the Idle up just a tad, and see if it makes a diffrence, im sure it will.
Agreed. It won't help the problem at hand.
so................................................ ...........................
this is exactly what i need right?
http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php...&products_id=9
this is exactly what i need right?
http://www.o2simulator.com/index.php...&products_id=9
BTW, you don't cut off the O2 sensor completely. Only one wire gets cut,two wires get hijacked, one is left alone. It should come with instructions.
