Timing Chain job cost $2,700
06-10-2008 | 06:52 AM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Im in the SF Bay Area, "Kalifornia". Im a Nissan Factory Service Tech, been workin in Nissans for almost 5 years now.
And actually I think our labor rate now is $145/hr and the Volvo dealer we're joined with is $180/hr but we're also a union shop so of course we have higher benefits that the customer pays for lol.
And actually I think our labor rate now is $145/hr and the Volvo dealer we're joined with is $180/hr but we're also a union shop so of course we have higher benefits that the customer pays for lol.
Kalifornia lol, would u trust someone to touch your car who cant spell the state they live in????
jus bustin
06-30-2008 | 03:45 PM
#45
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1
Timing chain tensioner gasket material
What is the new gasket made out of?
I am going to buy a new tensioner and put its internals into the old one, and I will make a gasket to work with it all. I'll make a gasket because the new "Kit" gasket will not match up with the old tensioner.
Does the tensioner come apart easily, or is it a PITA that could possibly break while doing it?
Thanks!
I am going to buy a new tensioner and put its internals into the old one, and I will make a gasket to work with it all. I'll make a gasket because the new "Kit" gasket will not match up with the old tensioner.
Does the tensioner come apart easily, or is it a PITA that could possibly break while doing it?
Thanks!
07-01-2008 | 12:36 AM
#46
07-01-2008 | 08:30 AM
#47
Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 45
What is the new gasket made out of?
I am going to buy a new tensioner and put its internals into the old one, and I will make a gasket to work with it all. I'll make a gasket because the new "Kit" gasket will not match up with the old tensioner.
Does the tensioner come apart easily, or is it a PITA that could possibly break while doing it?
Thanks!
I am going to buy a new tensioner and put its internals into the old one, and I will make a gasket to work with it all. I'll make a gasket because the new "Kit" gasket will not match up with the old tensioner.
Does the tensioner come apart easily, or is it a PITA that could possibly break while doing it?
Thanks!
And as for the general topic of this thread and my older thread was linked to earlier:
After my water pump was replaced and the mech simply cleaned the internal parts of my tensioner, after a couple weeks or so the tensioner seems to have gotten full function back. My tick is gone, even with the worn guides I had talked about in that previous thread. Unless something changes, I'll be leaving my current guides in place. Right after the work, it still ticked for a while and I thought for sure I'd still need the guides replaced. As of now, I have no plans to do the guides.
Definitely try to just do the tensioner or (if your's is an old style tensioner) replace the old internals with new plunger/spring from a new one as a first step. If just cleaning the older varnished parts from my old one fixed my tensioner function/ticking, new internals parts will be even better.
God I love the VQ. What a great engine.
-DPF
07-02-2008 | 06:22 PM
#48
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 585
From: London, ON, CANADA
Just the red RTV sealant in the tube. Scrape off the old, apply a bead of new. It's in the FSM. I'll double check on it. As for how easy it comes apart, that depends. Usually you have to be careful not to let them come apart (put the pin in the hole to hold the plunger back and be very careful so it doesn't come apart and pieces go down in the tensioner access port. When my tensioner was pulled, the mech couldn't get the thing apart, he had to work it for a while as it was pretty seized up. He got it apart and cleaned the varnished residue off. Then just put it back together.
And as for the general topic of this thread and my older thread was linked to earlier:
After my water pump was replaced and the mech simply cleaned the internal parts of my tensioner, after a couple weeks or so the tensioner seems to have gotten full function back. My tick is gone, even with the worn guides I had talked about in that previous thread. Unless something changes, I'll be leaving my current guides in place. Right after the work, it still ticked for a while and I thought for sure I'd still need the guides replaced. As of now, I have no plans to do the guides.
Definitely try to just do the tensioner or (if your's is an old style tensioner) replace the old internals with new plunger/spring from a new one as a first step. If just cleaning the older varnished parts from my old one fixed my tensioner function/ticking, new internals parts will be even better.
God I love the VQ. What a great engine.
-DPF
And as for the general topic of this thread and my older thread was linked to earlier:
After my water pump was replaced and the mech simply cleaned the internal parts of my tensioner, after a couple weeks or so the tensioner seems to have gotten full function back. My tick is gone, even with the worn guides I had talked about in that previous thread. Unless something changes, I'll be leaving my current guides in place. Right after the work, it still ticked for a while and I thought for sure I'd still need the guides replaced. As of now, I have no plans to do the guides.
Definitely try to just do the tensioner or (if your's is an old style tensioner) replace the old internals with new plunger/spring from a new one as a first step. If just cleaning the older varnished parts from my old one fixed my tensioner function/ticking, new internals parts will be even better.
God I love the VQ. What a great engine.
-DPF
Last edited by vilmaxima; 07-02-2008 at 06:24 PM.
08-21-2008 | 11:02 AM
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