I just installed D2 coilovers and I am in need of a new alignment. I just changed my axles also. The G35 wheels I have on now only work with the camber set as negative as it can put on the knuckle adjustment. I am getting some 17" wheels with a better offset that will allow the wheel to sit more inside the fender. Will I want to run the OEM camber specs given the position of my axles with this current drop? Toe should always remain the same, right?
Here is a pic of the car now:


Here is a pic of the car now:


Former Vendor
why would you the wheels to be less flush? anyways, i would say always try to get within factory specs. to should always be in spec.
Even when your 3" lower and your axles are set at a new position. Factory setting 3" lower would have to much camber. Won't that eat away your CV joints?
Senior Member
Quote:
You are going to eat axles any ways man thats just part of being low.Originally Posted by MAXecutive
Even when your 3" lower and your axles are set at a new position. Factory setting 3" lower would have to much camber. Won't that eat away your CV joints?
Former Vendor
your cv joints are in jeopardy no matter what when you are lowered past a certain point (3" is not that serious). thats just something you have to live with.
fatory specs are numbers, not positions. i.e. factory specs may be 0* camber, 0* toe (example). after lowering you should try to adjust your suspension back to those numbers.
the damage to your suspension geometry is already done. the tweaks you are talking about are on a whole nother level (advanced suspension i.e. track racing) that is beyond me and i dont think you should be too concerned with. i would just focus on getting your tires planted square on the ground to reduce tire wear.
fatory specs are numbers, not positions. i.e. factory specs may be 0* camber, 0* toe (example). after lowering you should try to adjust your suspension back to those numbers.
the damage to your suspension geometry is already done. the tweaks you are talking about are on a whole nother level (advanced suspension i.e. track racing) that is beyond me and i dont think you should be too concerned with. i would just focus on getting your tires planted square on the ground to reduce tire wear.
Senior Member
i would advise staying within the nominal front camber settings for even, and reduction of tire wear. your total toe should be within factory spec and if not, they can easly adjust that. the rears they can't really do much. i just got my alignment w/ my ksports and my total rear toe was off by .17 degrees but nothing to big.
Former Vendor
rear = unadjustable
i wont even pay for a 4 wheel alignment. if they try to sell it to you leave (unless you're just curious).
i can't wait to see what my specs are. i'm way out of the "able to get in spec" range. right now i'm probably close to double digit camber. lol.
i wont even pay for a 4 wheel alignment. if they try to sell it to you leave (unless you're just curious).
i can't wait to see what my specs are. i'm way out of the "able to get in spec" range. right now i'm probably close to double digit camber. lol.
Senior Member
Quote:
i wont even pay for a 4 wheel alignment. if they try to sell it to you leave (unless you're just curious).
i can't wait to see what my specs are. i'm way out of the "able to get in spec" range. right now i'm probably close to double digit camber. lol.
i was in the double digit camber area prior to the alignment and my god, never doing that again. tore my tires to shreds. still running on the same ones though Originally Posted by BLACKonBLACK98
rear = unadjustablei wont even pay for a 4 wheel alignment. if they try to sell it to you leave (unless you're just curious).
i can't wait to see what my specs are. i'm way out of the "able to get in spec" range. right now i'm probably close to double digit camber. lol.

but good thing is, i only paid $25 for 4 wheel alignment!

Former Vendor
what most people don't realize is camber results more in uneven tire wear more than fast tire wear. toe is the culprit for eating up tires.