Help with buying at a dealership...
06-17-2008, 11:17 AM
#1
Help with buying at a dealership...
**UPDATE**
Here is the link to the car with pics -- Also, price is lower than what was advertised. It looks pretty clean, with the exception of the worn steeringh wheel/shifter. Good news is I have a PERFECT 98 SE steering wheel to replace it IF I get the car.
http://www.suzukiofelmhurst.com/used...seHistory=true
Here's the situation.
I've had my 1995 Maxima GLE s/ automatic for the past 3 years, and finally came to my senses that it hasn't been EXACTLY what I wanted. So, before I drop any money into the 1995 to get it fixed up, I'd rather purchase a Maxima that I actually want. After months of searching, I finally got a hit.
1997 Nissan Maxima SE -- Fully loaded blk/blk leather, 5 speed, 120k
That has always been my dream Maxima, but they are so hard to find in good condition at a reasonable price, AND within reasonable driving distance. Since I live in the middle of Iowa, that doesn't help either. The car I located was a recent trade in over the weekend, and is located in Elmhurst, IL. I jumped on the car so quickly, nobody at the Suzuki dealership seemed to know what I was talking about until the salesman over the phone actually went and found the car on the lot.
The salesman went out and inspected the car first hand, and found no rust on the body/rocker panels/wheel wells. The paint looked very good for an 11 year old car, and the only body flaw was a small, touched-up scratch on the rear passenger door. No major or minor rips/tears/wear in the interior, no leaks, runs perfectly quiet, etc. I asked about the previous owner, and he had no knowledge since they just put the car on the lot.
I've recently carfaxed/autochecked the Maxima, and it comes clean. No accidents/wrecks/thefts. No problems AT ALL. I found it was a 2 owner car, and it seemed to me that 2 adults owned the car. The first owner, owned in NH, drove the car a whopping 35k in the first year. Probably all highway miles or work/business trips. Owned till about 70k until 2001. Second owner,car was transferred to IL, drove the car to 120k until 2008. Everything checks out correctly.
Now here's the deal. I've never actually had the experience with dealing with used cars through a dealer. They are currently asking $4,450. Any tips/suggestions before I go over there to help my chances of landing an awesome deal?
Here is the link to the car with pics -- Also, price is lower than what was advertised. It looks pretty clean, with the exception of the worn steeringh wheel/shifter. Good news is I have a PERFECT 98 SE steering wheel to replace it IF I get the car.
http://www.suzukiofelmhurst.com/used...seHistory=true
Here's the situation.
I've had my 1995 Maxima GLE s/ automatic for the past 3 years, and finally came to my senses that it hasn't been EXACTLY what I wanted. So, before I drop any money into the 1995 to get it fixed up, I'd rather purchase a Maxima that I actually want. After months of searching, I finally got a hit.
1997 Nissan Maxima SE -- Fully loaded blk/blk leather, 5 speed, 120k
That has always been my dream Maxima, but they are so hard to find in good condition at a reasonable price, AND within reasonable driving distance. Since I live in the middle of Iowa, that doesn't help either. The car I located was a recent trade in over the weekend, and is located in Elmhurst, IL. I jumped on the car so quickly, nobody at the Suzuki dealership seemed to know what I was talking about until the salesman over the phone actually went and found the car on the lot.
The salesman went out and inspected the car first hand, and found no rust on the body/rocker panels/wheel wells. The paint looked very good for an 11 year old car, and the only body flaw was a small, touched-up scratch on the rear passenger door. No major or minor rips/tears/wear in the interior, no leaks, runs perfectly quiet, etc. I asked about the previous owner, and he had no knowledge since they just put the car on the lot.
I've recently carfaxed/autochecked the Maxima, and it comes clean. No accidents/wrecks/thefts. No problems AT ALL. I found it was a 2 owner car, and it seemed to me that 2 adults owned the car. The first owner, owned in NH, drove the car a whopping 35k in the first year. Probably all highway miles or work/business trips. Owned till about 70k until 2001. Second owner,car was transferred to IL, drove the car to 120k until 2008. Everything checks out correctly.
Now here's the deal. I've never actually had the experience with dealing with used cars through a dealer. They are currently asking $4,450. Any tips/suggestions before I go over there to help my chances of landing an awesome deal?
Last edited by tcaughey; 06-18-2008 at 09:47 AM.
06-17-2008, 11:35 AM
#2
1. Use Kelly Blue Book ( http://www.kbb.com ), NADA ( http://www.nadaguides.com/home.aspx?l=1&w=28&p=0&f=5000 ), Edmunds ( http://www.edmunds.com/ ), and Auto Trader ( http://www.autotrader.com/ );
2. Find out, in general, what it's worth and what similar cars are selling for;
3. Come up with a price you're willing to pay and make an offer.
4. Don't budge from that number unless you're completely comfortable with the counter-offered price.
5. If you're asked to go higher and you're not on the same page walk away.
Bottom line... and this is really the best advice one can give. It works for cars and for women...
Never fall in love until you get her home. Always be willing and be prepared to walk away.
2. Find out, in general, what it's worth and what similar cars are selling for;
3. Come up with a price you're willing to pay and make an offer.
4. Don't budge from that number unless you're completely comfortable with the counter-offered price.
5. If you're asked to go higher and you're not on the same page walk away.
Bottom line... and this is really the best advice one can give. It works for cars and for women...
Never fall in love until you get her home. Always be willing and be prepared to walk away.
Last edited by Turbobink; 06-17-2008 at 12:35 PM.
06-17-2008, 11:49 AM
#3
Turbobink said it right, dont fall in love with the car. Act like you dont even care if you get the car. talk bad about it, like maxima's have problems with starters/injector/coil packs, make up stuff if you want 
.
.
06-17-2008, 12:05 PM
#4
1. Use Kelly Blue Book ( http://www.kbb.com ), NADA ( http://www.nadaguides.com/home.aspx?l=1&w=28&p=0&f=5000 ), Edmunds ( http://www.edmunds.com/ ), and Auto Trader ( http://www.autotrader.com/ );
2. Find out, in general, what it's worth and what similar cars are selling for;
3. Come up with a price you're willing to pay and make an offer.
4. Don't budge from that number unless you're completely comfortable with the counter-offered price.
5. If you're asked to higher and you're not on the same page walk away.
Bottom line... and this is really the best advice one can give. It works for cars and for women...
Never fall in love until you get her home. Always be willing and be prepared to walk away.
2. Find out, in general, what it's worth and what similar cars are selling for;
3. Come up with a price you're willing to pay and make an offer.
4. Don't budge from that number unless you're completely comfortable with the counter-offered price.
5. If you're asked to higher and you're not on the same page walk away.
Bottom line... and this is really the best advice one can give. It works for cars and for women...
Never fall in love until you get her home. Always be willing and be prepared to walk away.
also check under the front bumper for rust of the radiator support, this can be bad and cost 500 bucks easy. If it is bad, take 500 off and say you will take it.
06-17-2008, 12:14 PM
#5
4k is what I would pay for that max. And black on black is what I always wanted in my 4gen but could never find one. But yeah put your foot down and say this is how much I'm going to give you so take it or leave it!
06-17-2008, 12:38 PM
#6
Forgot to mention it is bone stock--
NADA -- $5225 for clean retail
KBB -- $5800 for Excellent retail
Edmunds -- $4800 for Clean retail, $3500 for the true market value
It currently sits at $4,450 on the lot. Looks like they priced it right between the Edmunds pricing. Looks like my only hope is to find defects to carve the price down. Good tip MaxGordon7, that might come in handy. It is kind of funny that we all hope for defects when purchasing a car to get the price down. Thanks for you advice Turbobink, I'll keep every word in mind. Any other tips??
NADA -- $5225 for clean retail
KBB -- $5800 for Excellent retail
Edmunds -- $4800 for Clean retail, $3500 for the true market value
It currently sits at $4,450 on the lot. Looks like they priced it right between the Edmunds pricing. Looks like my only hope is to find defects to carve the price down. Good tip MaxGordon7, that might come in handy. It is kind of funny that we all hope for defects when purchasing a car to get the price down. Thanks for you advice Turbobink, I'll keep every word in mind. Any other tips??
06-17-2008, 12:41 PM
#7
take the salesman with you to look at the car and ask to open up the hood, unscrew the engine top? and look inside and whether or not it looks bad say it does, that theres gunk built up in their and it could spell trouble in the future. then lean down and look under the transmission, most maximas after 120k miles start to leak from the RMS, if it looks shiny then it most likely is leaking from there and make a big deal about it. then another common problem/sign of wear after that many miles are the axles. usually the boots are ripped by then and some gunk has spewed out already, make a big deal about that.
those are three big things most salesman dont know too much about. theyre going to feed you crap like you came there to feast on it. feed it right back.
basically try to find any little thing you dont like about it and exaggerate it. i doubt they even gave the previous owner more than 1G for it, especially if it was a trade in. if the signs i talked about are present and maybe a few others and you play the car down like it might not be worth it, i;m confident you could drive out of there with it for $3500 cash.
those are three big things most salesman dont know too much about. theyre going to feed you crap like you came there to feast on it. feed it right back.
basically try to find any little thing you dont like about it and exaggerate it. i doubt they even gave the previous owner more than 1G for it, especially if it was a trade in. if the signs i talked about are present and maybe a few others and you play the car down like it might not be worth it, i;m confident you could drive out of there with it for $3500 cash.
06-18-2008, 09:48 AM
#11
Awesome advice guys, thanks to everyone. The dealer finally posted the car on the inventory on their website, AND good news (i hope), the price is lower than I originally found. 4500 down to 4000. This could be good or bad, considering the condition/mechanicals of the car.
and u take it now... reason they lowered it prolly had it there for a bit and want ot get it of the lot.. if it drives great, no leaks, 4k is a great price for that.
06-18-2008, 11:13 AM
#14
yea showing cash to a car salesman has a much more significant effect than you would think. also, dont say you drove from Iowa to get it. dont act excited about it (even though you say you already have told them). constantly remind them that it has 122k on it - even though you know that is low mileage for a maxima, most people, especially people who drive american cars, think that is old-age.
also, point out how ****ing ugly that fake wood trim is, and how you are going to have to "pay to have it removed".
and yea like rex said, look over the entire car and point out all the things that are wrong with it. check ALL LIGHTS and sunroof, cd player, tires, blinker/brake light bulbs, window motors, etc.
- MAKE SURE ALL BODY PANELS LINE UP. check in the hinge area for the front passenger and drivers side doors (to check if the unibody screws have been tampered with)
- check under the hood, and everywhere else, for the OEM stickers
- look inside crankcase for oil residue
- check the tranny fluid
- take out the airfilter and see how dirty it is
- drive in circles, and cut the wheel left to right to left to right (listen for clicking)
- bounce on each corner of the car to test the suspension
- MAKE SURE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS NOT CUT (will show up in pos II in the ignition). even if its not lit, run the codes to check for knock sensor. that will cut a good $200 off the price.
- check upholstry on B pillar and roof lining for water damage from leaking sunroof
and considering the fact that this car was raised in NH, it most likely has rusting issues. you could use that as the biggest asset in the negotiation.
also, point out how ****ing ugly that fake wood trim is, and how you are going to have to "pay to have it removed".
and yea like rex said, look over the entire car and point out all the things that are wrong with it. check ALL LIGHTS and sunroof, cd player, tires, blinker/brake light bulbs, window motors, etc.
- MAKE SURE ALL BODY PANELS LINE UP. check in the hinge area for the front passenger and drivers side doors (to check if the unibody screws have been tampered with)
- check under the hood, and everywhere else, for the OEM stickers
- look inside crankcase for oil residue
- check the tranny fluid
- take out the airfilter and see how dirty it is
- drive in circles, and cut the wheel left to right to left to right (listen for clicking)
- bounce on each corner of the car to test the suspension
- MAKE SURE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS NOT CUT (will show up in pos II in the ignition). even if its not lit, run the codes to check for knock sensor. that will cut a good $200 off the price.
- check upholstry on B pillar and roof lining for water damage from leaking sunroof
and considering the fact that this car was raised in NH, it most likely has rusting issues. you could use that as the biggest asset in the negotiation.
06-21-2008, 10:50 AM
#15
on 97 update
wow that looks great. nice and ripe as far as miles go. i wish i had leather power seats. and its a five speed. anndd it has the fogs installed.
again check over all the little things and then the major most common mechanical things. if the price is lower like you said it seems like a good deal if there arent any major problems.
good luck with it! you've got my thumbs up
again check over all the little things and then the major most common mechanical things. if the price is lower like you said it seems like a good deal if there arent any major problems.
good luck with it! you've got my thumbs up
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