Ok, will do that in a second.


As of now: (I am looking at FSM page EC-9)

The connection from + battery terminal to fuse 57 has continuity.

The connection from fuse 57 to the ECCS pin 3 relay has continuity.

The connection from the ECCS relay pin 5 to ECU pin 72 has continuity with the IGN switch on.

The connection from the ECCS relay pin 5 to ECU pin 67 has no continuity with the IGN switch on.



Would you suggest trying to bypass the IGN switch(hotwire essentially) to try to rule that out?

 

67 and 72 share the same wire so do w/e you want to send power to it.

 

So you are thinking that since pin 67 has no continuity that the ecu isnt getting power?

 

That makes sense to me, 2 wires needed to power into the transistor and give an output of 1 telling the ecu to send signal for the spark plugs and fuel injectors

 

Yea, tap pin 67 to pin 72 and see if it starts. Make sure you cut 67 and do it, if there is a short, you don't wanna short anything else.

 

Kev, I just wanna thank you for your help. I will try this tomorrow, its been a long day. Thanks again man. Ill let you know how it turns out.

 

Alright so I decided to test more wires before I started cutting things. Here is how I stand so far.

Green = tested and good
Red = Tested and bad or unsure or result




Any ideas?

 

Looks to me like your relay failed. Swap in one from a functional circuit and try again.

 

Two things, either the ignition switch circuit or relay circuit. Have fun

 

This is almost exactly what i though it was when i started reading this thread. I know this has to suck. Good luck bro.

 

I tested the relay by putting it in the Fog Light location, and it works ok. I also tested it by supplying 12V to pins 1 and 2, and checking resistance across 3 and 4, no resistance.

I am currently trying the trouble diagnosis in the FSM for the power supply.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

Alright.

All of the ECU grounds and power wires are fine, they are getting the correct V/gnd. Apparently my first test was wrong.



I decided to test ECU pin #20, the IGN signal. According to the FSM, the pin should read no voltage in the ON position, and should read battery V in the START position.

Well, I read battery V in the ON position, and about 1.5-2V in the start position.

Any ideas?

 

If the ecu is getting power, then the CEL light should come on. Swap the ignition switch I guess?

 

just a suggestion might have already been said but i would check pin #25,32,116,108,124 to see if it is grounded properly. im sure some of them are tied in together. all of those are eccs ground on a 97. just out of curiousity what year do you have???

you said in a earlier post that your cel doesnt come on when you turn on to acc right?? so your ecu is deffently not getting the power. when i did my EU PnP harness it did the same exact thing. just kept turning over. i never did find a remedy for it but i strongly belive its a power wire or a ground that is causeing you not to get power to your ecu.

hope you figure it out kyle. good luck.

 

I am a 97.

I did check all of the GNDs too, all of them are good grounds.

Last I checked the CEL did not come on. I will check again tomorrow, and see if it shows anything.

Its possible that even though the ECU is getting power...the ECU is what fried(cause again I did smell burnt electronics when this first occurred).

Then again a bad IGN switch could cause the CEL to act weird too, considering they are tied together.

Ill see if I can get a hold of another IGN switch.,

Thanks Kev and Locknuts.

 

I would check the ign switch and replace the ecu. You need auto one?

 

Yeah, its a 97 auto. The local junk yard has one, I just need to get out there and get it. Hopefully it wont rain tomorrow like it did today...but as you know its FL and the weather can be crazy.

If I dont get one, Ill let you know.

 

I hope this story has a happy ending =)

 

Yea I hope so too.

 

So I am at work and get this call from Kyle.

He screams his car is running, so it was a happy ending after all.

I want to thank everyone that was involved with helping him and I through this, he did most of the work as I have injuries right now that prevent me from getting to physical.

He will be on later most definetly

 

Sounds good, I wonder what it was

 

Yeah listen to the post *****...

Anyhow, it started, I had to jump it, and probably will have to again, because the battery is so drained. I dont know why it started now, and didnt any other time...

Thanks again pmohr, Kev and locknuts for helpin out.

 

so out of curiousity what was the problem? ign switch or ecu or both??

 

I have no idea...I didnt replace anything, it just decided that it wanted to start, thats all.

 

Ok, so it drove for about a total of 45 seconds then died again. Ive been sick with mono, strep and bad heart burn for the last 3 weeks so I havent touched it. However, here is what we are looking at right now. I still have no idea what the issue could be.

Here is how we stand now:

Cranks but doesnt turn over
No fuel spray when crank
No spark when crank
CEL doesnt light up when key is in IGN or when I try to pull the codes.

This is what I know:

All fuses and relays are good
All ECU grounds are good
All ECU power wires are good
The ECCS relay and fuse and all associated wires are ok.
The ECU is good(I have a spare and I tested it. Thanks kev for the help)

The only anomaly I ever found was when I tested the Start signal wire. According to the FSM, it should read 0V when the key is on ACC or ON and it should read 12V when on START. Well, when I tested it, I read 12V when the key was in the ON position, and only read around 3V when it was on START.

Any ideas???

 

bumping it to the top, because the newbie posts in here are horrible

we should try a new ignition switch, only problem is we need a new key with it.

 

The electrical part of the ignition switch is only 30 bucks and you don't need a new key.

 

ah didn't know that, I thought it was all one unit good to know.

 

Ok is it just me or do I see nothing in the FSM about troubleshooting the ignition switch? Its not in the index, and its hardly talked about in the 'starting system' section of the EL file. The only mention of ECU pin number 20(starter signal) is in the ECU diagnosis and diagram...any tips?

 

 

No I emailed you. Told you I would send it out. I did. 10 am. And then you file a paypal claim against me, not even 36 hours after you pay? Your kidding right?

Putting that aside, Im not discussing your blunder in my thread.



I am going to the junkyard in the morning, I am going to pull an IGN switch. Does anyone know if the switch from the 95-96 and 98/99 are the same?

 

Should be the same across all years.

 

Thanks a bunch man, Im hoping this could be the issue...

 

my apologies sorry for some reason email went to spam folder for no reason.

 

any updates

 

hey kyle just out of curiousity how are those two grounds on the upper manifold look? maybe try a diffrent ground? iirc you have it on your timing cover

 

I pulled the IGN switch this morning. It is fine. I took it apart, and there is no circuitry in it, its just metal contacts with raised surfaces.

Locknuts, the grounds are ok. They are bolted into the UIM with their own ground wire running to the gnd on the battery.

Unless something happens today or tomorrow then Monday I am taking it to a mechanic friend and have him look at it. Time to get it towed. Again...